Router 101???

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby Micro469 » Sat Jul 21, 2007 10:58 pm

Another thing to watch out for is the grain of the wood.I found when routing pieces that I cut curved, the router would actually snap out sections with the grain.Especially if removing a lot of wood.. eg- 1/2" or more. In this case i found it better to use a planer to remove excess wood and finish with the router.
ALSO... always keep router FLAT on wood... other wise you get gouges......Don't ask me how I know all this... :roll:
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Postby Podunkfla » Sat Jul 21, 2007 11:48 pm

mikeschn wrote:Router 101... nope, never took the course.. I butcher the wood with my router...

Maybe someone can tell me if I am doing this wrong, but I put the template on the work bench... I clamp the virgin plywood on top of the template, and then I just hack away at the plywood with a trim bit. (Kinda like a template, but upside down.)

Is there a better way to do that, or am I doing that right?

Mike...


I find using an offset base plate makes using a router a lot handier for most things. You can make your own pretty easily... but, the store bought ones are fairly cheap. I make mine from 3/8" plexy. It just really helps in keeping it flat on the work and lowers your grip which also helps in guiding the router too, I think. You keep most of the weight on the knob and just push the router with the other hand.

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As for Mikes method (template on bottom)... It works pretty well with a bottom bearing bit. But, I find doing it with a top bearing bit and template on top works better for me. I like to see the work piece as I'm cutting. I also like to "hog off" most of the excess wood all but a 1/2 inch or so before I use the trim bit... with whatever is handy: skil saw, saber saw or even a reciprocating saw. Trim bits work best when they can get rid of the wood they cut off fast and not trap it in the bit. When they are cutting "surrounded" by wood, they tend to load up and cut poorly. The router cuts much faster and cleaner when you only have to trim off something less than the diameter of the bit idealy. Bits also last much longer when they don't overheat from getting loaded with chips too.

A spiral downcut bit does do this job even better because it gets rid of the chips out the bottom quickly. Downside is you have to use them with a guide bushing so they do not cut an exact replica of your pattern (which is OK if you make the pattern with this in mind).

Just some kindly input from an admitted router addict...
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Postby Laredo » Sat Jul 21, 2007 11:59 pm

Didn't Roly Nelson do a nice workshop on router 101 not too long ago?
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Postby steve wolverton » Sun Jul 22, 2007 12:11 am

Laredo wrote:Didn't Roly Nelson do a nice workshop on router 101 not too long ago?


Belt sander. Sticky.

Roly wrote:Scott, I 'm afraid you are asking the wrong guy to instruct you on router use. I am just a basic router user, have used one for years, often while working as a carpenter in the field.
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Postby Podunkfla » Sun Jul 22, 2007 12:12 am

Laredo wrote:Didn't Roly Nelson do a nice workshop on router 101 not too long ago?

I remember reading and enjoying his good info on belt sanders... But, I must have missed seeing anything about routers? :o
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Postby Joanne » Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:40 am

Brick,

Thanks for the tips! I'm new to serious routing and posts like this really help me understand how to approach a given routing task.

I made a template for the face of my cabin cabinet. Since my bits have bottom bearings I had to use the template below the birch ply I was cutting. I think I would much prefer to be able to use a top mounted template so I could see what was happening. It seems like an additional benefit is that the router isn't sliding along the "good" wood, but rather on the cheaper template. I tried to be careful but still got a few scratches on the cheap birch ply from the router base.

Joanne

Podunkfla wrote:
mikeschn wrote:Router 101... nope, never took the course.. I butcher the wood with my router...

Maybe someone can tell me if I am doing this wrong, but I put the template on the work bench... I clamp the virgin plywood on top of the template, and then I just hack away at the plywood with a trim bit. (Kinda like a template, but upside down.)

Is there a better way to do that, or am I doing that right?

Mike...


I find using an offset base plate makes using a router a lot handier for most things. You can make your own pretty easily... but, the store bought ones are fairly cheap. I make mine from 3/8" plexy. It just really helps in keeping it flat on the work and lowers your grip which also helps in guiding the router too, I think. You keep most of the weight on the knob and just push the router with the other hand.

Image

As for Mikes method (template on bottom)... It works pretty well with a bottom bearing bit. But, I find doing it with a top bearing bit and template on top works better for me. I like to see the work piece as I'm cutting. I also like to "hog off" most of the excess wood all but a 1/2 inch or so before I use the trim bit... with whatever is handy: skil saw, saber saw or even a reciprocating saw. Trim bits work best when they can get rid of the wood they cut off fast and not trap it in the bit. When they are cutting "surrounded" by wood, they tend to load up and cut poorly. The router cuts much faster and cleaner when you only have to trim off something less than the diameter of the bit idealy. Bits also last much longer when they don't overheat from getting loaded with chips too.

A spiral downcut bit does do this job even better because it gets rid of the chips out the bottom quickly. Downside is you have to use them with a guide bushing so they do not cut an exact replica of your pattern (which is OK if you make the pattern with this in mind).

Just some kindly input from an admitted router addict...
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Postby volfanatic72 » Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:47 pm

In response to my own question, I'd like to suggest:

http://www.newwoodworker.com

There is a TON of good info on there for those of us who are a little challenged when it comes to woodworking.

Not only are there articles, but there are good video demonstrations as well!
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Postby Podunkfla » Sun Jul 22, 2007 10:08 pm

volfanatic72 wrote:In response to my own question, I'd like to suggest:

http://www.newwoodworker.com

There is a TON of good info on there for those of us who are a little challenged when it comes to woodworking.

Not only are there articles, but there are good video demonstrations as well!

Yep... I agree... Lots of good tips and how-to's here:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/tipstrksdi ... routerjigs
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Postby PaulC » Mon Jul 23, 2007 3:36 am

[quote="Joanne"]Only if you live south of the equator! :lol: :lol:
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Postby Roly Nelson » Tue Jul 31, 2007 2:48 pm

Nope, no Router 101, just a bit about the belt sander. The reason for this is if you lop off a finger with the router, I may get a letter from your lawyer, but if you goof with the belt sander, all you lose is some skin, which may not be worthy of a law suit.

They do print some worthwhile books about the use of routers, which I have leafed through, but don't own any. Good luck, and remember, always use eye and ear protection along with chainmail gloves and body armor..........:-)

Roly, a multiple router owner and user. ;)
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