6x12 V-Nose Build

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Wed Dec 10, 2014 9:55 pm

Decided to start a new thread.

Here's my top-level plan:

1. Remove interior siding.
2. Rough electrical
3. Insulation
4. Reinstall interior siding.
5. Interior cabinets and counters.
6. Finish work

Anyone willing to chime in on the order?
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby pchast » Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:16 pm

Sounds right.... Adding a door or windows?
:thinking:
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:38 pm

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418268972.519132.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418268972.519132.jpg (86.21 KiB) Viewed 31547 times


Forgot the mandatory picture.

I've been assembling an array of stuff for over a year. Some is from the old camper, some is new.

Think "really cool tent in wheels".

I'll post more pics tomorrow. It's 8:30 and just leaving work.
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby lrrowe » Thu Dec 11, 2014 12:10 pm

Nice!
I especially like the TV.
I appreciate your posting as I am trying to decide on the window to buy for the door side. Yours is on the smaller size and high. I am wrestling with considering both of those options.
And the night picture looks sharp. I will have to do that also.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby hankaye » Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:40 pm

lrrowe, Howdy;

I'd rather have my windows a bit higher, so if anyone is looking in,
they see my smiling face instead of why I'm smiling, ... were it lower.

hank
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby lrrowe » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:00 pm

Agreed. But it takes away space for upper cabinet or shelf storage. But i am glad you said that. I have not cut my opening yet for my first of two windows. I will mock up the options (high or mid level) and see what it feels like.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:21 pm

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418339893.002350.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418339893.002350.jpg (126.97 KiB) Viewed 31477 times


Some interior pics.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418339873.158254.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418339873.158254.jpg (107.59 KiB) Viewed 31477 times


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418339853.350280.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418339853.350280.jpg (104.65 KiB) Viewed 31477 times


This is the new Drimax OSB. They ignored my request for plywood - special orders just upset them.

The panels are attached with screws and the trim is glued and stapled. When I went to pull the trim pieces I realize it's going to crack because the glue holds fast.

At this point I'm considering replacing the trim with 1/2" poplar and then filling the inset with 1/4" oak plywood. I don't have a source locally for the water-resistant OSB.
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6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:26 pm

Some random questions:

They run the luan across the roof down the middle only. I'm thinking of adding two more strips down each side for additional roof rigidity. Any pros or cons?


I have XPS sheets of insulation. Lots of threads and tips and opinions on the best method. I wanted to spray but the supplier doesn't recommend unless I can get the temp up to 50F for 24 hours.

I talked with a guy who said NOT to glue the insulation - just set in place as tight as possible. Fill the gaps with non-expanding foam. Any thoughts? He felt the glue would just cause issues. In fact, he recommended thin furring strips to put a small air space between the skin and the XPS sheets.
Last edited by abqlloyd on Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:28 pm

We had that window high for that reason - privacy. I have another window to install between the studs vertically but held off because designs are always in flux.
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby lrrowe » Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:40 pm

How about using silicone caulk or the foam in a can in the gaps between the roof supports and the skin?
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:31 pm

I think the idea is to not use glue or adhesive at all. I looked tonight and think I might buy a PVC lattice and use the strips as small spacers.
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:34 pm

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1418355136.404824.jpg
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Infrared quartz heater. I like the compact size and the zero clearance on the sides. Only three inches clearance on back. I can set in a shelf not take up too much space.
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby lrrowe » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:43 pm

abqlloyd wrote:I think the idea is to not use glue or adhesive at all. I looked tonight and think I might buy a PVC lattice and use the strips as small spacers.


Why is that? So the roof skin will move with temperature changes?
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby abqlloyd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:54 pm

I'm not sure. I think part is that adhesive traps moisture against the side, not allowing condensation a path. I wish I could spray foam.
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Re: 6x12 V-Nose Build

Postby Rainier70 » Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:03 pm

I did not consider gluing my insulation in for two reasons.

One to allow the skin to flex and move with both temperature and rough roads.

Two is probably the main one ...condensation. In looking at my ct's skin I noticed that it isn't sealed on the bottom and it isn't sealed on the side seams. The side seams (vertical) overlap from front to back, but on the back seam of each panel I could see light through the gaps between the screws. At first I thought I should seal those, but then I considered condensation and I didn't. Those gaps allow any moisture that migrates from the inside to the outside walls a path of escape. I am sure that no matter how I seal the inside that condensation will make its way in there. I wanted to keep that path for moisture out open.
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