notre larme - Modified Gruman 2

[Strop]

Well I decided to sand down the edges along the high parts of the floor. Levelled it up ok.

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I also prepared the walls for fastening down drilling pocket holes every 150mm (6")

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It was also my intention to have a raised floor for storage underneath. So I am going to fix the walls then glue and screw a side support to the wall and also screw it into the floor. That should give me pretty massive connection to the floor and walls.

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I have 12 bolts holding floor to trailer.

Finally, intend to put glue on end of cupboards and through a combination of pocket screws and ordinary screws fix wall to cupboards bracing structure.

Laurie

[Strop]

Noseoil, forgot to add that I am doing the same with the side. My sides will be fibreglass panels that will end level with bottom of trailer chassis. I will then put trim and sealant to waterproof.

Plan anyway.

Laurie

[Strop]

Ok I am seeking some advice.

I got to a dry fit of my ceiling and was very happy. All looking good.

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I made a measuring mistake and I don't have enough space to fit in my insulation as planned. I am using Steve Fredericks method of doing the walls, ceiling & roof. I have place my spacers between the roofing spars in place and they are sitting about 4-5mm proud of the top of the wall. The building method would normally call for me to run along this edge with a belt sander to level them with the wall.

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What I have done is not made the slot the ceiling fits big enough. It is only 20mm deep, it should have been 25mm. 25mm with a 4mm ceiling sheet left me 20mm for insulation and spars 20mm x 30mm in size. The 20mm with a 4mm ceiling sheet leaves me 15mm for insulation and spars 15mm x 30mm in size. I don't think the insulation comes in 15mm sheets but will have to check on Monday. 10 & 20mm only I think. So what I was thinking of doing was leaving the spacers at their height so I can fit 20mm of insulation in and make the spars that little bit bigger

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The roof spars would also be trimmed to the correct size.

I would then have to fit the roof and use a router to trim it back to the sides. This would then leave me a gap of around 5mm around the side - which can be seen under my finger in the first photo.. I could then fill this with builders bog to make the side smooth.

This would then leave me with a problem with the hatch as the roof line back to the hatch would be raised slightly (4-5mm). I could then overcome this by placing two layers of ply on the outside of the hatch.

So, is it ok to use builders bog in this case?
Are spars 15mm x 36mm big enough if there is 15mm insulation available?
Do I gain anything by going to 20mm x 36mm spars if I can get 15mm insulation?
Can anyone see any other issues?

Edit: My roof spars are currently pine and measure 42mm x 38mm. I can put them through a thicknesses to make them 42mm x 15 or 20mm or have them 38mm x 15 or 20mm.

Thanks

Laurie

[dales133]

What are you claddi g the outside with?
I guess this would determine the gap issue.
15mm is probably be getting on the thin side

[Strop]

outside if fibreglass sheeting - pre made.

Laurie

[dales133]

So tbe fiberglass will cover the gap alright?

[dales133]

If so id fill the gap and go that way i reco

[Sheddie]

Hi Laurie, personally I would not go that thin with the spars. You get the most strength across a span with the spars on their edge, not on their side. That is with the bigger measurement vertical not horizontal making them wider won't add much support. I have 42mm x 20mm, the 42mm being the vertical dimension.
If you don't want to drop the ceiling height down, you could look at laminating a strip along the top of the walls to build them up to level with the top of the spars. Unfortunately this may mean a redesign of the hatch.
Keep up the good work it is looking nice.

[Strop]

What if I sacrifice weight for strength and use hardwood spars?

I have spars every 30cm .

Why do you need a lot of strength here anyway. If you are not planning to walk on it isn't their main purpose to hold the walls together?

Laurie

[Strop]

What if I sacrifice weight for strength and use hardwood spars?

I have spars every 30cm .

Why do you need a lot of strength here anyway. If you are not planning to walk on it isn't their main purpose to hold the walls together?

Laurie

[dales133]

Franks right mate and id use hardwood anyway.
I used 19x35 and 35x35 for the fan spars.
You could ad more but these spars stop the cabin from wracking and give the whole structure its strengh.
More than happy for you to call me if you like might be easier to help you.
If you can explain to me a few things we might be able to bounce some ideas.
Cheers dale

[Strop]

Ok before calling Dale. Both walls have a lip so the end of the spars sit on the lip.

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In the photo you can see the ceiling us sitting on the lip.

What about running a couple of pieces of steel across the edge of the spars. Would only need to be 20mm wide piece of flat on its side?

Laurie

[dales133]

So you only have 15mm from the ceiling to the outter wall edge wall

[Strop]

25mm.

I could make it 30 if I fill the gap with bog after putting the roof ply on.

Laurie

[dales133]

You could sikaflex a rip of bendy ply of masonite around the wall edge to make up the difference.
I recon it would be preferable to bog.
More flexable