Northern Tool trailer 45 mph limit

[vttrampers]

I am starting a 5x8 Benroy build and was planning to use the Northern Tool Ultra-Tow aluminum trailer as the platform. I just saw, however, that the "features and benefits" list includes a 45 mph max. towing speed restriction. The trailer seems to be essentially identical to the widely used Ironton steel model, so I'm not sure what to make of the speed restriction. The 1,715-lb. payload capacity and 1980-lb. max. GVWR are essentially the same as the steel version and the axle/bearings/wheels seem similar. Is this one of those lawyer-induced lawsuit protection deals or there really some reason to question the utility of the trailer? The weight savings is a real draw, but not if there is truly an issue with the Ultra-Tow version.

Does anyone out there have experience/insight with this trailer?

Thanks!

Steve

[les45]

This subject pops up periodically and it seems that the 45 mph limit is aimed more at the 12" tires than any other part of the trailer. The consensus is that it is strictly legal posturing and most people have run their NT and HF trailers with the same 12" tires at freeway speeds with no problems. My weekender was built on the NT 5X8 and I have an older HF folding utility trailer with the same 12" tires and I routinely run them at 65 with no problem. You should repack the bearings with good grease when you assemble your trailer as the stuff that comes with it from the factory is more of a preservative and not a good bearing grease.

[friz]

I am starting a 5x8 Benroy build and was planning to use the Northern Tool Ultra-Tow aluminum trailer as the platform. I just saw, however, that the "features and benefits" list includes a 45 mph max. towing speed restriction. The trailer seems to be essentially identical to the widely used Ironton steel model, so I'm not sure what to make of the speed restriction. The 1,715-lb. payload capacity and 1980-lb. max. GVWR are essentially the same as the steel version and the axle/bearings/wheels seem similar. Is this one of those lawyer-induced lawsuit protection deals or there really some reason to question the utility of the trailer? The weight savings is a real draw, but not if there is truly an issue with the Ultra-Tow version.

Does anyone out there have experience/insight with this trailer?

Thanks!

Steve

I believe the unrealistic speed restrictions on all these kits are designed to keep the lawyers out of the game. You can't fix stupid, but sometimes you can get stupid to agree to something that keeps stupid from suing you.

Friz

[elcam84]

Personally I see it as a lawyer induced rating as is how much of the world is now. If the trailer was really limited to 45mph then they wouldn't sell any of them and should only be sold as off road use because 45 is not suitable for public roads. You can't go anywhere and only drive on roads with 45mph or lower speed limits.

The only trailers I wouldn't drive on public roads are the ones with 8" rims. Those tires are just too small and spin way too fast.

For me if you can't pull the trailer on the freeway at the speed limit of 70 to 85 then I wouldn't want it as you wouldn't be able to keep up with traffic and would be causing allot of headaches for everyone else on the road by holding up traffic and creating a situation that can cause an accident.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

[vttrampers]

Thanks for the input. After more searching on the NT website I found that the 45 mph limit also applies to the Ironton trailer! NT's reponse to a question about this was: "Excess speed is the second highest cause of car-trailer accidents. Recommended maximum speed for all passenger cars towing trailers is 45 MPH. This is the manufacturer’s recommendation for safe driving."

So I think your reply is spot on. I plan on pulling, cleaning and greasing the bearings and following regular inspection/maintenance procedures so I'm less concerned than I was when I first saw the speed limitation bullet point. I think the trailer should be fine with sensible use.

[gudmund]

Not to start a 'speed limit' war here but this quote is misleading ...."45 mph is not suitable for any public road" ???? Legally - 45 mph is suitable for all public roads being there is only one roadway that has a 'minimum' speed limit and that is the freeway and it is 40 mph which with this being said, you could even -legally- tow this trailer on the freeway as long as you stay in the slow lane about 40 but under 45 mph. You can do any speed up to the 'limit' - "speed limit" is the -MAX- speed you are allowed to do by law (yes, there also is a law that states you are to pull over if you are holding back more than 5 vehicles but my point is there is no "minimum" speed limit except on the freeway.
Yes, I also agree they are saying this for legal liability's just as most State's state you have to have trailer brakes when towing 1500 lbs. or more, well if you look in your vehicle owner manual - I have yet to see one that says 1500 lbs. The only thing I have found so far in all of the owners manuals I have read - no matter what the vehicle brand is or what the vehicle is rated to tow - "you need trailer brakes if the trailer weights more than 1000 lbs.". I am sure this is also being said for legal liabilities.

[yrock87]

one reason why the lawyers jump into this game is because there is no guarantee that Joe Schmo will properly load his HF or NT cargo trailer. If Mr. Schmo, who knows nothing about trailers except that he has to attach the front of it to the ball on his pickup bumper and plug the lights in, loads the cargo trailer in a manner that creates negative tongue weight... he might actually make it to his destination if he keeps it below 45.

the stability of trailer is dependent on two things. proper weight distribution, and speed. At low speeds, even an incredibly unbalanced trailer will stay on the road. and even a well balanced trailer will eventually become unstable if you go fast enough.

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/tow-me-do ... 1609771499 This article does a great job of explaining the why, without needing an advanced degree in math.

[QueticoBill]

The Ironton I just picked up has it printed/painted on the wheels. Would hate to be stopped and have that facing out.

[hospadar]

Hey!

I'm using the same trailer (the aluminum one) as the base for my project. I used the stock tires to haul some supplies from Sturgeon Bay, WI to Ann Arbor, MI (round trip, about 1k miles). Drove 55 the whole way, no problems, but the trailer was un-loaded.

From what I could find to read about the Norther Tool trailer and bias-ply trailer tires in general is that the main risk is blowout due to overheating (which happens more easily in trailer tires because of the thick sidewalls) when you have the wrong combination of load/hot temperatures/long-hauls. The impression I get is that most/all road-rated (not agricultural) trailer tires are fine up to 55 in normal conditions, and probably fine going faster so long as you're not hauling an overloaded trailer in circles around death valley.

All that being said, just to give myself some peace of mind, I replaced the stock (bias ply) tires with radials. Unless you get a wider axle that will accomodate 13 inch tires, these are pretty much your only choice for the northern tool trailer: http://recstuff.com/trailer-tires-wheel ... d-range-e/

The radials are rated for higher speeds (65, same as all other trailer tires) and are generally just better than bias ply tires (less heat, higher speed ratings)
Ordered from recstuff, I got three tires (left/right & a spare), mounted on galvanized rims & shipped for <$150.

I'm planning on a super-long road trip that's going to involve a lot of long-hauling through hot places next summer which was the main reason I was particularly concerned - I think if I was just planning on cruising around in-state I'd just set the cruise control to 55 and not worry about it. $150 bucks to reduce the risk of a really awful blowout on the highway seemed worth it to me.

[hospadar]

Other thoughts:
In general, I like the trailer, the price was good and it seems nice (have towed it mostly unloaded a bit, haven't towed it with a trailer built on top yet (cause the trailer's not done)

The tail lights that came with the trailer however (specifically the very thin aluminum mounting boxes) broke after the first couple hundred miles of towing. The bouncing up-and-down of the trailer just kinda shook them apart. Wasn't too big of a deal in the long run, northern tool sent me some replacement tail lights that were actually nicer than the stock ones (2 pairs! I think on accident, oh well). I'd mount the tail lights to something sturdier or mount them directly to the trailer (I moved the second pair to be mounted directly on the back of the trailer chassis) and just skip the cheap stock mounts all together.

The actual tail lights themselves seemed totally fine, the only problem was with the mounting boxes.

[QueticoBill]

Hey!

I'm using the same trailer (the aluminum one) as the base for my project. I used the stock tires to haul some supplies from Sturgeon Bay, WI to Ann Arbor, MI (round trip, about 1k miles). Drove 55 the whole way, no problems, but the trailer was un-loaded.

From what I could find to read about the Norther Tool trailer and bias-ply trailer tires in general is that the main risk is blowout due to overheating (which happens more easily in trailer tires because of the thick sidewalls) when you have the wrong combination of load/hot temperatures/long-hauls. The impression I get is that most/all road-rated (not agricultural) trailer tires are fine up to 55 in normal conditions, and probably fine going faster so long as you're not hauling an overloaded trailer in circles around death valley.

All that being said, just to give myself some peace of mind, I replaced the stock (bias ply) tires with radials. Unless you get a wider axle that will accomodate 13 inch tires, these are pretty much your only choice for the northern tool trailer: http://recstuff.com/trailer-tires-wheel ... d-range-e/

The radials are rated for higher speeds (65, same as all other trailer tires) and are generally just better than bias ply tires (less heat, higher speed ratings)
Ordered from recstuff, I got three tires (left/right & a spare), mounted on galvanized rims & shipped for <$150.

I'm planning on a super-long road trip that's going to involve a lot of long-hauling through hot places next summer which was the main reason I was particularly concerned - I think if I was just planning on cruising around in-state I'd just set the cruise control to 55 and not worry about it. $150 bucks to reduce the risk of a really awful blowout on the highway seemed worth it to me.

It seems a lot of folks mount larger wheels and tires on the NT axel and hubs, either with spacers or wheels with enough negative offset. Why is wider axel needed?

[elcam84]

Spacers are a bad idea. They change the load on the bearings and studs of the axle. Think longer lever now. Wheels with less back spacing would be a better route.



Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

[alaska teardrop]

All that being said, just to give myself some peace of mind, I replaced the stock (bias ply) tires with radials. Unless you get a wider axle that will accomodate 13 inch tires, these are pretty much your only choice for the northern tool trailer: http://recstuff.com/trailer-tires-wheel ... d-range-e/

This sounds like a good choice for an alternative tire. Also note that the tire is rated for 1520# @ 80 psi. This means that you can lower the tire pressure in relationship to the trailer weight for a smoother safer ride.

Spacers are a bad idea. They change the load on the bearings and studs of the axle. Think longer lever now. Wheels with less back spacing would be a better route

.

As I understand, trailer axles are made for wheels with a zero offset so that both inner & outer bearings are equally loaded. When both bearings are the same size, spacers and/or offset wheels load one bearing more than the other which can cause more wear & higher temperature.

Fred

[QueticoBill]

I'm not sure I agree with there being a difference of negative offset versus a spacer and no offset, or whatever combination that keeps center of wheel in same relative position to hub.

[Roly Nelson]

The ratio of the spindle dihedral, the roadway temps and humidity, coupled with inverse quadridupled conflagulation, could spell trouble. Just kiddding! My HF trailer has 35,000 miles on it, 3 new sets of tires and absolutely no problems whatsoever.
Roly, the So Calif woody guy