Help in redesign

[Boodro]

Ok everyone, I am looking for ideas,suggestions,recommendations,bellybuttons ,or a**holes for some redesigning on my Dew Drop Inn! I will respect any & all ,& promise not to be offended by any of the above mentioned!

So I want to cut the top rear corner off , where the hinge is mounted to the top & do more of an arc to match the hatch . Can anyone do some Photoshop madness & show what it could look like.

I would also want ya'll to take into consideration on when I cut the flat top into an arc , would the hatch have to be completley rebuilt or could the arc from the hatch be matched & would the hatch have to be cut shorter or made longer??

What I see in doing this , remove the hinge , peel back the skin & underlayment ,remove the spar that the hinge is screwed to ,cut the sides to match the arc on the hatch , move or modify any thing inside , then lay the underlayment ,top & spar back down ,locate the hinge & adjust the hatch any way needed.





Ok , hit me with your best shot!

[Miriam C.]

If you are talking about taking that point off where the hatch meets then you should be fine. You may have to locate the hatch spar using the hatch it's self to do so. I think it will look lots better with a rounded curve.

[Keith B]

Our designs are fairly similar.. here's what mine looks like. Is that kinda what you're wanting to do.. keep a "flow" going.. I think you could retro yours.. but you will have to do some hatch work most likely?

[Gage]

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Ok , hit me with your best shot!

I know you probably don't want to hear from me, BUT.
If you want to save as much as you can but have a more flowing shape, then remove the hatch and put it in the trash. But save the hinge. Remove about two feet of the roof and at least one foot off the rear of the tear. Now, lay out a free flowing arc from the new roof point to the new (shorten) rear of the tear. Now come up just less than 4 feet from the floor along the arc and establish your hinge line and rebuild your hatch. Piece of cake. All you'll end up doing is: Cut one side, then create a template so as to cut the other side the same, reset the hinge and replace some missing roof skin, and rebuild the hatch.

You said hit me with your best shot_(you don't want my best shot, so you got my second best).

[jdarkoregon]

I'm with the "Gage camp" Go ahead and change the shape, but go all the way and make a new hatch to match the shape you want.

Trying to save some of the parts is good, but the wood, hummmm, trash it and start over. The second time around you'll go faster and do a better job of it

John

[Gage]

By the way, why don't you show a pic of the way it really looks. Aw, never mind. I'll post one for you.



My above posted recommendation still stands.

[martha24]

I'm with the "Gage camp" Go ahead and change the shape, but go all the way and make a new hatch to match the shape you want.

Trying to save some of the parts is good, but the wood, hummmm, trash it and start over. The second time around you'll go faster and do a better job of it

John

ditto
Better to get a shape you like and redo whatever you have to now then to finish and everytime you look at it not be happy. I know if I wasn't happy it would bug me to death. Just go for the changes you want and don't look back. Once its done you should have many happy hours of enjoyment. To get the shape we wanted we cut one side in cheap thin throw away wood that we could play with, draw on or whatever and get a shape we liked.
Martha

[toypusher]

OK, here is roughly what Gage is suggesting:

[Miriam C.]

If he cuts off the tail end he will have to cut the trailer frame too, right?????

Boo does your frame go all the way back?

I like Kerry's photo shop.

[Ira]

Needs crabs, that's all.

[goldcoop]

Kerry-

NICE photo smithing!

BUT shouldn't the shadow line change too?

Just busting ya!

Cheers,

Coop

[toypusher]

Kerry-

NICE photo smithing!

BUT shouldn't the shadow line change too?

Just busting ya!

Cheers,

Coop

Sorry, I was in a hurry at the time!!

[Boodro]

ALL RIGHT , that wasn't too bad folks!
Thanks for the replys !!!

Keith - Yea your right , Iam looking for a smoother flow . Thats why I asked all the pro's here!

Gage - I always like hearing form you , you tell it like it is & i agree with that style , I do the same, it saves on confusion & word games. What you described is what I was looking for , I'm not sure what you meant by the 4 foot mark. Maybe a drawing or pic if you can? Thanks.

Jdark - I think I'll go for it as soon as I get it all figured out!

Gage - thanks for the pic post!

Martha24 - Thanks , I did the original design before I put put enough thinkin into it! Should a done more thinkin!

Toypusher - THATS WHAT I'M TALKIN ABOUT!! Makes all the difference in the world when you can see it ! Thanks. Did you cut a foot off of it in the pic? It is 12 feet long from ther front of the body to the rear bumper.

Aunti M - Yes my frame goes all the back , but that should'nt be a problem . I can just cut the frame & reweld the cross member back on.

Ira - They have an oinment for that these days ya know!

I am trying to decide when to do this. Give up some camping time this spring or summer or wait till winter . Oh well I guess I have to make that call.

Thanks again to all the replys, it is great to have a place for this!

Keep it up Mike & Chell !

[toypusher]

.................Toypusher - THATS WHAT I'M TALKIN ABOUT!! Makes all the difference in the world when you can see it ! Thanks. Did you cut a foot off of it in the pic? It is 12 feet long from ther front of the body to the rear bumper.
............................:

I did not do anything to scale, but yes I did cut some off the rear. So, for it to look much like the photo, you would have to shorten it a bit.

[apratt]

Boodro, you could build tear #2 and still camp in #1 while building your 2nd one.