front jacks????

[the hunter]

so i was out spring cleaning my tear getting ready for this years trips and as we were doing it i noticed it was swaying a bit as we were climbing in and out and stuff and thought bout front jacks what do you think ??? oh by the way did not have the wheel on the jack and both rear jacks were down ...
thanks for your input

[Redneck Teepee]

I put 2 on mine just because and it seems to stabilize pretty good. My rear axle is so far back that the rear is stable enough with out any jacks.

[GuitarPhotog]

I just use the tongue jack in the front and two screw-jack stabilizing jacks in the back. I don't worry so much about the wiggles, but need to have the galley level for cooking.

<Chas>

[working on it]

I never unhooked from the truck this weekend (getting lazy in my old age?)... despite the slight up-angle (feet towards the truck) while sleeping, it worked great for me. I didn't have to use the stabilizers or attach the tongue jack; it was steady as a rock.

[Shadow Catcher]

We do not use jacks other than the tongue jack. We are a bit over weight on the ball and so no danger of tipping backward. I use http://www.lynxlevelers.com under the wheels and with a three point system it is easy to set up.

[aggie79]

I just use the tongue jack in the front and two screw-jack stabilizing jacks in the back. I don't worry so much about the wiggles, but need to have the galley level for cooking.

<Chas>

We have the same setup as you.

We back into the space. After unhooking the TD. I lower the front jack so the TD is slightly out of level (with the galley end high). Then I level the galley end side to side. Lastly, I raise the front jack so the teardrop is level front to back. With this three point stance plus the trailer tires, we don't get the wiggles.

[grantstew8]

I just use the tongue jack in the front and two screw-jack stabilizing jacks in the back. I don't worry so much about the wiggles, but need to have the galley level for cooking.

<Chas>

My plan precisely; I've two jacks from the original caravan to install and I'll just the jockey wheel at the front. If the wheel is not "man" enough I'll go down to the local scrap yard and get a car jack. I'll weld/bolt on a receiver on the tongue so the top of the jack locates nicely and won't slip.

Good plan Chas

[working on it]

I never unhooked from the truck this weekend (getting lazy in my old age?)... despite the slight up-angle (feet towards the truck) while sleeping, it worked great for me. I didn't have to use the stabilizers or attach the tongue jack; it was steady as a rock.

However, if I had wanted to level the trailer (if situated on a flat pad at a campsite), I would've attached the tongue jack, lowered the nose about an inch, then release the "bar-clamp stabilizers" (which support up to 600lbs each) on the rear corners.

• 

  BAR-CLAMP STABILIZER

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Their design is such that they slide down to rest the feet on the ground, and lock in place. Then I return to the tongue jack, and raise the nose until the bubble-level indicates that it is level (usually, about the inch I had lowered it). At that point, the trailer is supported at 5 points: 2(rear-stabilizers), 2(sides-tires), 1(front-jack).

STABILIZERS rear/TIRES middle/JACK front

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I have not had to use this system on un-level ground, yet, but I have tested it. I use the same procedure (the "inch" may be in multiples) for fore and aft levelling, but for side to side, or four corner levelling, I carry an old bumper jack from my Chevelle (shown in my avatar),

CHEVELLE JACK (re-painted since photo)

Photo225m3.JPG (111.79 KiB) Viewed 677 times

which I use to raise the sides or rear up to 18" over normal height. Once level, I can drop the stabilizers down (up to 30" of variable adjustment) to the ground. I carry 4 barbell weights along, which I can use as additional base pads for the jack or stabilizers (if not, then to weigh down the canopy, if I choose). If more levelling or bracing material is needed (doubtful, since I'm not off-roading), I have additional treated 2"x*8 lumber (used as partitions in the bed of the truck), which can easily be temporarily pressed into service. I figured that I needed to cover all the bases, just in case, so that's why the stabilizers are so long.

[halfdome, Danny]

I stopped putting levelers on my teardrops since we never used the difficult things.
I simply do a 3 point level, (1) the tongue wheel jack (2) a portable scissor jack on the low wheel, (3) the wheel on the ground.
I welded the business end of a nut driver on the end of the jack and use a portable drill to raise and lower the scissor jack, simple and easy.
I use a Dexter torsion axle and don't get much noticeable bounce when entering or exiting the teardrop, it's never been an issue.
Danny

[tony.latham]

I'm in Danny's camp-spot on this one. I had a commercially built 'drop with rear jacks, and used them a couple of times before deciding they were a pain. I think they were an add-on option when I ordered it.

I didn't put jacks on my no-holds-barred 5x10' build last summer. I have a two-position bubble level on my tongue. When I pull into a spot, I eyeball the tear' for level and check the two bubbles. If I'm listing a bit, I pull out my two-piece 2x6 block ramp. They are loosely dowled together and the ends cut at 45º. The dowels protude out of the top piece and it's only used when I need 3" of blocking so it's married to the base when in use. When stacked they sorta look like a wide, flat-topped pyramid. If I need a bit of elevation on one side I use one block, if that doesn't do it I use both. The are quick and easy and require no muscle. I camp in the sticks quite a bit.

Here's the level I have on my tongue: http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-9615-0961 ... iler+level It's stuck on there with Premium PL.

I think some like the jacks because their axles are farther foreward than other teardrops. Mine is quite stable when unhitched.

Tony

[jonw]

I have two of the swing-down stabilizer jacks on the back and a crank-able swing-down jack on the tongue. The three points are very stable and like others have said, any side-to-side leveling is done with the back two jacks.

I just replaced the front jack with one with a foot instead of a wheel. I almost had the TD wander away from me on a few occasions, and the bounciness with the wheel was most annoying when getting in and out or moving around inside.

[mary and bob]

We can't use rear stabilizers because the rear section of the frame is enclosed within the body. I installed two of the flip down jacks near the front corners. This helps steady the trailer. Ours has a single 2" square tongue so may be more flexible than a V tongue trailer.

[rowerwet]

I just have a tongue jack, if I need more I carry a set of these

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I notice quite a bit movement getting in and out of my new build. Its the tongue jack swaying back and forth. I usually just leave the teardrop hitched to the car which greatly reduces the movement, but I want the option to unhitch and still have a completely stable trailer.

I have a pair of the Domar swing-down stabilizer jacks installed in the rear, and have another pair waiting to be installed towards the front. Something is better than nothing, especially for less than $20 per jack.

[Dale M.]

We have the same setup as you.

We back into the space. After unhooking the TD. I lower the front jack so the TD is slightly out of level (with the galley end high). Then I level the galley end side to side. Lastly, I raise the front jack so the teardrop is level front to back. With this three point stance plus the trailer tires, we don't get the wiggles.

Totally effective and simplest to setup.... My dad taught me this trick using camp trailers (14 to 17 footers) 50+ years ago...

He used to put a frying pan on stove with a little bit of water in it to use as a level....Later he attached a level on the tongue....

Dale