best / easiest to find epoxy to seal plywood edges?

[Poorlytiedfly]

I have searched the forum and can't find any products listed to seal the edge of my floor before installing the walls. It seems like most everyone goes the route of West Marine but I was thinking that surely there would be a readily available product that I wouldn't need to order that would achieve the same results.... Does anyone have any suggestions for something that I could find at a Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, etc?
I have a gallon of this two part epoxy that is used to seal/coat bar tops - could this be used? It is an epoxy resin and polyamine hardener. I wouldn't "flood" it on but would brush several coats until the wood quit absorbing. It wasn't cheap but I would use it if it would work.

https://jet.com/product/detail/f8ac6ca1edfe4ab497f58b072ebe3e94?jcmp=pla:ggl:hardware_a3:building_consumables_painting_consumables_varnishes_finishes_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=1519a31a-a075-473e-b32f-71a2b5cf4cae&abkId=403-183402&gclid=Cj0KEQiAisy1BRD7_YSgpduD2cEBEiQAPR3UuIIxwdIOcIhnDapzIpbJXbeQaVI1vcB_hwiQNmAZg7MaAq1y8P8HAQ

[Graniterich]

I have used real two part epoxy from aeromarine in San Diego. With the amount of time and effort the extra pain was worth it. Multiple coats flooded? Make but sealed so I never have to worry. Then coated multiple times with exterior polyurethane. Would do again

[angib]

I wouldn't "flood" it on but would brush several coats until the wood quit absorbing.

The aim when applying epoxy to end grain is to completely saturate the plywood. So yes to multiple coats but they should all be done in one go without the previous coat curing. The end grain will really suck the epoxy in (capillary action), so each 'coat' may be only 30 seconds after the last one.

Letting the epoxy cure between coats reduces how much it is 'sucked up' and so gives less-than-saturated end grain.

There are plenty other products with epoxy in their name that will not be as long-lasting as genuine epoxy resin, but if you have some with separate resin base and hardener, that sounds like genuine epoxy.

[KCStudly]

Re: the bar top stuff, isn't that usually formulated for a thick build up? I would think that for wicking into wood you would rather use a laminating grade of epoxy, or even a CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) grade.