Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Thu Apr 09, 2015 8:38 pm

Hatch arrived
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Sat Apr 11, 2015 9:37 pm

Put the Luan ceiling up today and primered it white. This looks much better than the plastic!

1x3 pine will cover up the gaps. I'm going to wait to put that up until I finish running wiring and cabinets.

I also painted the cabinets "Sheet Metal Gray". Forgot to snap a pic of those.

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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby nunrleft » Sat Apr 11, 2015 11:38 pm

Nice build. I originally was going to use the same plastic panels you were going to use. Because of your post I went with luann also.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:25 pm

Good choice.

Did the second coat of the sheet metal gray on the cabinets. I like it. Also painted the ceiling white.

Next up is installing the cargo door for the AC, the base cabinet, and the wiring.

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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:18 pm

Today I put the doors back on the cabinets. I'm really happy with the second coat of paint. The paint conditioner I used really helped eliminate brush strokes.

I then verified the AC unit fits through the door I got. It fits! Then I made a template for the door that I will cut out.

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I need to buy some sealant for the cargo door though. What does everyone recommend?
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Deediggler » Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:56 am

I like Sika products. I use Sikaflex 221. It comes in white black and translucent which is great.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:33 am

Deediggler wrote:I like Sika products. I use Sikaflex 221. It comes in white black and translucent which is great.


Okay. Is that what I'm going to want to install my cargo door with? I keep seeing people talk about butyl tape too.

I was thinking just a thick bead of sealant around the flange, then press it in to place.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:40 pm

Just called my local place. They have Sikaflex and proflex. I'll pick some up after work. Gotta get this cargo door installed.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby nunrleft » Tue Apr 14, 2015 1:48 pm

Any good polyurethane based caulk should work. I like Vulkem. Don't use silicone or latex caulk. They don't last.

My H&H trailer has the skin attached to the frame using a polyurethane caulk. I see a few spots that are done with butyl, but not many.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Deediggler » Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:09 pm

Rocky5000100 wrote:
Deediggler wrote:I like Sika products. I use Sikaflex 221. It comes in white black and translucent which is great.


Okay. Is that what I'm going to want to install my cargo door with? I keep seeing people talk about butyl tape too.

I was thinking just a thick bead of sealant around the flange, then press it in to place.


Butyl tape works too but if you're only screwing the cargo door to the aluminum skin I would use a caulking instead so that when it dries it will create a good bead no matter how tight the door is. Butyl tape works well but it never really "dries" so you need more backing to suck those screws in and squish that tape really well.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:51 pm

Cool. I picked up sikaflex 221 today. I took the leap and drilled my first holes through the skin. Thank god my dad borrowed holesaws from work for me because they're expensive!

I did the water fill and 30 amp hookup holes today. Tomorrow I will mount and seal them. Still waiting on the battery vent to arrive.

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I also made some holders for the water tanks to stop them sliding.

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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:09 am

Hey guys, question: I'm about to wire the Marinco 30 amp 3 wire inlet. I noticed the instructions call for 10-2 wire, however I purchased 12-2 wire. Will I be okay using 12-2 for the inlet to the converter connection or should I buy some 10-2 ?

I'm thinking I should buy the 10-2, seeing as how most 30amp shore power cords are 10-2/3.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby nunrleft » Thu Apr 16, 2015 9:27 am

You need 10/3. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amps. If you use 12 and are plugged in to a 30 amp supply and draw over 20 amps you run the risk of melting your wires causing a dangerous short or fire.
The 3 at the end of 10/3 is the number of wires in the casing. You need three wires for service; hot, neutral, and ground.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby Rocky5000100 » Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:10 am

nunrleft wrote:You need 10/3. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amps. If you use 12 and are plugged in to a 30 amp supply and draw over 20 amps you run the risk of melting your wires causing a dangerous short or fire.
The 3 at the end of 10/3 is the number of wires in the casing. You need three wires for service; hot, neutral, and ground.

Okay thanks. I don't want a fire.


And actually 10-2 and 12-2 do have 3 wires. 10-3 and 12-3 have 4 wires. It's weird haha.
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Re: Rocky5000100's 7x12 Toy Hauler Build

Postby bc toys » Thu Apr 16, 2015 10:42 am

10/2 or 12/2 is good for what you are using it for need code says 12 is good for 30 amps now 2011 was the change 12/2 comes with ground you can still use a 10/2 SO cable for shore power to be on safe side
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