The Poet Creek Express - Foamie Hybrid

[Atomic77]

The guys that restore the vintage hydro's use it all the time over epoxy. My crew chief told me about it, he's been using it over epoxy for awhile now in race conditions with complete success. I wouldn't have used it over mine if I didn't have people with years of experience using it.

[KCStudly]

I'll give it another look, thanks.

[Atomic77]

I just got off the phone with my crew chief who has been using it for a long time. Something he pointed out that I forgot to mention is, we use it over epoxy that has been de-blushed/sanded prior to application. Not sure if that makes a difference or not, but it's always sanded first.

[GPW]

“ It’s the Tooth... the Tooth !!! “

[KCStudly]

I have been trying my best to follow the West System recommended usage. I don't have hot water at the shop (unless I use one of the heaters to heat some up) so have been using cold bottled water and a greenie with paper towels to remove blush. Then if bonding over, a dry greenie to remove gloss. Where I have numbles that need removing and laps that need fairing I have used 100 grit.

I have to run right now but will be back later with more thoughts.

[Funluvin001]

You sir, are an artist and must posses the patience of Job!
I wish I had the time & patience you have with this build, and about a quarter of your craftsmanship skills!

Simply brilliant!

[KCStudly]

Why thank you funluvin, thank you very much, and welcome to the build.

Where did I leave off? Oh yeah, prep for paint and final finishing. Following the West System method I purchased a can of 410 Microlight filler thinking that this, combined with epoxy, would be good for filling the weave. Now I'm wondering if high build primer would be more efficient and cost effective.

If I follow the West System, they call for several coats of wet epoxy as a barrier coat on top of the filler coat, after sanding.

I really want to keep this simple. I know that sounds contradictory to doing epoxy and fiberglass to begin with, but I just don't see myself turning Karl's loft into a full blown spray booth. I would practically have to move out of the drape zone, cover over the windows, and find some way to vent the space w/o blowing overspray all down the front of the shop.

Graphics aren't a big concern as they will be simple tone on tone (light gray and lighter gray) scallops with long tapering darts, just a few at the floor and roof line, maybe two more on the roof, maybe one more down each side wall.

Water cleanup would be nice, too. So let's start the discussion at the simplest level that meets this criteria and see where we go from there. Something like Glidden Gripper and acrylic latex.

I like the results that Becky got using Interlux boat paint on the Sagwagon. IIRC she used epoxy (not poly or vinylester resin) and glass over wood. Interlux website says it is good on FRP and GRP but I did not see where it was specific to epoxy resin; I assume it is compatible. They offer both two part and single part products; single part would be nice because it adds an element of fool proofing.

Consider me clueless on materials compatibility... I know just enough to probably get it wrong other than sticking with a single manufactures "system", so feel free to offer your expert input... but keep in mind I am not a paint and body expert, far from it.

I wish I had the confidence and expertise to attempt a full automotive style paint job, but I don't, and at this stage of the project I don't want to go another 10 or 20/ct over budget buying coatings.

[KCStudly]

[Ned B]

“ It’s the Tooth... the Tooth !!! “

Ok Dr Yueh...

[Funluvin001]

Why thank you funluvin, thank you very much, and welcome to the build.

I've been lurking on here for a number of months and following this thread from almost day 1! (mine)

Where did I leave off? Oh yeah, prep for paint and final finishing. Following the West System method I purchased a can of 410 Microlight filler thinking that this, combined with epoxy, would be good for filling the weave. Now I'm wondering if high build primer would be more efficient and cost effective. <Snip>

Had you thought of using an automotive body filler or even a marine fairing compound?? Must easier and lighter than making it from epoxy, not to mention less costly!

I like the results that Becky got using Interlux boat paint on the Sagwagon. IIRC she used epoxy (not poly or vinylester resin) and glass over wood. Interlux website says it is good on FRP and GRP but I did not see where it was specific to epoxy resin; I assume it is compatible. They offer both two part and single part products; single part would be nice because it adds an element of fool proofing.

I''ve used interlux single part polyurethane on my boat, but much prefer the two-part paints like Ameron's Amershield. It may cost a little more (not much, here,) than Interlux, but provides a much more durable finish. There's no problem putting it on FRP or epoxy BUT I chose to prime first - with a epoxy based primer, which also provided an extra moisture barrier. Ameron claims it's not necessary but... Color me overkill when it comes to top-coats!! 10 years on and it still looks brand new, except where I've dinged it with rocks and whatnot. Simply amazing paint, and I don't say that lightly!

With that primer, you can literally use any paint, but if you want something that's as tough as nails, use a 2-part poly paint. 2 part marine epoxy primer is also very thick and not self levelling. Also, though it will eventually eat foam on the rollers, I use those cheap (but not the dollar store cheap!!) foam roller refills. At the first hint of any foam bits, I switch out to another roller and keep on trucking. If you do plan to spray though, you have to be VERY careful with 2 part poly paints. I've read horror stories about that, one in particular where a man sprayed his sail boat out in the driveway, and dropped dead 2 weeks later. He didn't use the necessary respirator setup for spraying.

I should add, the 2-part poly paint is a 1:1 mix, so hard to go wrong, and it isn't quite as particular as epoxy is about the ratio. Also FWIW, the Ameron stuff is a much brighter while than the Interlux. I usually wouldn't care too much about such a minor detail, but after using one and then the other, you can just almost feel the difference. I don't know how better to describe it. Also, you can touch up 2-part paint with 1-part after the fact, but you can not put 2-part over 1-part (again, poly) w/o sanding off and starting over.

[KCStudly]

Thanks for the details and advice. There are so many choices to make. Which epoxy primer did you use?

[KCStudly]

Tonight I went by Defender again and picked up another couple of gallons of 105, and 205 to go with. I think that should be plenty to finish the whole camper, and I didn’t want to run out during any of the bigger layups to come.

At the shop I cleaned up the bench some, moved the TB to the side and unscrewed the temporary deck screws holding the hatch on. It has been a while since we have seen the inside of the galley and underside of the hatch. I can tell you that the hatch has gained some weight and is not less awkward for me to handle by myself, especially given that you have to be careful not to dent, ding or crush the foam.

Here is the hatch sitting on its side on the floor. Note the extra masking tape at the corners as well as along the sides and sill.


The galley is still there; a little dusty, but none the worse for wear.


The old bed sheets I bought at a yard sale very early in the build came in handy again as pads to (hopefully) protect the foam. Getting the hatch flipped over w/o putting too much of its own weight or my grip on any one spot was a bit of a challenge working by myself, but I managed. Even though it felt like it might get away from me every step of the way. I spent the rest of the session with the hair dryer softening the tape and peeling it off in various size shreds. The back edge and tip of the utility knife blade, tweezers, my nubby fingers and finger nails all came into play. Here you can see that I have gotten the corners, one side and sill all stripped off; just one more side to go.


Tomorrow will be a family day; happy thanksgiving to all.

Friday I will experiment a little and do a test of a flox corner. I’d like to keep the crisp edge between the hatch and side wall, but I will have to work around the plywood inner skin of the hatch. My thought at the moment is to bevel the edge with the router first; make a temporary dam with release agent to build the flox corner; then glass to the corner from both directions. Option “B” would be to excavate a wedge of foam from the back side of the inner ply and rely on the edge of the ply to take the adhesive from both sides with flox backing it up. Option “C” would be no flox and just glass to the corner edge of the ply.

[Funluvin001]

Thanks for the details and advice. There are so many choices to make. Which epoxy primer did you use?

Interlux InterProtect 2000E Epoxy Primer. I was advised to use a low-mat regular roller with it and did the first two coats. BIG (and costly) mistake! Ended up sanding about %80 of it off. The stuff sets up more like a filler than a paint. I thought perhaps it was because it was too hot and dry, and so I did a second coat in a much cooler time, and it behaved identically. Then I discovered how much better foam was, but the epoxy will eat the foam more quickly than the poly will. It would have been interesting to have sprayed this stuff, but the working time was only about 30 minutes. Also not nearly as much of a concern with the poly topcoat.

[KCStudly]

What part was the mistake; the 2 coats instead of 1, or not using a foam roller intended for epoxy?

[KCStudly]

Get your feed bag on!

Another fabulous Thanksgiving dinner at mom and Bill’s.

Center piece decorations by candle light. The two scroll like pieces of wood are interlocking Kauri wood trivets from mom’s New Zealand trip.


Avacado Cocktail, a family tradition. Avacado, chopped celery, spritz of lemon juice and chili sauce served with a few wheat thin crackers.


Roast turkey with homemade cranberry sauce.


This was a new dish that was quite nice. Roasted Brussel sprouts (sliced in half tossed in olive oil, and a bit of salt, then spread on a tray and roasted with a flip half way thru) mixed with chunks of acorn squash (peeled, diced, oil, cinnamon, maple syrup, roasted same way), dried cranberries, pecans and a bit more maple syrup.


Cornbread Stuffing (dressing, since it didn’t go in the bird).


Cornbread Stuffing from the bird.


Requisite cranberry jelly, complete with mold lines from the can.


Giblet Gravy made with pan drippings, a little white wine to deglaze and sifted flour.


Graber olives, another family tradition. The cork and fat copper wire thing is a napkin ring. Bill made the set many years ago and they go well with the autumn color scheme.


Bon Appetite!


As usual, I forgot to take pictures of dessert until after we had decimated it, my apologies.
Mom’s pecan pie (the best pecan pie in the world)!


Mom’s pumpkin pie (none better).


Topped with freshly whipped cream with a dash of vanilla and confectionary sugar blended in.


It was a nice cozy celebration with just the four of us this year.