ALSO... always keep router FLAT on wood... other wise you get gouges......Don't ask me how I know all this...

mikeschn wrote:Router 101... nope, never took the course.. I butcher the wood with my router...
Maybe someone can tell me if I am doing this wrong, but I put the template on the work bench... I clamp the virgin plywood on top of the template, and then I just hack away at the plywood with a trim bit. (Kinda like a template, but upside down.)
Is there a better way to do that, or am I doing that right?
Mike...
Laredo wrote:Didn't Roly Nelson do a nice workshop on router 101 not too long ago?
Roly wrote:Scott, I 'm afraid you are asking the wrong guy to instruct you on router use. I am just a basic router user, have used one for years, often while working as a carpenter in the field.
Laredo wrote:Didn't Roly Nelson do a nice workshop on router 101 not too long ago?
Podunkfla wrote:mikeschn wrote:Router 101... nope, never took the course.. I butcher the wood with my router...
Maybe someone can tell me if I am doing this wrong, but I put the template on the work bench... I clamp the virgin plywood on top of the template, and then I just hack away at the plywood with a trim bit. (Kinda like a template, but upside down.)
Is there a better way to do that, or am I doing that right?
Mike...
I find using an offset base plate makes using a router a lot handier for most things. You can make your own pretty easily... but, the store bought ones are fairly cheap. I make mine from 3/8" plexy. It just really helps in keeping it flat on the work and lowers your grip which also helps in guiding the router too, I think. You keep most of the weight on the knob and just push the router with the other hand.
As for Mikes method (template on bottom)... It works pretty well with a bottom bearing bit. But, I find doing it with a top bearing bit and template on top works better for me. I like to see the work piece as I'm cutting. I also like to "hog off" most of the excess wood all but a 1/2 inch or so before I use the trim bit... with whatever is handy: skil saw, saber saw or even a reciprocating saw. Trim bits work best when they can get rid of the wood they cut off fast and not trap it in the bit. When they are cutting "surrounded" by wood, they tend to load up and cut poorly. The router cuts much faster and cleaner when you only have to trim off something less than the diameter of the bit idealy. Bits also last much longer when they don't overheat from getting loaded with chips too.
A spiral downcut bit does do this job even better because it gets rid of the chips out the bottom quickly. Downside is you have to use them with a guide bushing so they do not cut an exact replica of your pattern (which is OK if you make the pattern with this in mind).
Just some kindly input from an admitted router addict...
volfanatic72 wrote:In response to my own question, I'd like to suggest:
http://www.newwoodworker.com
There is a TON of good info on there for those of us who are a little challenged when it comes to woodworking.
Not only are there articles, but there are good video demonstrations as well!
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