Karebru's 7x16 Build Log

[flboy]

My employer has several cargo trailers of different sizes. One is a dual axle about the size of mine. When it's empty, it is tongue weight neutral.
It will ballance on the four wheels without the jack touching the ground, and relies on loading to give it tongue weight.

Mine, empty, had plenty of tongue weight. I haven't weighed it, but it does make my V6 Frontier squat a bit.
The weight I've added so far has been evenly distributed. I've done what I could with my camper design to place the heaviest things over the axles, but there will be some added weight right up in the V-nose where the small bathroom will be. My overall weight should be well within capacity, but I anticipate it being tongue heavy.

So... I think my rig is going to need some help for safety reasons, and for a better ride.
A short-armed weight distribution hitch might fit. My exposed A-frame is very short. Only 30 inches along the tubes from the ball to the box.

I guess my other option would be Firestone Ride-Rites.

https://www.realtruck.com/firestone-air-bag-suspension-kits/R181688P2017Y451MA.html

Years ago, I put them on an F150 that I used to tow a heavy boat, and I was very happy with the difference they made.

Right now, I'm leaning towards the air assist bags.
Any thoughts?

That is a lot of trailer for that truck and you want it all level for tow. I'd definitely have a weight distributing hitch with anti-sway... you cannot go wrong with that and will have the hitch adjustment and etc. to level it up..... but the Airbags are also a good thing to have and have their place. My WD hitch will balance it all out and the anti-sway is priceless IMO, but the load on the rear springs will cause some bounce and related handling issues that the hitch cannot resolve. I have used Airlift bags before for this reason and they were a great solution. I just put some on my F-150 for my new CTC because of bounce. I have not hooked up the CTC yet... but will be doing that soon. I'd recommend both. When you are towing a trailer at highway speeds, too many things to go wrong and to have it all handle properly in an emergency and/or poor conditions... you cannot put a price on that.

I just put these on:

[Karebru]

It" is a lot of trailer for that truck."
I'm glad I went with the V6. The camper idea came later.
But, hey... This is Florida. Home of "Florida Man". I see much crazier rigs on the road every day.

I stay off the interstates when I'm towing, no matter what I'm towing. I'm not in a hurry. Even when towing a boat to the Keys, the slow trip through the Glades is part of the adventure.
We'll be, back roads and not too far from home for our first several camping trips.
I'll probably start with air assist on the truck while I try to find a bolt on weight distribution system that will work without modifications and welding.

What I really ought to do, is finish the dang camper before worrying too much about towing accessories and added insulation and such.

[John61CT]

Really the best solution is to either

modify your design and usage so weight is properly distributed, or

move your suspension until

TBW is 8-12% of the total trailer weight

IMO 15% can be too much if the vehicle is already nearing its rating, which you shouldn't do anyway but separate topic.

The European standards are near zero TBW, wheels close to center, but fancy hitches and low travel speeds are required, and all that much more tightly enforced than in the US

which mainly relies on the fact that insurance does not pay out if your usage was not to spec.

[McDave]

Have you determined the tongue weight? You want 10-15% of the trailer weight, loaded, on the ball. It's good to have an idea what it is. So you can weigh it at the scales, or even use a bath scale and some blocks, or just use this handy tool to estimate the weight and balance of your trailer. Just insert your numbers where the red numbers are, the program does the rest.
https://www.engineersedge.com/calculato ... alance.htm

McDave

[Karebru]

Thanks.
No I haven't weighed it yet, but will once it's finished.
I'll have camping gear and supplies that I can shift around to help with balance too.

[John61CT]

Battery bank, water storage and propane bottles will have more of an impact

[Karebru]

Battery bank, water storage and propane bottles will have more of an impact

My heavy weight items will be over the axles. Fresh water tank on one side, and refrigerator and air conditioner on the other side.
No gas or batteries.
A couple bulkheads and cabinets forward, and bunks and cargo area aft.
Cabinets are mostly air space until they're loaded. If I need to travel with the heavier stuff that goes in the cabinets in the back, and put it away once I get where I'm going, it still beats setting up a tent and sleeping on the ground.

I'm guessing my overall weight will be 60-70 percent of the maximum ratings for the truck.

Firestone Ride-Rites are on the way. I used them for more than just towing on my old truck. It's nice to have that adjustability.

[rvsixer]

I'm guessing my overall weight will be 60-70 percent of the maximum ratings for the truck

"Tow" ratings mean nothing in regards to light duty vehicles. It's payload which limits what you can tow.

I just looked up 2018 Frontier specs, the MAX payload rating is 900lbs (presumably for a 4x2 short bed short cab stripper, larger/longer/well equipped models will have even less, look at your tire/payload sticker on your truck for your truck's actual payload capability). Let's say you have two people and gear at 450lbs in the truck. That leaves you maybe around 350lbs for tongue weight. 300lb / 12.5% minimum tongue weight = 2400 lb trailer max without breaking any ratings on the truck. Build VERY light.

I had a 24' Pioneer trailer that I sold to a guy, 4600 lbs and 625lb tongue. The guy showed up with a Frontier , I told him no way was that going to work. He insisted, hitch was about 5" from the ground, I towed it to its new home for him with my 2500HD Duramax .

[Karebru]

I'm guessing my overall weight will be 60-70 percent of the maximum ratings for the truck

"Tow" ratings mean nothing in regards to light duty vehicles. It's payload which limits what you can tow.

I just looked up 2018 Frontier specs, the MAX payload rating is 900lbs (presumably for a 4x2 short bed short cab stripper, larger/longer/well equipped models will have even less, look at your tire/payload sticker on your truck for your truck's actual payload capability). Let's say you have two people and gear at 450lbs in the truck. That leaves you maybe around 350lbs for tongue weight. 300lb / 12.5% minimum tongue weight = 2400 lb trailer max without breaking any ratings on the truck. Build VERY light.

I had a 24' Pioneer trailer that I sold to a guy, 4600 lbs and 625lb tongue. The guy showed up with a Frontier , I told him no way was that going to work. He insisted, hitch was about 5" from the ground, I towed it to its new home for him with my 2500HD Duramax .

Sigh...
Well, I don't have a 2500HD Duramax. I have a V6 Frontier that's my everyday ride, and I'm pretty happy with it. It's a 2017. My mistake if I said 18. The sticker says 1,268 lbs. And my trailer isn't 24'. It's 16' and just barely over a ton empty. With a full water tank and gear, I doubt I'll be adding 1,000 lbs... But I will weigh it.
Am I pushing things a little? Yeah, maybe. That's why I'm using aftermarket parts that I'm familiar with, that are designed to improve the situation.
This ain't my first towing rodeo, but it doesn't hurt to compare notes with others.


Anyway...
Finally started working on my V-nose bathroom bulkheads. They sure don't build these trailers square and plum.
Lots of scribing and fitting.
I shot the four interior corners with a laser level to level the floor, put it on jack stands, and am working from that.

[McDave]

Sigh...

I think that your best bet with the interior finishing work, walls, cabinets etc. is to find a place where you can level the floor and just leave it there until the walls are up, cabinets installed, any vents, windows or other apertures that require a hole through the wall or roof are completed and all the panelling is reinstalled. A level floor is about the only thing you can do to set a base from which every other measurement and angle can be referenced. Once you have all the work done that affects or could affect the framing and structural members and it is all tightened up, you probably have done all you can to make it "square to the world". Now you can move it and see how much things changed when you re- level it. I'll bet you'll be pretty happy with the way everything lines up and doors swing and latches mate etc.
Also, Your 2017 V/6 probably has more HP and torque than my '90s 5.7 V/8. I just try not to horsewhip it and keep up on the maintenance items. Filters, fluids, brakes, bearings and tires. Entropy never sleeps, so there is that....
Keep On Truckin'....

McDave

[hankaye]

Karebru, Howdy;

Solid advise from McD, but, ... let me add this, Don't try for the "Norm Abrams invisible fit"
leave some wiggle room where things butt up against another or swing or slide or ... Remember,
the willow will out last an oak in a wind storm and something that can wiggle will outlast
something that can't when bouncing along any road. Just something to consider.

hank

[Karebru]

Karebru, Howdy;

Solid advise from McD, but, ... let me add this, Don't try for the "Norm Abrams invisible fit"
leave some wiggle room where things butt up against another or swing or slide or ... Remember,
the willow will out last an oak in a wind storm and something that can wiggle will outlast
something that can't when bouncing along any road. Just something to consider.

hank

Yes,thanks.
Knowing that it's going to flex, I plan on using trim over most joints so that they don't have to be tight.
Some good flexible calk here and there too.

[Karebru]

Thought I'd post. It's been almost a month. This project is getting seriously fun.
I've finally figured out what I'm going to do with my bunk/toy-haul space. I had a tentative plan to have a single fold-up on each side.
We wanted to have space in between where we can put our feet on the floor and stand up without having to climb over one other.
Then, we thought it would be nice to have a table.
The water tank, being over the axels, is partially under where the right bunk will be, so folding it up won't give us much toy-haul space there.
So here's the new plan... Not really what you'd call a conventional dinette, but it will serve the purpose when the outside picnic table is getting rained on.
In the bunk position, it also provides a place between our feet for a snoring beagle our two.
Camping just ain't the same without a beagles.



Here's a wide angle shot of where things are now.



To the left, inside the little V-nose bathroom...
The wife saw the space below the electric stuff and declared it to be the clothes hamper.
The door over this opening will be vented for the exhaust fan and for cooling the transformers.



And to the right...
The medicine cabinet door needs a mirror, and I'm thinking, aluminum diamond plate on the wall for a backsplash behind the sink on my quirky little vanity cabinet.



I've also ordered this tin sign to dress up the wall to the left of the medicine cabinet.
We had an old Cub when I was a kid. I spent many hours behind the wheel mowing lawns and plowing snow.



Tomorrow, I start the galley cabinets.

[Karebru]

Forgot this...
My nephew is in the graphics business. Signs, vinyl, full wraps, etc.
Along with a little bit of color on the sides, I was thinking about having him put something like this on the back of my ramp door.

[McDave]

Well I kinda like the new floor plan. It is nice to have a place to sit and eat or read or fix things and not have fight with the bugs constantly. Should make for a cozy sleeping quarters as well. A couple of beagles in there should make it feel like home. All the familiar sounds and smells and faces.
So, I must say I really like that corner sink and vanity. Fantastic work on those doors and the red stain really adds a punch of color. All the woodwork looks top notch in the "V" area, and you managed to even provide for some storage. Very well done. The Farmall sign is a great touch, if you can get away with it. My wife pretty much let me have free reign with the décor, but she has added some nice touches of her own. Keeps it from getting too "gritty".
You are doing all the good there Mr., keep it up and you'll have one great trailer in no time.

McDave