First build 5x10 Rimple design

[mariannf]

I have been reading about and planning for the electrical system. Here are my initial thoughts and some resources I have found helpful. My intent is to keep this as simple as possible. i have some questions embedded and hope some of you won't mind giving advice.

1. I anticipate having few AC 110-120 V needs. so all i am installing is an RV cable hatch. I will get a heavy duty outdoor extension cord. I got this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2313760559 ... noapp=true

i don't think it gets much simpler than this.

2. for the 12 volt DC system, i will have three loads:
- a cabin light (1 amp) http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-NEW-RV-LED-12 ... 1731836311
- a fantastic vent fan (less than 4 amps on high)
- a dual 12 volt socket usb port: http://www.amazon.com/ISWEES-Cigarette- ... J72EMHXND0

For the 12 volt Dc system i will mount a deep cycle battery in a battery box in the tongue box. The fuse block and ground block will also be in the tongue box. I have read that if the fuse block is close in proximity to the battery then a master fuse is not needed. Do you agree or think this is true? If i get a bunch of different answers i will probably go with installing one.

The wire length for any of the three loads will be approximately 15-20 feet. as such i believe the wire gauge needed from each load to the fuse block is 14 gauge (see this thread viewtopic.php?t=11316&highlight= ), but to be on the safe side i will use 12 gauge. Do you see any problem with this?

Grounding the battery. i have seen a lot of differing opinions on this. However, with safety in mind it sounds like grounding to the trailer frame is advisable, so that's what I plan. I have question: if i ground the battery to the frame, i also have to have a negative wire running between the battery and the ground block for the loads correct?

I will buy a battery tender to charge the battery. if there is one you like please let me know.

Finally, because i haven't done this before I plan to have an electrician look at my work. i have kids going in this thing!

Here are some links to resources i found useful in learning about 12 volt.

12 volt in general;
http://www.backwoodshome.com/installing ... ar-system/
http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camp ... -the-wire/
http://www.cheaprvliving.com/blog/basic ... t-fixture/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHjmOJIlcdc

Example of wiring plan:
This is Joanne's...she has a thread in the all thing electrical forum here as well:
http://www.asolidfoundation.com/dd_electrical_1.shtml
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=1317

a little about everything:
viewtopic.php?t=11272

[mariannf]

I posted the above electrical plans and questions inthe electrical forum: here is the thread with some feedback and advice:
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=65630

[mariannf]

Hi all,
Does anyone have suggestion about where to buy aluminum sheet in Nor Cal? I have a 5x10x5 design, and am only putting aluminum from end to end over the roof...so i will need a 20 foot sheet that is 5' wide. i have sub roof materials (3mm birch) so want a low gauge thickness.
any suggestions appreciated!

[ELM]

Hi all,
Does anyone have suggestion about where to buy aluminum sheet in Nor Cal? I have a 5x10x5 design, and am only putting aluminum from end to end over the roof...so i will need a 20 foot sheet that is 5' wide. i have sub roof materials (3mm birch) so want a low gauge thickness.
any suggestions appreciated!

I'm getting my Aluminum from HD distributors in West Sacramento 2600 Industrial Blvd 916-375-1695. I've called and they have 49" x 110" x .050" thick in white for $77.72 per sheet. They also have 102" wide by how ever long you want it (it's on a roll) and he didn't know the thickness but from checking around I think it's .030 thick. It's the aluminum they use on semi trailer roofs and it's $12.15 per LF. I haven't been there yet to check it out so this is the info I got over the phone. Let me know if this works out fun you. Thanks

[mariannf]

Hi all,
Does anyone have suggestion about where to buy aluminum sheet in Nor Cal? I have a 5x10x5 design, and am only putting aluminum from end to end over the roof...so i will need a 20 foot sheet that is 5' wide. i have sub roof materials (3mm birch) so want a low gauge thickness.
any suggestions appreciated!

I'm getting my Aluminum from HD distributors in West Sacramento 2600 Industrial Blvd 916-375-1695. I've called and they have 49" x 110" x .050" thick in white for $77.72 per sheet. They also have 102" wide by how ever long you want it (it's on a roll) and he didn't know the thickness but from checking around I think it's .030 thick. It's the aluminum they use on semi trailer roofs and it's $12.15 per LF. I haven't been there yet to check it out so this is the info I got over the phone. Let me know if this works out fun you. Thanks

Thanks so much ELM!

[mariannf]

Started building up with the bulkhead walls. I put in 2x2 pieces screwed into the subframe to create a channel for the walls so it would give them support and point at which some pressure could be placed against the wall and framing to secure it. Also makes it easier for me to work on since I mostly work alone.all walls are glued with PL and screwed into the framing.

[mariannf]

I installed the exterior sidewalls. It was a two person job to lift them above the 1x2 I used to create a channel to hold them in place and lower them into it. They sit in the floor. They are glued and screwed into the1x4 framing on the floor and glued on to the floor itself. To form the joint I used two pieces of 1x4. One piece attached to the sidewall an overlapping the second piece to the bulkhead wall. The framing is glued and screwed to the walls and where they join each other. I screwed in from the outside to secure the walls and framing using either 1 1/4 or 2 inch exterior construction screws depending on what I was securing. I used A lot of PL everywhere. To build tension against the joints I used scrap wood pressed between the house and the walls on both sides, clips where possible and shims. See pics.

[mariannf]

More pics of sidewall installation
I also put up three spars for some additional ability and to be sure the walls were drawn close in enoug. The spars are cut to 57 inches using 1x2 installed 2-side running up and down. I put enough cross pressure on the sidewalls so that the spars can be just placed in and not drop. I put one spar on each end about 6 inches above the bulkhead walls and one at 60 inches in or at center. The total width across is 60, and the sidewalls are 3/4 and the framing material is 3/4 actual (1-by nominal), so that required the spars be 57.

[S. Heisley]

Getting the walls up is a milestone!

[mariannf]

Getting the walls up is a milestone!

Thanks Sharon it really feels like it! It is very gratifying to actually see it look like a travel trailer.

[S. Heisley]

Even though you may not be done in time to bring your trailer to the Shasta Lake Gathering, I hope you come. Either drive up for a day or camp in a tent or rent a teardrop. There's plenty of room at Antlers and I'm pretty certain that I'm not the only one who'd like to meet you. Also, it's a great opportunity to look at all the trailers, talk to fellow trailer owners, and get ideas. They have cabins, too, but the cabins are a tad expensive compared to the campgrounds.

[mariannf]

Even though you may not be done in time to bring your trailer to the Shasta Lake Gathering, I hope you come. Either drive up for a day or camp in a tent or rent a teardrop. There's plenty of room at Antlers and I'm pretty certain that I'm not the only one who'd like to meet you. Also, it's a great opportunity to look at all the trailers, talk to fellow trailer owners, and get ideas. They have cabins, too, but the cabins are a tad expensive compared to the campgrounds.

Hi there Sharon, I have it on my calendar. I wanted ot try and finish by then when I started in October, but i think ti is unlikely at this point.
We might try and make it...I would love the opportunity to thank you in person for all of your help!

[mariannf]

I finished the framing this weekend, and also reinforced the corner joints where the sidewalls and bulkhead walls meet (it was just bugging me that they weren't reinforced). I used construction ties at the top and bottom, and used 1.5 inch screws so that they went through the framing and into the sidewalls. Note: the bulkhead walls are 30 inches high. In the drawn plan a few pages back they appear taller (i was going to go to 40 originally). I decided on 30 inches to save weight. The bunkbed will be framed from 27.5 to 29 inches using 2x2 for the ledging attached through the inside skin so i didn't want to go less that 30.
Next will be insulating the sidewalls.

[mariannf]

Question for anyone out there. I am considering this Blue Seas fuse block that comes with negative bus bar. I like how consolidated it is and it looks like others on the site have used it. I will have only three loads: vent fan, main cabin dome light, and dc outlet (cigarette lighter type).
Any concerns with using this fuse block?
Many thanks.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/S ... _and_Cover

[jmascioni]

I have personally used that exact fuse box when I redid the wiring on an older boat. The only thing that I will say is although it is a well made item, you need to have "all your ducks in a row", as far as wiring it. There isn't a lot of room, everything has to be neat and tidy to fit it all together. Using ring terminals to mount the wire onto the fuse box makes it much easier. As long as you put it in a spot for easy access. Mine was mounted up under the dash of the boat and I had a terrible time trying to get the wire and a screw driver in there when there was only enough room for 1 hand at a time.