Simple Plexiglass Star Window

[tc3]

Hi! Super excited to join this forum and get working on my build. I've been lurking for a while and finally have the means to start putting together my full time gridable cargo conversion! I have most of the plans mocked up for interior work bUT had a few questions before I finalize my purchase.

For a Star Gazing Roof Window I'm thinking of having the dealer frame a 4'x2' rectangle near the back left of the trailer. My plan is to use some glue epoxy to lay a piece of 1/4" or 1/2"? plexiglass or lexan on the exterior roof. I'll then add framing on the underside. Would this be a good idea?

My trailer will be an 8.5x20 car hauler. I have the free option of a beaver tail. The pros I can think of are:
It's easier to maneuver hills.
Lighter?
Cons:
I plan on using some of the flooring space for storage. I'll definitely be adding at least 2" of in nsulation above the galvanized underbelly.

Is the extended length tongue worth it? How does it aid in driving?

TC

[Padilen]

The Amish use sky lights in their shops/business. Might look into those.
The guy I know that refurbishes old trailers, has a pickup camper. Someone used a 2'x4' skylight. He liked it enough to leave it in. Found out he lost all his heat through it. So he had to make an insulated panel for cold weather.

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[tc3]

+1 on the insulated panel. Not sure how I would do that, since I'm lazy I'd want to automate it somehow

I've seen some skylights with the two parts, the exterior rounded dome and and interior rectangle. Is that what you're talking about? The thing I don't like about those is that they take up too much interior space and don't come in big enough sizes.

[friz]

I made insulated plugs for my windows. They press in place.

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[beachguy005]

A problem with having the dealer cut the hole is it forces you to find something to fit the hole in that exact location. Not great if you have a design change later on. I think it's better to get the window squared away first and adapt the CT to it. Cutting through the roof is easy and the roof braces are likely 24" on center.

[tc3]

A problem with having the dealer cut the hole is it forces you to find something to fit the hole in that exact location. Not great if you have a design change later on. I think it's better to get the window squared away first and adapt the CT to it. Cutting through the roof is easy and the roof braces are likely 24" on center.

The dealer won't cut it, just add one or two extra supports near the future cutout hole. I'm mostly concerned with weatherability. Will literally just gluing a sheet protect the interior? How long before reapplication?

[Padilen]

A problem with having the dealer cut the hole is it forces you to find something to fit the hole in that exact location. Not great if you have a design change later on. I think it's better to get the window squared away first and adapt the CT to it. Cutting through the roof is easy and the roof braces are likely 24" on center.

The dealer won't cut it, just add one or two extra supports near the future cutout hole. I'm mostly concerned with weatherability. Will literally just gluing a sheet protect the interior? How long before reapplication?

I think you maybe first. So you get to post the outcome.

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[beachguy005]

If you're looking to just cut a hole and slap a sheet of plexi over it, I'm thinking that you get a piece a few inches larger than your opening. Run a couple beads of caulk or butyl tape around the opening, set and firmly bed the plexi lens in it and run something like 4" Eternabond tape to seal the edges to the roof. Much like you would the flashing on a roof vent.
Should work fine though it's not very good if security is an issue.

[tc3]

Ya that's exactly what I'm thinking. If I added another sheet on the inside would this 3" air gap help a bunch with insulation? Id think this woildnt work with condensation thoigh. Only other thing I can think of is a big flap with 2" of foam board on a piano hinge.

Not concerned with security really, it will be nearly invisible on the roof and that's if they can get past the sentry!

[beachguy005]

I wouldn't add another sheet inside as I don't think you could get it air tight enough to prevent condensation and such. Also if you do it, I think you should use either some VHB tape or adhesive to firmly adhere the cut edges of the roof to the frame around the opening to prevent the lens from moving up and down when you're towing.

[dirtsailor2003]

Are you buying a flat top trailer or a rounded top trailer?

I know that the skin on my roof (flat top) is so thin I’d want to be attaching the plexi to a solid frame not the skin. I’d also want that frame To be higher than the roof supports that are there to help provide positive drainage.


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[tc3]

It will be a "semi-flat" roof, one piece. I may upgrade the thickness of the this piece. The edges of the sheet will overlap cross bracing and maybe screwed into the beams.

So this under the plastic sheet, above the roof aluminum. And then that over the edges onto the aluminum top.

I'd think I'd still want to run a bead of caulk around it touching the butyl tape with this I'm thinking.

And then $60 for the window aint a bad little project.

[greygoos]

Look on craigslist for a used golf cart windshield. Have picked them up for as little as 20 bucks. They are already road worthy.

[Tomterrific]

Look at the way a simple roof vent is designed. The top sits up higher than the roof so water does not pool against it. Get your glass up a bit with a frame.

I have thought about retrofitting something similar in my tiny camper. In my idea the star gazing would be through a large vent to do double duty. We have found that venting is the most over looked for comfort in most all trailer designs. A large vent right above our heads would be a wonderfull addition.

Tt

[beachguy005]

The reason for the roof vent design is because the vent can be left open even in the rain. He wants a fixed closed window. I don't think leaving it flat and sealed will cause it to leak, much like a closed moon roof in a car.