What to clean bare wood with after sanding?

[WarPony]

I'm getting to the point that I'm starting to sand putty spots and get the "fuzz" knocked off the outer skins before I stain.

What do you guys use to get all the dust off with? My first TTT, I used a tack cloth but found it left threads in the wood. Paper towels were even worse.

I don't have an air compressor ( ) so that's not an option. Maybe a sponge soaked in thinner????

Jeff

[Mary K]

I use a old but clean 100% cotten T-shirt and mineral spirits. Just damping the cloth a little, wipe down your wood, let it dry and there ya go.

Mk

[halfdome, Danny]

Jeff, It sounds like you need to do some more sanding starting with 100 grit, 120 grit and finish it off with 150 grit. I usually sand fairly slow and make 3 or more passes before going to the next finer grit of sandpaper. You'll get a superior finish that way. If you don't have a compressor use a horse hair fox tail followed with a tack cloth. Danny

[Scooter]

Vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment works well.

[Podunkfla]

Jeff, It sounds like you need to do some more sanding starting with 100 grit, 120 grit and finish it off with 150 grit. I usually sand fairly slow and make 3 or more passes before going to the next finer grit of sandpaper. You'll get a superior finish that way. If you don't have a compressor use a horse hair fox tail followed with a tack cloth. Danny

I agree with Danny... Plus, on most furniture, cabinets and such, I'll sand it to about 220 grit... then wet the wood with water to raise the grain. Let it dry and go from 120 grit to about 220 grit again. If it still isn't smooth, I may even do it a second time. Then I spray a light coat of whatever sealer I'm using (usually S-W vinyl sealer) and then sand off any nubbies. The wood is satin smooth and non-porous before I start putting on the final finish. A normal tac-rag does just fine then for me.
~ Brick

[WarPony]

Jeff, It sounds like you need to do some more sanding starting with 100 grit, 120 grit and finish it off with 150 grit.

HOLY CRAP!! I've been going striaght for the throat with 220 grit and lettin' her eat! I'm hand sanding this one, BTW. I have a B&D sander but it goes way too fast and the paper gets clogged up. I also don't like the pad the paper sits on either.
Maybe I'm rushing the sanding process......... my last woodwork class was about 24 years ago. Can't remember the processes.

If you don't have a compressor use a horse hair fox tail followed with a tack cloth.

Uhhhhh, a what tail?

Thanks Danny, for the info input.

Jeff

[halfdome, Danny]

Jeff, It sounds like you need to do some more sanding starting with 100 grit, 120 grit and finish it off with 150 grit.

HOLY CRAP!! I've been going striaght for the throat with 220 grit and lettin' her eat! I'm hand sanding this one, BTW. I have a B&D sander but it goes way too fast and the paper gets clogged up. I also don't like the pad the paper sits on either.
Maybe I'm rushing the sanding process......... my last woodwork class was about 24 years ago. Can't remember the processes.

If you don't have a compressor use a horse hair fox tail followed with a tack cloth.

Uhhhhh, a what tail?

Thanks Danny, for the info input.

Jeff

Jeff to get a swirl free finish your sander needs to go at least 10,000 rpm's and most don't go that fast so don't worry about it. The sanding experts say that generally speaking if you sand wood with higher grits above 180 grit your just polishing the wood. Starting with 100 grit will rid your project of the larger fuzz and each finer grit will lessen the fuzz. You can wet the wood slightly like Brick and others do but I have never had the need to go that route. A fox tail is also called a bench brush. The newer ones aren't as nice as ones made from natural horse hair. Patience is the key to a nice finish. Danny

[toypusher]

Along with what Brick and Danny have already said, I have used a really thinned down 'sanding sealer' to put on a very light coat and let it dry. That should bring out any 'hairs' or 'fuzzies' that are left and keep them stiff until they can be sanded off. The thinning ensures that the wood will still take stain. The sealer will also soak in a bit and help even out any stain that you put on afterwards.

[WarPony]

Yup, I'm rushing things too fast with the sandpaper grit, it sounds like. I'll get some different grits and give the sander another try.

Thanks for all the info/refresher course on sandpaper, guys.

Jeff

[toypusher]

Jeff,

What's going to be the final finish?? If you want a really 'deep' and shiny finish, try using high gloss for your first coat as it will show any scratches or other imperfections and you can go back and resand those areas. After the 2nd coat, use wet/dry (wet mode) paper in about 400 grit and then 600 or 800. After the 3rd coat wet/dry (wet) 800 and then 1000. Put on a 4th coat and you will be able to see the depth in it. If you get dust or bugs in any layer of finish, I recommend that you use a high grit wet/dry paper in wet mode to lightly sand them out.

JMOYMMV!!!

[Kstear]

Be very careful if using an air compressor to blow the dust off a wood working project. Many compressors will shoot oil onto the surface which will cause problems with epoxy, varnish and other finishes adhering to the wood properly.

[WarPony]

Man, I've really learned alot with this thread!!
One big thing I've learned is that my 1/4" ply that I thought was "Made In America" came from Cheena.....BOOOOOOOO!!! Just because it is sold by an American company doesn't mean the product is MADE in America............ I'm looking right at you Georgia Pacific!!!

After looking at the skin ply thickness (or thin-ness), I don't think that, after all the sanding, I will have anything to stain if I do the 3-step program that you guys do. I've been hand sanding tonight with 220 on a block and have been pretty satisfied with the "smoothness" that's came of it. I just ran my hand around the surface and resanded the "fuzzy" spots.

I really appreciate all the info everyone has given....... I mean that. I'm probably going to resand my #1 TTT and try to get a smoother finish on it............ someday.

Thanks, buddies!!

Jeff

[Podunkfla]

Man, I've really learned alot with this thread!!
One big thing I've learned is that my 1/4" ply that I thought was "Made In America" came from Cheena.....BOOOOOOOO!!! Just because it is sold by an American company doesn't mean the product is MADE in America............ I'm looking right at you Georgia Pacific!!!

After looking at the skin ply thickness (or thin-ness), I don't think that, after all the sanding, I will have anything to stain if I do the 3-step program that you guys do. I've been hand sanding tonight with 220 on a block and have been pretty satisfied with the "smoothness" that's came of it. I just ran my hand around the surface and resanded the "fuzzy" spots.

I really appreciate all the info everyone has given....... I mean that. I'm probably going to resand my #1 TTT and try to get a smoother finish on it............ someday.

Thanks, buddies!!

Jeff

Yep... Jeff, Sanding is one of those things woodworkers learn to hate... There is just so much of it to get to where we want to go. It's like you've done all this nice design, assembly and joinery... then comes the grunge work... sanding. It is not one of my favorite things to do... But, I usually don't trust anyone else to do it either. So, I crank up the music, get a beer (or 3), put the brain on autopilot... and get to sanding. It's always nice when you put on that first coat of sealer and get to see the grain pop... and get the first taste of what the finished product is going to look like. Anyhoo... thst's how it is for me.

Another thing is... Most customers, friends & non-woodworkers have no idea...
That the sanding and finishing often takes as much time or more than the building does.

[WarPony]

Well, I bought some different grits of sandpaper today and went to work. I handed sanded starting with some 3M Sandblaster 120-grit paper. I really like that stuff, it didn't clog easy and the grit lasted alot longer than I expected. After that, I used some regular 150-grit sandpaper on my B&D sander that I had started to hate and that process REALLY smoothed things out. Ran a floor brush over the wall and then wiped it down with a tack cloth and put on a coat of Minwax Colonial Maple stain. It looks very good and I don't see any "fuzz" on the surface like I had on my other TTT. I'll probably put on another coat and then use either Helmsman Spar Urathane or Clear Shield as a top coat in two or three layers.

Should be good enough for me and the girls I go out with !!!

Jeff