Flboy - Custom 6x12 Off-Road Toy Hauler Conversion

[juangp]

Your build sounds similar to one I want to get started on. I've been looking at different manufacturers and Anvil seems like a good one. Would you mind sharing why you picked Anvil? I'm in South Florida, so it looks like all of my options are coming out of GA. Also, do you think it's worth having the manufacturer install certain options like windows? It seems to me that what the manufacturer charges to install a window is just about the same as the cost of ordering a window online, so I would save myself the labor.

[flboy]

Your build sounds similar to one I want to get started on. I've been looking at different manufacturers and Anvil seems like a good one. Would you mind sharing why you picked Anvil? I'm in South Florida, so it looks like all of my options are coming out of GA. Also, do you think it's worth having the manufacturer install certain options like windows? It seems to me that what the manufacturer charges to install a window is just about the same as the cost of ordering a window online, so I would save myself the labor.

I have been working with https://www.trailershowroom.com/... a specific salesman who I worked with when I bought my Lark in 2016 (Mike is the guy you want). They work with different OEM's and Anvil is who they are currently working with although I think they have multiple sources. I did some background on Anvil and they are one of the few not bought up by the big boys and build with the 1inch square tubing and their quality reputation seems good.

I think options depending on what they are are important. Anything to do like framing/floor joists , aluminum skin thickness, axles, doors, are all things you need to do if you want upgrades in that area because too late after built. I am having an RV door with window put in at factory as it is narrower width than stock and that is can something I want to do after the fact. Also, 16inch on center walls and etc.. as noted earlier in the thread. Almost doubled cost from stock.

I bought 2 brand new 20x30 slider windows from E-bay to install and I did get them for less that I could installed albeit not a great savings as you said; however, I'd rather do those myself to ensure they are done right and I do not have the floorplan and placement 100% figured out yet. I can do them easily enough when I have the plywood down and I am installing insulation.

BTW.. I would not trust anyone to do insulation correct. Ask others on that experience. IMO they charge way too much for that and it is rarely adequate, plus I think you should open walls to inspect wiring, welds, etc. before insulating and closing back up. I actually will put more rustoleum paint on all the beams..

Just my 2 cents. This is my 3rd build... so I have learned as some from the previous 2. Good luck...

[juangp]

Thanks for the advice. I looked up Trailershowroom.com and they seem to have similar prices to another dealer I had been looking at, www.trailers2go4less.com . Even similar lead times since they're both coming from Anvil.
Like you said, some of the upgrades I want to order from the manufacturer because it's the only way to go. Changing your mind about some of these structural upgrades after it's been built would cost way too much money.
Insulation is something I definitely want to do myself since that seems to be an area where you have to do it yourself if you want it done right. I haven't heard about any positive experiences with insulation done straight from the factory.

[flboy]

Went on an ordering spree today. All will be delivered by 2/28. Expecting the CTC to be ready in three weeks for pickup. Going to build it and take it West this summer since I couldn't leave yet.

I orders alot of the bigger ticket items. Based on total so far, I'll be under my $10,000 budget for this build. A few more items to buy for sure, but most will be from Home Depot and Lowes after this.



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[flboy]

Went on an ordering spree today. All will be delivered by 2/28. Expecting the CTC to be ready in three weeks for pickup. Going to build it and take it West this summer since I couldn't leave yet.

I ordered a lot of the bigger ticket items. Based on total so far, I'll be under my $10,000 budget for this build. A few more items to buy for sure, but most will be from Home Depot and Lowes after this.





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[ris]

We are also heading west this year. Start at Big Bend 22 March, across southwest hitting parks out to Joshua Tree in 12 Apr then Pinnacles NP up through the NPs of California, and Oregon to Olympic NP 21 Jun in northern Washington. Not sure where we will go from there. Do not plan to be back in Florida until mid November. Maybe we will see you out there if not before we leave. We will enjoy watching your build. This year we are carrying the camping equipment so we can leave the trailer in a few places and get up into the back country in just the truck.
Richard

[flboy]

We are also heading west this year. Start at Big Bend 22 March, across southwest hitting parks out to Joshua Tree in 12 Apr then Pinnacles NP up through the NPs of California, and Oregon to Olympic NP 21 Jun in northern Washington. Not sure where we will go from there. Do not plan to be back in Florida until mid November. Maybe we will see you out there if not before we leave. We will enjoy watching your build. This year we are carrying the camping equipment so we can leave the trailer in a few places and get up into the back country in just the truck.
Richard

Richard, we will keep in touch..If I get out there as I want to and I do not get derailed by any other family crisis, I will see if we can meet up on the road. That would be fun!


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[Grummy]

Sounds like you are about to have good times.... trailer build and USING it !

A couple of things came to my mind......

Add a column to that order spreadsheet you displayed for WEIGHT. Weigh everything as you build so you have a good record of WHAT is involved in your final scale total. For raw materials you can cut a 12" square, weigh it and later do the math via square feet involved.

I did not read whether the trailer will be coming with the interior walls in place, but I did see you will be insulating yourself. In my opinion, one really does have to fully GUT the trailer for a visual inspection, floor and all. Then do a full water leak test from all angles with moderate pressures. After buying mine, I was a little surprised (well, not all that much) as to the build methods. For example,where they put diamond plate on for protection, they end the trailer aluminum which means they fully rely on caulk to keep the water out of the walls. I also had water leak issues when spraying water in the back of the "screwless" seams.

Lastly, regarding Gross weight, while your adding the heavier axle, I've often wondered how the trailer builders decide where one can draw the line. In other words, could they say the quality of the frame and box could handle 7500 lbs ? 10,000 lbs ? I guess what I am saying is just because one puts a higher rating axle under wouldn't mean the rest of the trailer is good for it (not saying yours is not).

I'm not sure how I'd feel about making my 6x12 aluminum framed trailer a 5000lb trailer. I wonder what the company would be able to accurately say if I were to call and ask ? They probably couldn't commit to anything.

Looking forward to your build.

[flboy]

Sounds like you are about to have good times.... trailer build and USING it !

A couple of things came to my mind......

Add a column to that order spreadsheet you displayed for WEIGHT. Weigh everything as you build so you have a good record of WHAT is involved in your final scale total. For raw materials you can cut a 12" square, weigh it and later do the math via square feet involved.

I did not read whether the trailer will be coming with the interior walls in place, but I did see you will be insulating yourself. In my opinion, one really does have to fully GUT the trailer for a visual inspection, floor and all. Then do a full water leak test from all angles with moderate pressures. After buying mine, I was a little surprised (well, not all that much) as to the build methods. For example,where they put diamond plate on for protection, they end the trailer aluminum which means they fully rely on caulk to keep the water out of the walls. I also had water leak issues when spraying water in the back of the "screwless" seams.

Lastly, regarding Gross weight, while your adding the heavier axle, I've often wondered how the trailer builders decide where one can draw the line. In other words, could they say the quality of the frame and box could handle 7500 lbs ? 10,000 lbs ? I guess what I am saying is just because one puts a higher rating axle under wouldn't mean the rest of the trailer is good for it (not saying yours is not).

I'm not sure how I'd feel about making my 6x12 aluminum framed trailer a 5000lb trailer. I wonder what the company would be able to accurately say if I were to call and ask ? They probably couldn't commit to anything.

Looking forward to your build.

I hear you on the water testing. I did the same on my first CTC and second. Different manufacturers... same issues. Will be taking off all the wood including flooring to inspect welds, solder all wire connections and make sure grommets installed where runs are made through studs, repaint all metal with rustoleum and then insulate and put it all back before I add finish paneling.

I am not going to bother weighing each piece. Will weight it before I start and then after. Not sure what that would do for me. I have a tongue scale to make sure I get good distribution.

I understand and agree regarding the axles and weight rating. I did have the floor joists and all studs put on 16" centers instead of the 24" some do, had the tongue beefed up with the triple tube, and also had the load range D tires put on instead of the standard C's .''' however adding the 5,000 lb axle was not intended so I can haul more weight per se.. I just wanted the heavier duty bearings, spindles, springs, and etc. for the offroad aspect. Just more robust and sturdy so I can abuse it some.

[hankaye]

Grummy, Howdy;

You can put a semi truck axel under it and it won't matter. The main thing is the STICKER weight rating
that is indicated by the Manufacturer on the sticker with the VIN when they build it. That is what effects
any thing especially if there is an accident and insurance companies and lawyers (spit), get involved.

hank

[Grummy]

The main thing is the STICKER weight rating that is indicated by the Manufacturer......
hank

Indeed. I'm real curious what the mfg will put on this trailer tag given they have built it with the heavier axle.

One thing I know for sure is it is pretty hard to keep a 6 x 12, even an aluminum framed trailer under the 2990 as a "conversion" with Water, shower etc.,, especially if you intend to also haul a bike or ATV. I think I want to call Ameritech (manufacturer of my trailer) and ask what they tag a trailer like mine at with the one axle size up.

While I've seen some of these really light 6x12's, they obviously have less frame in them. Luckily I too have a triple tongue and 16" centers. Seems the OP has rode this rodeo before and also knew what he needed.

[steve cowan]

The axle is probably a 3500 pound but the id plate says 2990 pound because most single axle 6x12 trailers don't have brakes as standard.

[hankaye]

Grummy, Howdy;

The main thing is the STICKER weight rating that is indicated by the Manufacturer......
hank

Indeed. I'm real curious what the mfg will put on this trailer tag given they have built it with the heavier axle.

One thing I know for sure is it is pretty hard to keep a 6 x 12, even an aluminum framed trailer under the 2990 as a "conversion" with Water, shower etc.,, especially if you intend to also haul a bike or ATV. I think I want to call Ameritech (manufacturer of my trailer) and ask what they tag a trailer like mine at with the one axle size up.

While I've seen some of these really light 6x12's, they obviously have less frame in them. Luckily I too have a triple tongue and 16" centers. Seems the OP has rode this rodeo before and also knew what he needed.

Mine is a 6X14 Had the upgrade to a 5,000# axel with breaks and 7 pin plug. Sticker says 3500# . Thinking that it's pretty standard
for the stickers for each size as they come off the line.
As I've kept mine as "No frills", weight is no problemo.

hank

[Grummy]

Mine is a 6X14 Had the upgrade to a 5,000# axel with breaks and 7 pin plug. Sticker says 3500# .

I guess that makes sense them putting 3500 when they use the 5000 axle given what they do with the 3500 axle (and 2990 sticker). I think for my brand trailer, the difference between the 6x12 and 6x14 was close to 200lbs more weight, so without the 5000lb axle, it makes it even harder to stick under 3500 without doing a lean conversion.

I guess that is what sparked my interest with the OP's project because I saw the references to "40 gallon waste tank, and 17 gallon fresh, shower", etc... That gets pretty tight with 3500lbs for my kind of "conversion".

Now I'm wondering... if they rate an axle at say, 3500lbs.... what is the safety margin ? Have they been tested to 5000 ? and 5000's tested to 7500? Wouldn't that be fun to know. But I better let this topic get back to the owner.

[flboy]

Interesting conversation... the builder on my trailer is suppose to reflect the increased GVWR on the sticker given the axle, brake , and upgraded tongue and etc.. We will see. In any case, some of the weight you put in the trailer is transferred to the the tow vehicle. I always thought they accounted for that with the sticker to the tune of 10 to 15 percent. Loaded trailer is 3500 lbs, but only 2990 on the trailer axle and on sticker.. This gives some margin to the trailer axle. I could be wrong?

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