Ok here we go...PMF!

[Sheddie]

Jeez KC, that's getting a bit techo for us Kiwis. Down here if you can't fix it with a bit of no.8 fencing wire it ain't worth fixin.
Frank.

[KCStudly]

Roll that fence wire into a spring and you are good to go!

[dales133]

Lol thanks kc and Yea when I was a kid hardware shops probably sold more miles of number 8 wire than we had miles of roads... the duct tape of the 70 lol

[dales133]

I was thinking I might assemble the walls and add sections of foam then slice it once it's glued in situ

[dales133]

ok heres the shoping from my trip the otherday





made it home in one peice


25 and 35mm foam

[dales133]

i also just paid for my doors from littleguy, 980 bucks after foreign exchange charges, exchange rates and other bastards taking thier bit of my hard earned money, littleguy wernt to bad at 729 delivered its all the banks having thier pound of flesh.
so i sealed then put the first 2 coats of poly on the inside wall plys, and an initial coat of sealer and one coat of polyon the underside of the floor.

im working the next 4 days thus far but should be making saw dust soon.
i still realy need to get some proper plans but what is the usual front roof radius and set back of the door opening generaly?

[Sheddie]

Hi Dale,
Good to see progress.
One way to get a rough position for your door openings is to go and lie on your bed. Then sit up and swing your legs out and measure how far from the headboard you are sitting. Then you need to look at approximate axle position for your balance and make sure the doors will clear your guards.
As for the curve on the front, whatever looks good to you.
Frank

[dales133]

Hi Dale,
Good to see progress.
One way to get a rough position for your door openings is to go and lie on your bed. Then sit up and swing your legs out and measure how far from the headboard you are sitting. Then you need to look at approximate axle position for your balance and make sure the doors will clear your guards.
As for the curve on the front, whatever looks good to you.
Frank

Thanks Brian.
Got a few surprises up my sleeve for you guys yet ..... the gaurds will work in the position there at almost regardless of the door position and I have no issue with gaurds entering the cabin space.
It's more I've been so busy with the usual work rush before Xmas I'm not realy dedicating the time or head space to the design and build as I'd hoped prior to the "unfortionate religious interuption" that means everything is closed when I get to stop and think for 5 mins without phone calls and interuptions. I'd like th cut the front curve and door hole though.
Then it looks like I've made progress

[dales133]

finaly made some sawdust!




i need to add 300 mm or a foot and a bit to the hatch end but i haven't picked up the ply for it as yet.
dors arive any day and so do my lights, water filler and fantastic fan ect.
ive also got the iner flooring witch im going to use floating laminate floor but probly glue it down.
its wider than a 4 foot sheet so i thought id use this instead as it was on sale

[Plainsgirl]

Dale did you get your fan from the US? How much? Ta.

[dales133]

Not yet but my doors arived today! Just checked tracking on the fan and it's been through customs earlier today and is in transit to international destination [WHITE SMILING FACE]
Cost wise it was about 137 us plus 50 us shipping.
I'll send you a message with the sellers details when it arives if you like.
Pretty prompt service

[Sheddie]

Doors.
Frank

[Plainsgirl]

Dale did you get your doors from the US as well? I'm a bit surprised by the price of doors here in Aus.

[dales133]

Yea from little guy.about 760 us I think for a pair including shipping.
No way I'm gonna pay Dunn and watson almost 1400 for them

[Plainsgirl]

Thanks brah, AGREED. I also love the stabilizer thingos for your trailer. I haven't seen mine in in the flesh (in the steel?) ..they are the old scissor-lift lookalikes and I hope they are still awesome. I can't tell from the photo. I pick up the chassis in early Jan. CAN'T WANT TO GET STARTED!!