Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby lrrowe » Fri Dec 12, 2014 7:21 pm

Congratulaltins on some great work! :wine:
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby CoventryKid » Fri Dec 12, 2014 8:15 pm

I like your style, Prof!

Keep up the great work! Your efforts and your pictures are VERY much appreciated!
Doug
Vancouver Island, BC

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GMC Savana Explorer Limited SE hightop conversion van
NEO NAVR 7x16 V-nose aluminum trailer now a comfortable travel trailer

Build: http://www.tusker-international.com/1-trlr-build.html
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby Prem » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:48 pm

:pictures: Ditto.

:thumbsup:
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby abqlloyd » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:56 pm

Looking good.
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby deeve » Sat Dec 20, 2014 11:36 am

Newbie subscribing. Looks interesting!!
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby professorkx » Sun Dec 21, 2014 8:58 pm

More progress this weekend, so thought I would post pictures.

I used 5mm underlayment from Home Depot for the ceiling. The first step was to cut the panels to length, then paint with two coats of bright white paint. Sorry, not pictures of this step, but since I just laid the panels on supports and painted, it wasn't anything special.

The hard part in laying out the ceiling was to determine length. I used a sacrificial panel and cut to 79 inches. This proved to be too long, as the panel length was beyond the start of the downward bend of the roof supports. So, I cut a 1 inch notch on 24 inch centers so the panel length at the supports was 77 inches. The notch method allowed the panels to lay flat against the insulation past the downward bend of the roof supports, and the notches helped center the panel on the supports. With the layout now set, it was time to mark my first official panel.

All four corners were marked for a 1 inch by 1 inch notch, with the 24 inch center marked to notch 2 inches wide and 1 inch deep. Once marked, I used a 1x2 to mark the location of the screws. I started at the center, then marked screws at 1 foot intervals. Using a 1x2 to mark my screw spots ensured that all of my screws were in the exact same locations on every panel.

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I also used my marking stick and marked the edge of each panel with screw points, as this helped in lining up the panels. Once I put a small dot for the screw locations, I cut out each notch.

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Since my wife is very petite, she isn't really a ton of help holding panels against the ceiling supports. So, I attached a 1x2 to a 2x4 to space away from the wall, and screwed the piece to one wall.

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Next, I put one end of the panel on the 2x4 and lifted the panel to the ceiling. Sandy then placed a small T board with a towel in the middle of the panel and secured the post tight against the floor. The towel allowed the panel to be moved around so I could fine tune the position. Trust me, that really is a T, but it looks like a straight post in this picture.

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Once the panel was in place, I predrilled the first hole and installed a self taping sheet metal screw. I predrilled each hole so the screw would go right into the steel without the risk of the panel moving around.

I had already cut a 1 1/2 inch piece from one of the panels that would be short that was used for each seam. I also marked the screw locations on the seam piece using the same board as I used to mark the panels so the screws in the seam are the same as the screws in the middle of the panel.

The entire ceiling installation took about 4 hours, as my steel ceiling supports were not straight. So, I used a vibrating saw to trim the edge of two of the panels. Essentially, I did not view the ceiling as one big puzzle, but rather as individual pieces that needed to be custom fit based upon metal ceiling support location. Since I was using a 1 1/2" seam piece, I just needed each panel to overlap each steel support on the edge of the panel.

I installed each light as I installed each panel, and took the time to cut the vent location. I am very pleased with the finished product.

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Again, ignore the stain on the panels, as this was just a test.

So far, we have completed the following:

1. Insulation installed
2. wiring complete
3. Two windows installed
4. Ceiling installed

Seems like a short list, but there is a lot of work in that list.

Next up are the following:

1. Paint the panels in the front that will be inside the cabinets. Paint color is white so the inside of the cabinets is bright.
2. Carpet the walls up to the kitchen area
3. Install the rubber floor (7.5x14 roll purchased on sale at Home Depot for $50)
4. layout cabinets and start planning cabinet work.
5. Build piece to fill the opening between the walls and ceiling. This might be carpeted wood, which I have done before, but not sure yet. I am waiting on this as it will be easier to install the upper cabinets without this piece in place, and then but the fill piece up to the cabinets.

Progress is slower than I want, but with cold temps, dry time for paint and glue is extended. Once I start the cabinets, all painting will be done in the shop before anything is installed, so progress should be faster...I hope. Riding season starts in just over two months, and the CT needs to be ready for camping.
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby Prem » Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:36 pm

:thumbsup: Nice ceiling!

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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby hankaye » Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:51 pm

professorkx, Howdy;

Been admiring your work and envious of your tools. I'm also thankful for your taking
the time to be complete with your 'How I did this" parts of your posts. Truly a gift
for a lot of us (I'll clump myself in there), that aren't used to the creative side of
getting things done.
Some of our folks have used aluminum flashing to span the gap from walls to celing,
here's a link to one, just food for thought...
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=56995&start=60

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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby lrrowe » Sun Dec 21, 2014 9:59 pm

Looking good!
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby Prem » Sun Dec 21, 2014 11:09 pm

My goal...

_____________________________________________
...is to live in a trailer.
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby professorkx » Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:20 pm

hankaye wrote:professorkx, Howdy;

Been admiring your work and envious of your tools. I'm also thankful for your taking
the time to be complete with your 'How I did this" parts of your posts. Truly a gift
for a lot of us (I'll clump myself in there), that aren't used to the creative side of
getting things done.
Some of our folks have used aluminum flashing to span the gap from walls to celing,
here's a link to one, just food for thought...
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=56995&start=60

hank


I am envious of those who used aluminum flashing, but that stuff is expensive to have sheered and bent, so I decided to used a less costly carpeted wood option...
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby professorkx » Mon Dec 22, 2014 2:22 pm

Prem wrote::thinking: Easy wall to ceiling cover:

http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image_page.php?album_id=964&image_id=57683


Yup, that is exactly what I have done in the past, but I usually carpet the wood to blend the look into the wall. Cheap and easy...
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby professorkx » Fri Dec 26, 2014 11:07 pm

I made some progress this week on the trailer. First, I wanted to lay down some white paint on the panels that would be inside the cabinets, as this will help make things bright when you are digging through cabinets for items. Here is the before picture for the work this week.

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Next, carpet needed to be installed on the interior walls. I've carpeted walls before, but always used contact cement. This time, I thought I would try indoor/outdoor carpet glue. This installs with a notched trowel, so a one step gluing process instead of applying contact cement to both surfaces. No reason this glue shouldn't hold up in the trailer, and it was very easy to use.

The finished product is often dictated by the prep work, and there was certainly some prep work needed on the walls before the carpet could be installed. When the trailer was built, the plywood panels were not installed so they touched, so there were gaps at every seam that the manufacturer covered with strips of luan. It would have helped if the gaps were even, but every gap had a taper. Since I didn't want to build a tapered fill piece, I had to make all of the gaps the same. I used a vibrating saw for this process, and quite frankly, this is one of the most useful tools on a job like this. Here is the one I use.

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I used a 1x2x24 to mark the section that needed to be cut by placing the board on the board at the bottom of the gap and drawing a line on the top board. Once marked, I cut with the vibrating saw held at an angle as I walked along the line. I had to be careful near the metal studs, but the vibrating saw is easy to control. Here is a picture of the finished product.

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Here is a picture of a partially filled gap.

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I won't need to fill this gap since this is between the upper and lower cabinets, so will be filled with a backsplash of some kind. I have some ideas on backsplash, but nothing set in stone yet.

with the gaps filled, it was time to setup my hanging jig. As mentioned previously, my wife is very petite, so does not handle weight well and is not near my 6'4" height. Using 1x2 pieces from Home Depot that were purchased for less than $1 each, I had a jig for less than four dollars.

The jig consisted of a top piece that was 12 feet long that was made from two 6 foot pieces with an 18 inch splice piece in the middle. I made two legs that were 78 inches long (wall height is 75 inches, so these will not stand up straight, which allows them to be wedged against the floor) that would attach to the top piece with one screw so they could pivot down into place. I also had the carpet rolled backwards so it would unroll as we lifted the entire 12 foot by 7 foot carpet section to put in place.

I should also mention that when I purchased the carpet, I had the folks at Home Depot (I used gray indoor/outdoor carpet that was a lot cheaper than boat carpet I have used in the past) cut two pieces 7 foot long so I didn't have to cut once I got home. they have a nice machine with a straight edge slot, so the cut would be close enough since I purchased an extra 8 inches that would need to be trimmed.

With my first roll of carpet on the floor of the trailer, I stapled the top rail of the jig to the top edge face of the carpet. You will understand why I stapled to the face when you look at the picture, but essentially, I needed the jig on the face of the carpet so it face away from the wall instead of against the wall. The jig put the carpet next to the ceiling, and I planned to just cut off the jig after the carpet was stapled in place. So, the process was to staple the jig on the carpet and collapse the legs so they were parallel with the top rail. Remember, the legs pivot on one screws so they could collapse and then be pivoted in place as I lifted the carpet into place.

Once the jig was stapled to the carpet, it was time to use a 1/8 notch trowel and lay down part number 6700 indoor/outdoor carpet glue. Quite frankly, it took longer to put glue on the walls than to put the actual carpet on the walls.

Oh yes, my windows are clam type windows, so removing the inside trim meant the window could fall onto the ground. Since I really didn't want to remove the windows from the hole, I taped the windows to the trailer skin, then taped the tape to the skin and the tape to the window. Yes, I used a lot of tape, but since the tape was less than $5, and the windows were almost $200, I was willing to throw away some tape to keep the windows in place during carpet installation.

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Yes, yes, I could have easily removed the windows, but it's about 27 degrees outside, and we wanted to work in warmth, so the window staying in place which allowed the trailer to stay warm with the radiator style heater we were using inside.

Ok, that's the process, now for some pictures....

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Applying glue

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Glue on entire wall up to the line that will be where the cabinets begin.

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Jig in place holding carpet in place. I stapled the carpet to the jig every 3-4 inches so the carpet didn't have a wrinkle. I also stapled the jig in place from one end to the other, again, so no wrinkles were formed.

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Another picture of the jig. Remember, the legs pivot on one screw, so they collapse. They would never fit inside the trailer if they didn't pivot. You can also see that I started by stapling the entire top edge. Then, I pressed the carpet against the wall down to the window, found the window opening with my fingers and stapled all straight edges. Last step was to cut the carpet for the window.

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Replace that blade often so it's always sharp. Blades are cheap, and there is no substitute for a sharp blade when cutting carpet. you want to cut it, not hack it off.

Once the window was cut, I installed the trim, as this made me feel better about taping the windows. next up, trim the floor.

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Here again, I smoothed the carpet to the floor, then stapled the carpet to the wall at the floor. I will be using base boards, so no one will ever see the staples. Oh yes, I used T50 staples and a Stanley electric staple gun, as staples for my air stapler only go down to 1/2 inch, which would not work with 3/8 plywood. The T50 staples worked just fine to hold things in place while drying.

The finished walls. I will take pictures from outside the trailer later, but I need the heat to dry the glue, and it's going to be 19 degrees tonight, so no pictures from the outside until later. You can also the the white panels in the kitchen area that I discussed earlier.

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Tomorrow, the floor gets installed....
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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby lrrowe » Fri Dec 26, 2014 11:13 pm

Your carpet looks good. I wanted to use that, but my wife objected, so some sort of paneling it is.
Bob

First Post on Purchase of Trailer: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=60722
Hot water infloor and radiator heating project:[url]http://www.tnttt.com/posting.php?mode=reply&f=54&t=62327[/

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Re: Professors 7x14 Toy Hauler

Postby Prem » Sat Dec 27, 2014 1:21 am

Nice job :EXP

For what it's worth: Carpet can be painted with latex with a roller if you would ever want a different color/smoother texture. (Did it once in a van conversion.)
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