Building your own water tank

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby BrwBier » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:01 am

I added text to show fill and sink drain locations. Also as inspired by Mad Jack, I am using a $25pump and faucet, seen if you look carefully at the picture. You can just see the hoses for testing the pump. It will pump down to about the last 1/2 gallon. There is also a drain for the fresh water for the end of trip, and when parked level, drains about 95% of the water. Its the same for both tanks. I had thought about a pressurized system but then you would have to seal the fill valve and I only want to use a pour in type valve. This will be mounted inside of a lower cabinet.
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Postby madjack » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:06 am

...on our setup we used a marine water deck fill which is mounted on the right hand side(curb/passenger) behind and slightly above the fender...for a sink, we used a SS steam table tray which has no drain...just lift and toss water on nearest bush....
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Postby Micro469 » Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:45 pm

BrwBier wrote:Fresh water tank and gray water tank
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ImageEach holds about 7 gallons


Are those going to be accessable if something goes worng??? :roll:
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Postby BrwBier » Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:23 am

Micro469 wrote:
BrwBier wrote:Fresh water tank and gray water tank
Image
Image
ImageEach holds about 7 gallons


Are those going to be accessable if something goes worng??? :roll:

I had thought of that also, but I figured that the plumbing in a house is not accessible and what could go wrong with a water tank. So the short answer is no. The pump area does have an access door. If the worst did happen I have the bottom mapped out so I could cut the floor from underneath and would then have a 4'x4' area to replace.
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Postby BobR » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:03 pm

I found a link to some different ideas on how to construct a tank out of wood and fiberglass. Enjoy.

http://www.butlerprojects.com/articles/tanks/index.htm
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Postby surveytech » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:16 pm

Bob........that was a short stay in Lakeland!
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Postby BobR » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:32 pm

surveytech wrote:Bob........that was a short stay in Lakeland!


About 4 years...Sha got a great job in Sarasota and it is closer to my area as well. We really liked Lakeland but ya gotta go when it is time.

The more I think about it...many are using fiberglass and epoxy to keep the water out of their TD's why not use it to keep the water in it.
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Postby Niall » Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:30 am

I was lazy and purchased mine from an RV store, 15 Gal with a large inlet , air vent and drain. I wanted the tank removeable ( clean tank = clean water ) so i made a tray for the tank, welded on a few hinges and nuts to bolt the thing up in place. Here's the tray.

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Postby Mark & Andrea Jones » Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:16 am

BrwBier wrote:It will pump down to about the last 1/2 gallon. There is also a drain for the fresh water for the end of trip, and when parked level, drains about 95% of the water. Its the same for both tanks. I had thought about a pressurized system but then you would have to seal the fill valve and I only want to use a pour in type valve. This will be mounted inside of a lower cabinet.


You could accomplish 100% drainage with a little slope to the pipe and strategic placement of the fill spout & drain area. Then you wouldn't have to worry about water (or grey water) staying in the "tank" and getting really funky over time. Yech! Not a nice thought. Then, how do you clean it when you can't get to it? A couple of strategic shims could work, unless there is no more vertical height of the space to work with. Retrofitting a few shims could be a problem, though. :thinking: Of course, if the slope is built into the way that the plastic pipe is glued initially, that would be better. Unless you've already done that, it is a little late in your build for that, though.


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Postby BrwBier » Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:50 am

The 95% is just an estimate. There is some slope built in, but you would have to be perfectly level, not likely at a dump station. For cleaning I use the same products I use to sterilize my brewing equipment, so their is no problem there. Even in commercial RV's you cant open the tank to physically clean them.
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Postby stedi » Sat Jan 20, 2007 1:10 pm

hi y'all,
i'm planning on a 4'-4.5' length of 8" pvc for my water tank. i also have a coleman hot water on demand that i'd like to integrate into my water system, but that's a little beside the point of my post. here goes: what fittings do i use on my homemade tank for fill, vent, outlet, & drain? also, do i need to provide a large access hole? like a cleanout? just don't know water tank etiquette-- thanks in advance for your help.
regards,
steve :snow
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Postby stedi » Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:15 pm

well if i ain't God's own thread killer!
the government does not produce one single bushel of corn, one single barrel of oil, or one unit of any other commodity. the only way it obtains the money that it awards to its chosen recipients is by taking it from others who earned it. this is called "voluntary taxation".
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Postby Micro469 » Tue Jan 23, 2007 7:45 pm

stedi wrote:well if i ain't God's own thread killer!


:lol: :lol:

Yea, I feel like that at times too..... Sorry I can't help with this one...
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Postby stedi » Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:09 pm

thanks for the thought, John. :D
steve
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Water Tank

Postby Sierrajack » Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:19 pm

Well, guess I can throw in my 2 cents worth. I went to www.tjtrailers and bought the 9 gallon tank which measures 8"x16"x18". I also got a kit that they recommend with the 1 1/4" gravity filler, 3/8"MPT draincock and 1 1/4" barb fill fitting. The best thing about this is that you can put the fittings anywhere you want and they even throw in a can of cement. The tank fits perfectly and is very easy to install. Hope this helps.
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