My first TTT build from San Antonio

[Stainless 2]

I found some T handle locking latches for the rear, using 2, and a paddle style latch for the entry door, which will have similar construction. I do not plan to use wood framing for the entry door, as it is much smaller and lighter, and I believe that it is tied in well enough to the front corner framing to easily bear the weight.

My small router really came in handy for this next part. I created a template for the latch and made the rough cut with the jig saw. I did the final detail with the router. I quickly learned that the outside opening was great to accept the latch face, but the inner detail to accommodate the mechanism was going to be a bit more tricky. After figuring out how to loosen the mechanism and several times fitting it in and taking it out, I removed the material from the inside with the router set to the correct depth to only cut the OSB liner to let the machanism fit and function correctly.

[Stainless 2]

I built the entry door in the same way. I then followed the same process with the paddle latch. This require the latch to be dis-assembled more than the others, and will also require shims for now, as I do not have the finish skin inside. The paddle latch was designed to fit a thicker door than the T handle latches. These details are the ones that I am certain I would have caught if I had found this forum earlier...lol

[Stainless 2]

Here are a few more pics of the paddle latch. I had to cut away some of the door framing to allow the mechanism clearance, and will be installing a small plate made of thicker steel that will be adjustable (slots rather than holes) to fine tune the closure prior to the exterior finish.

[Stainless 2]

I came across these drip edges that were both affordable, and a perfect match for my needs above the windows and the entry door. I ordered an extra just in case I decide to put the second entry door in on this project.

[Stainless 2]

Closed the galley in. I have not yet decided on where my power setup will be located. I am using a 100 amp hr agm battery that is a brick, plan to run 2000 watt inverter, and have 110v shore power for the next and arguably the most necessary step of the project according to my better half. I am definitely carrying fresh water in the rear, and once I have the furniture and cabinets built out inside, will assess the tongue weight and balance to decide where the power goes.

[Stainless 2]

Now that the cabin is closed in (windows are just held in temporarily by spring clamps inside), I needed to accommodate the only absolute that this project has. After much research, I had previously decided on this 5000 btu Energy Star certified Frigidaire window unit and framed accordingly. According to the mfg specs, the compressor ramps up in stages, and draws just over 700 watts for the compressor on start up. It has an economy setting that significantly lowers the power draw once the initial heat saturation has been removed. I framed out the surround with 2x4 lumber to increase the strength and stability of the mount. The universal support unit was found on Amazon, and works almost just as planned. Part of its' strength comes from the U channel shape of the main arm, so 2 small relief cuts into the 2x4 support allowed flush mounting of the support. I then slid the AC into the hole and shimmied it into place. I have approx 1/8" clearance around the sides and top of the AC unit that I will work on weatherproofing. I leveled the trailer first, then got the AC unit centered in the bubble. I attached the bottom leg triangulating the support by drilling through the rubber boot and through the metal "foot" inside and running a large exterior grade decking screw through to finalize the install.

My plan is to build a box to surround and protect the unit during transit. I have not reached a decision yet, but am leaning heavily to using aluminum angle and self perforated steel flashing (same as the wheel wells) front and sides on a hinge that will allow the cage to rotate up for clearance in case the perforations do not allow enough air flow for the unit to work correctly. I am also going to close in the condensate drain hole, and likely use a clear rubber tubing to direct the condensate to the bottom of the frame and away from the tongue box that I found by accident while searching for solar solutions for the trailer.

This box came from an oil field and had a small 50 watt BP panel installed onto it via a 2" square tube on an arm, and housed the battery and circuitry to operate a pretty complex set of solenoid operated valves. Unfortunately, these had been removed from the box. The man who listed it on craigslist was trying to sell the small solar panel, and the box was an afterthought. He was asking $100, and I told him that that was excessive for a 50 watt panel. Offered him a buck a watt ($50) and told him I wanted the box as well. He accepted, and now I have an excellent tongue box, and an extra solar panel that I dont know if I will use...LOL

The AC unit does a quick and efficient job of quickly cooling the cabin. The unit is pretty quiet, and I am very happy with it. I have a generator in mind that I will post up on in fairly short order.

[noseoil]

It's looking good now & my wife had the same comment about the AC unit, it has to be there for camping! I like the build, but wondering about your target weight, where will it be once it's finished & rolling with stuff in & ready for a trip? A run to the scales might be a good idea before going on the freeway. Don't forget the 10% minimum tongue weight rule for towing on the freeway. Anything less & it's going to be interesting at speed.

Liking what's there so far, looking forward to seeing it ready for camping.

[Stainless 2]

Thank you for the encouragement! My target weight is 1000 lb with the roof rack and power installed. I will run it to a scale pretty soon, to see where I am at so far. I am feeling like I am around 6-700 lbs now, so it may come in a bit heavier than target. My jeep is rated to pull 2500 i think. I am shooting for lightest weight possible for the beach, as there are some pretty treacherous deep and soft sand areas. I am hoping the wider tires, and the lighter weight will turn the trick to be a good fit. I have read up on the weight balance issues, and am staying flexible where the battery and power panel is going to be located. I am also looking at possible mounting of a propane tank, as I plan to go that route for cooking.

[Stainless 2]

I hope it is not a mistake, but I am planning to use the same fiber/asphalt coating I used under the 3/4" t&g ply flooring, brushed along the exposed bottom edge of my sheathing, after I run a bead of exterior latex Alex along the seam between frame and sheathing along the approx 1" reveal of the metal frame. Since I am using an elastomeric coating for the exterior, I do not think a little overlap onto the face of the exterior will pose a problem. Thoughts?

[noseoil]

It should be fine with the overlap on the bottom. If it's well-sealed, there shouldn't be an area of water intrusion. Not sure the Alex caulk is best. You might want to bump it up a bit & use one of the newer polymer types, or even a urethane caulk. VIP polymer is a really good product & will stretch if you can fine it, costs more but it's worth it over time.

[Stainless 2]

Okay! I finally got the time and conditions to coat the trailer. I landed on the Henry Tropicool product as a final choice. It has a lifetime warranty against ponding and had awesome reviews from both roofing applications, and some wooden shed builds that I was able to find online. It had excellent adhesion on its' first coat. I put it on as thick as I could manage with a roller, but have more than enough to second coat it, along with the tongue box to match as well if I want to. None too soon either, as the front that moved through last evening brought some rain with it. It had about 7 hours to set up, and was able to be handled after about 2 hours to remount the rear door. I hit the jambs and the door interiors first, then went ahead with the roof then sides and back. Curled it under with a brush to get a really good coating on the bottom edge of the sheathing. Will be looking into a 100% silicone sealant to run at the bottom seam at frame/sheathing. Will look at the kindly suggested brand first to see if it will play well with the Tropicool.

[Stainless 2]

A couple more pics. This stuff is pretty amazing. The first coat has created as described in the product, a monolithic layer that is very clearly waterproof. I dont know if I achieved the 30 mils thickness with my 1/2 nap, going to move to a 3/4 for the second coat. I only had one small area of slump above the entry door that i missed, I kept looking back and where it looked like it was starting to slump, just rolled it over again to even it out. It gave me about 10 minutes until it started to skin over, so plenty of time to catch mistakes. Still dont know why it is posting pics sideways, so apologies...

[DJ Davis]

Stainless 2,

I'm sure you've been too busy to spend much time on the forum perusing the various pages. I just completed a traditional teardrop and might be able to give you some advice on your build. I'm local, too. I live off of FM 78 near Foster Road. Let me know if you want to connect to share and commiserate.

DJ