You're moving right along there.
About silicone sealer; most people will recommend that you use a paintable caulk instead (... usually RV putty to bed, then caulk around the edges). The silicone won't take paint or glue, is incredibly difficult to fully remove, and does not stick well to itself once cured.
About pulling wires, you mentioned elsewhere that the insulation on the speaker wire you are using is soft, or gummy, making it unlikely to be able to pull thru the foam and asked if I had the same concern. All of my wiring has the harder style insulation (PVC?) and most of the larger wires have an extra outer jacket that makes them easier to pull.
About adhesion to foam; remember that the foam itself is the weak link. If you are seeing a fuzzy film of the foam stuck to the glue, then you are getting a good bond. You have to remember that the primary loading for the skin will be in shear, where the skin and foam are trying to slip past each other. When you consider the total area affected the strength is significant because it would have to fail all at once. When we test we tend to peel a small edge up (localized tension) and the joint fails like a zipper, a little at a time. So yes, we need to do a good job making sure that we have full coverage (unstuck areas can balloon in the wind and propagate), and we need to make sure that our edges are secured well (which is why we like to wrap the corners over and/or tuck them between the cabin and frame). I have found that a light scuff with sand paper goes a long way toward helping stuff grab the foam, especially on the printed side of the panel which tends to have more of a glaze on it.
Keep up the good work!
by Fred Trout » Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:07 pm 
