Kurfing Styrofoam

[Classic Finn]

Just wondering when kurfing styrofoam (Blue Stuff) and 50mm is 1.97 inches about. What depth and how wide is best to do so? I need to get a piece kurfed in the front lower radius of the Voyager...

Classic Finn

[Miriam C.]

I ran mine through the table saw. The one thing you have to do is put them through without stopping as they melt. They also send hot beads at you. Melted on in my glasses.

I left a 1/4 inch deep unkerfed and cut every 1 1/2 inches wide. The thing is if you want them even then you have to take the space and divide. You can do half on one side and turn it around to do the other side.

You have to hold it down so you need to keep you hands away from the blade. This stuff will shoot out from under and leave your hand near the blade.

Course if you use a circular saw those aren't issues. But it will probably still melt if you go too slow.

[Mary K]

OOOOH, Good question Heikki!!!

Now I know how to do it!!! Thanks Anutie M!!

Mk

[Miriam C.]

Oh yeah if your using a circular saw (skill type) you will need to clamp it down because it really doesn't provide much resistance and will probably shoot out. Trust me they can get some distance on them.

Long sleeves, high collar and safety glasses

[Mary K]

Oh yeah if your using a circular saw (skill type) you will need to clamp it down because it really doesn't provide much resistance and will probably shoot out. Trust me they can get some distance on them.

Long sleeves, high collar and safety glasses

I had a visual of the board flying across the street, getting some lift and landing on a neighbors roof...

Thanks for the warning, although I might see how far I can get one to fly at first...

Mk

[Arne]

I've been toying with this... kerfing a 4 ft wide piece of foam, or even a 2 foot wide piece accurately every 1.5 inches would be a real pain....

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

[Mary K]

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

Thats my plan... couple of weeks before I get to that point, let you know how it goes!!!

Mk

[bobhenry]

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

Thats my plan... couple of weeks before I get to that point, let you know how it goes!!!

Mk

go buy a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of pegboard insert 2 10 d finish nails thru the last row of holes top and bottom drive the nails thru the foam to hold it to a piece of plywood under your foam. Set your circular saw at 1/4" or 1/2" or whatever make a pass using the peg board edge as a guide. Shift 1 hole and repeat. By moving the nails once or twice it would be easy and fairly quick to do an entire 4x8 sheet of foam. Offset the nails 1/2" from the original start point and you could go back thru again and have every 1/2" if needed. If the shoe of your saw tries to jump the edge of the peg board , screw a piece of 1x2 to it. When your done you can have a new tool board.If you put foam behind the tool board on the wall the hooks will go in without hitting the wall studs and the board won't bounce and spit off your hooks either. Anyone near Frankfort Indiana that wants a pickup load of window cut out scrap 1/2" or 3/4" dow blue foam P.M. me. We give it away as scrap after we sheath the wall panels and cut out the windows and doors with the routers. Anyone near a wall panelizer just call they all have to get rid of window and door cut outs generall free and glad to get rid of it.

[Classic Finn]

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

Thats my plan... couple of weeks before I get to that point, let you know how it goes!!!

Mk

YUP I know MK will show it done in a hurry... She is just that way....

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

I've been toying with this... kerfing a 4 ft wide piece of foam, or even a 2 foot wide piece accurately every 1.5 inches would be a real pain....

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

This piece I got to do is only about 12 or 13 inches in width all together..
I could go with thinner and glue to bend it easier... Which is about 10mm
in thickness... I,ll do a couple of practice runs but I know MK will get it done without the practice even...

Classic Finn

[Classic Finn]

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

Thats my plan... couple of weeks before I get to that point, let you know how it goes!!!

Mk

go buy a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of pegboard insert 2 10 d finish nails thru the last row of holes top and bottom drive the nails thru the foam to hold it to a piece of plywood under your foam. Set your circular saw at 1/4" or 1/2" or whatever make a pass using the peg board edge as a guide. Shift 1 hole and repeat. By moving the nails once or twice it would be easy and fairly quick to do an entire 4x8 sheet of foam. Offset the nails 1/2" from the original start point and you could go back thru again and have every 1/2" if needed. If the shoe of your saw tries to jump the edge of the peg board , screw a piece of 1x2 to it. When your done you can have a new tool board.If you put foam behind the tool board on the wall the hooks will go in without hitting the wall studs and the board won't bounce and spit off your hooks either. Anyone near Frankfort Indiana that wants a pickup load of window cut out scrap 1/2" or 3/4" dow blue foam P.M. me. We give it away as scrap after we sheath the wall panels and cut out the windows and doors with the routers. Anyone near a wall panelizer just call they all have to get rid of window and door cut outs generall free and glad to get rid of it.

Thats some great advice.. Thank You, Gee I live so far away from Indiana it hurts...

Classic Finn

[Mary K]

I'd almost try a skil saw with a straight edge instead, with the foam marked every 1.5 inches.

Thats my plan... couple of weeks before I get to that point, let you know how it goes!!!

Mk

go buy a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of pegboard insert 2 10 d finish nails thru the last row of holes top and bottom drive the nails thru the foam to hold it to a piece of plywood under your foam. Set your circular saw at 1/4" or 1/2" or whatever make a pass using the peg board edge as a guide. Shift 1 hole and repeat. By moving the nails once or twice it would be easy and fairly quick to do an entire 4x8 sheet of foam. Offset the nails 1/2" from the original start point and you could go back thru again and have every 1/2" if needed. If the shoe of your saw tries to jump the edge of the peg board , screw a piece of 1x2 to it. When your done you can have a new tool board.If you put foam behind the tool board on the wall the hooks will go in without hitting the wall studs and the board won't bounce and spit off your hooks either. Anyone near Frankfort Indiana that wants a pickup load of window cut out scrap 1/2" or 3/4" dow blue foam P.M. me. We give it away as scrap after we sheath the wall panels and cut out the windows and doors with the routers. Anyone near a wall panelizer just call they all have to get rid of window and door cut outs generall free and glad to get rid of it.

Thats some great advice..

Yeah Good Idea huh???
Thanks Bob,

Thank You, Gee I live so far away from Indiana it hurts...

Classic Finn

Yeah me too....

Mk

[Ira]

I didn't have to kerf:

I just punched it in there.

[fornesto]

Utility Knife and straight edge? After all, it's foam not plywood.

[bobhenry]

Thicker foam on a tight radius my require removal of material in a shallow " v " using the peg board methor above with a shallow set " v " router bit may be a better answer for the problem !