Budget College Student Build

[mattiker]

Have my plans done for the most part. Base some trailer parts that I picked up for $150 that are in rough shape. Design is taking inspiration from grasshopper trailers and the sawtooth xl build on these forums, although mine is going to be a bit smaller, with the goal of each wall being a single sheet of plywood. Got a good deal on some TBII, and will be going the canvas PMF route. Still deliberating on the wall construction, but I'm leaning towards just using 1/2 inch birch plywood. Secondary would be frame and foam, but the grasshopper design is more suited for plywood I think.



Wish me luck

[tony.latham]

but I'm leaning towards just using 1/2 inch birch plywood.

Tread lightly if it's cabinet grade birch. The glue may not be waterproof. Baltic, of course, is great but only comes in 5 x 5 sheets. If I were on a tight budget and build 8-foot long, I'd lean towards 1/2" AC (fir) plywood. That might save a wad of money.

Teardrop doors should be right where your hips lay. Go sit on your bed and then lay down. Sit back up (and you'll be right where you started from). That's where the door needs to be placed. And set the bottom of the door about half-way into the mattress so you'll be sitting on it and not the door stop.



Tony

[mattiker]

I'll look into seeing if I can find fir plywood, that sounds like it might work and a quick online look shows that it's much cheaper. That's a good note on the door as well, I might make the window fit into the door and move the door to fit about in the middle. Great points, thank you Tony!

I think I might also put a slight slope in the flat section of roof to help with drainage

[tony.latham]

Any lumber yard will have AC plywood. When I say yard, I’m not talking box store.

T

[Tom&Shelly]

I'll look into seeing if I can find fir plywood, that sounds like it might work and a quick online look shows that it's much cheaper. That's a good note on the door as well, I might make the window fit into the door and move the door to fit about in the middle. Great points, thank you Tony!

I think I might also put a slight slope in the flat section of roof to help with drainage

Best if you can inspect each sheet for quality. I bought a whole bunch of 1/4" AC ply from a lumber yard and was disappointed with the voids, knot holes, etc.

Friend of mine was a general contractor and knew the previous owner of the yard. That owner got out of the business because of the decline in quality from his suppliers over the years. He was tired hearing from his customers.

Tom

[mattiker]

Noted, there are a few lumber yards near me, I'll check them out. Hadn't had much luck with wood from the box stores anyhow.

[Sparksalot]

Any lumber yard will have AC plywood. When I say yard, I’m not talking box store.

T

+1

[mattiker]

Bringing my old thread back to life. Covid cut into a lot of my plans but I'm getting this build back on track. I still have the harbor freight trailer, will be posting some rehabilitation pictures soon. Purchased some phosphoric acid to deal with some of the rust and from there we paint.

Due to the cost of plywood, I've decided to go the route of doing a foamie, which is really more in line with what my car can tow anyway. PMF is still what I'm leaning towards as well.

Design changes: Due to the discussion on this board and a long time perusing other builds, I'm going to be changing the design pretty much entirely. The previous design had poor door placement and poor utilization of the 4x8 trailer surface. I plan to curve the front profile of the teardrop leading to a 2 foot angled section on top for an air vent and a second more noticeable slope leading to the rear of the trailer. The galley is the main concern for me at this point. I found a really interesting design that incorporated the galley into the front of the trailer and would slide out for use. I'm not sure on the practicality of this over a rear galley but it seemed like a good use of space.

I'm also still deliberating on wall construction whether it would be better to frame it using 2x2s with foam insulation (presumably 1.5" to be flush. I'm still doing research on whether it is alright to just use tightbond ii to adhere pmf to foam or if it's better to skin with 1/8" attached to wood framing then pmf.

Regardless, I have some drawing to do and will upload some potential plans soon.

[Pmullen503]

PMF is fine over foam and that's how foamies are normally done. Framing is minimal. Just enough to mount doors, windows and hatches.

[saywhatthat]

move the door to fit about in the middle

what about fenders

[mattiker]

I'll be taking fender location into account with the new build as well, that was something I had neglected initially. I've also considered where my hips naturally go.

2" foam and PMF will likely be the way to go if for no other reason that cost effectiveness. I need to find the time to really delve into some of those threads regarding best practice.

[tony.latham]

You want the bottom of the door frame half-way into the mattress. Otherwise, you'll be sitting on it, not the mattress when entering and exiting.

Tony

[mattiker]

You want the bottom of the door frame half-way into the mattress. Otherwise, you'll be sitting on it, not the mattress when entering and exiting.

Tony

Excellent point. Adjusted.

[saywhatthat]

why 2 '' you may want to look in to better foam and go 1 '' more inter room

[TimC]

I'm anxious to see how this teardrop build goes. You are getting some great advice so keep up the posts on design and you will save yourself some grief.

Tim