My Giant Teardrop build

Design & Construction of anything that's not a teardrop e.g. Grasshoppers or Sunspots

Postby Ivar the Red » Tue May 20, 2008 9:49 pm

Nitetimes wrote:Are you really going to make that poor girl squeeze into a 22" wide bed???? :shock: :shock: :shock:
If she rolls over too fast she's likely to break her nose or one of her appendages, come on, be nice, give her a little elbow room!!!! :thinking: :lol:

Unlike some companies, we here at Morsund Teardrop Works,Inc. say NO plans are final. :lol:
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Postby Nitetimes » Tue May 20, 2008 9:59 pm

Ivar the Red wrote:Unlike some companies, we here at Morsund Teardrop Works,Inc. say NO plans are final. :lol:


You're one up on me, I never have any plans to finalize!! :lol: :lol:
Usually seat of the pants type work! 8) :lol: :lol:
Rich


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Postby toypusher » Mon May 26, 2008 5:44 am

Johnny???

You had a nice long weekend and should have been working on this!! 8)
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Postby Ivar the Red » Mon May 26, 2008 1:43 pm

ok ok ok...I was just out there, playing with old "rusty bucket" and wishing that media basting wasn't out of the budget. Then I thought "Is this really needed?". The rust is not really thick and not pitted or anything, so I was wondering, could I just lay on a good coat of rustoleum and roll with it? Thoughts? :thinking:
Last edited by Ivar the Red on Tue May 27, 2008 5:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby del » Mon May 26, 2008 2:17 pm

Ivar the Red wrote:ok ok ok...I was just out there, playing with old "rusty bucket" and wishing that media basting wasn't out of the budget. Then I thought "Is this really needed?". The rust is not really thick and not pitted or anything, so I was wondering, could I just lay on a good coat of rustoleum and roll with it? Thoughts? :thinking:













'
My experience with rust is you have to get rid of it completely, or it returns quickly. Wire brush attachment on your grinder (face shield recommended, or you may have new steel bristles adding themselves to your beard), may be a less expensive alternative. There are rust products that "kill" the rust, but I have never used them. Sorry my rust experience is limited living out here in the dessert.

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Postby del » Mon May 26, 2008 2:29 pm

Take a look at the spartan build, maybe you could hire her to clean your frame.
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Postby looped » Mon May 26, 2008 3:51 pm

look into lowes, they have cans of rust oleum "rust converter" there are other brands of converter stuff out there as well, have used it in the past with good success. the rust oleum stuff is the only one that is tinted that i could find (black)
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Postby Eddielbs » Mon May 26, 2008 4:13 pm

If the rust is not Pitted or bubbled up I would just use some Ospho! It converts the surface rust and kills it Then you can paint right over it. I got a gallon for like 15 bucks..

here is a link on the stuff
http://www.ospho.com/
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Postby Ivar the Red » Tue May 27, 2008 5:21 am

The wifey did a little surfing and came up with this stuff. rust convertor Has anyone tried something like this?
Johnny
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Postby Eddielbs » Tue May 27, 2008 7:40 am

We use this product Rust Restore a lot offshore for rust repair.. I used it on my frame after a cote of Ospho the above mentioned product then I primed a painted...

Before Ospho
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After Ospho
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Rust convertor -- how about remover?

Postby LesterS » Tue May 27, 2008 11:12 am

The best stuff around for rust removal short of alot of elbow grease and a wire brush cup on a side grinder...

NAVAL JELLY - (You can get it at Ace Hardware and other places.)

I figure if it's good enough for steel ships its good enough for me!

It lets you remove rust and some scale just by brushing it on, and hosing it off. (Kinda like paint remover.)

It will strip the rusty spots down to blue metal, and when dry you can just paint over it! (Be sure to use a real good red-oxide or similar rust-proof primer).

I'd chip off any heavy scale, hit it lightly with the brush then soak it with a coat of the jelly, rinse, dry it -- and then primer away!

Good luck!
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Postby pete.wilson » Tue May 27, 2008 11:39 am

Hey

Another product that works is a high-Tech coating called POR-15, stops rust permanently but it's not UV protective. There is two other similar products called blackcote and Chassis Cote which run about $47 qt. expensive- yes. Used for Jeep frames and bodies. Can be purchased through Quadratec @ 800-745-5337 Free Catalog. They can provide you more information on the stuff.

Another Suggestion might to have it Rhino-lined if rust is concerned.

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got a REALLY BIG Tub?

Postby SuperTroll » Tue May 27, 2008 1:16 pm

remove the rust electricly...

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/e ... crust.html


Now I know what you must be thinkin'....BUT....COULD IT BE DONE!?



(Seriously...use this to remove rust from all the smaller parts, like the leaf springs and the wheels......)...the Frame...that's a whole nuther thing...(Maybe a big plastic sheet inside a 2X12 Frame to hold the Liquid; the frame would be soaked AFTER you chop it down to size and remove the axles and wheels...?)
Keep thinking outside the box and all manner of ideas will become reality......

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Eliminate the Tow vehicle!

Postby SuperTroll » Tue May 27, 2008 1:20 pm

from another thread....

MOTORIZE the Trailer!

like this: http://www.shorey.net/Auto/Miscellaneou ... ionier.jpg
Keep thinking outside the box and all manner of ideas will become reality......

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Postby Ivar the Red » Sun Jun 01, 2008 2:58 am

A little progress to report.
Point A:
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Point A after a little sanding:
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Point B:
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The stuff in the can is from Kleen Strip, it's a rust convertor like advised here before, but late Saturday in small town Oklahoma, that's all I could find. It is in the automotive dept. at wally world, we'll see. I also used this as an excuse to buy a new tool, I got a new grinder to smooth out the really rough spots where there had been other stuff welded to the frame. :thumbsup: 8)
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