Rivet skin panels together?

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Rivet skin panels together?

Postby shoeman » Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:29 pm

Has anybody used rivets to join aluminum panels together for their skin? I know we've discussed sealing and screwing panels together to form the roof.
I'm going to be piecing mine together from 5' wide pieces cut from 4x8 sheets and I'm having a hard time figuring out what method to use to join the pieces. I'll be using .040" skin with no sub-layer. Pop rivets could lend a real cool aircraft look I think. They key will be getting rivets of the correct length for this thin material.
Any thoughts or ideas??

Geoff
99% of the way done with a Generic Benroy. Only because these might never be done if you like to tinker. But it's on the road!
User avatar
shoeman
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 162
Images: 22
Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:03 am
Location: Bangor, Me.

Postby madjack » Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:48 pm

Geoff, your biggest problem doing it thataway is getting a good watertite seal...with the use of rivets and an auto body panel adhesive, it would probably work OK...my preference for such, is to overlap the sheets a couple of inches over a spar(no underlayment), use an automotive urethane sealer(auto windshield sealant) and insert a screw every couple of inches, with the use of a round head, SS screw, it give a riveted look and I know it will seal against the weather...I also predrill the screw holes and shoot a dab of sealant into the holes....
madjack 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana

Postby Dale M. » Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:54 pm

Why not.... Aircraft are riveted together.. that being said... Pop rivets are a rather poor choice as the are not sealed.... Moisture can weep through center hole and around ball end of rivet shank to allow a real leak in your skin....

Also you will have to develop a method of sealing the two layers of skin together and not cause any buckling of skin materials between rivets....

Generally to have a real good finish is to drill all holes and remove any burrs from drilling from between two sheets and work out any imperfections and using something like "Cleco" fasteners to stabilize all parts before you actually insert and pull rivets.... Also with number of rivets you need to install consider power rivet tools.... The quality of rivet job will be better than you can do with hand tools...

Suggest you explore the many type for rivets available for various applications. You may find the generic hardware store "pop" rivet lacking for your application..n Another phrase you may want to investigate is "blind rivets"...

Dale
Lives his life vicariously through his own self.

Any statement made by me are strictly my own opinion.
You are free to ignore anything I say if you do not agree.

Image
User avatar
Dale M.
2000 Club
2000 Club
 
Posts: 2693
Images: 18
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:50 pm
Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite National Park
Top

Postby boardhead » Sun Jul 20, 2008 3:20 pm

I like madjacks method of joining the panels with caulk and stainless steel screws. If you ever need to take it back apart for repair, replacement, or modification, removing and replacing screws is much easier.
User avatar
boardhead
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 59
Images: 16
Joined: Wed May 03, 2006 8:36 pm
Location: Tigard, OR
Top

Postby Nobody » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:51 am

I used the same method as madjack & it has worked great thru 2yrs & several thousand miles.

Here's what mine looks like. There's another 'joint' exactly the same (except faces the other direction ;) ) just in front of the fantastic vent
Image
Harvey -

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Doing the right thing ain't always easy but, . . . it's always right!
User avatar
Nobody
1000 Club
1000 Club
 
Posts: 1196
Images: 342
Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:09 pm
Location: Benton, Arkansas
Top

Postby shoeman » Mon Jul 21, 2008 8:55 am

Yeah, screws make the most sense. I can add spars as needed to align with the panel seams and make it simple.
Stainless screws are a neccesity I'd say for this job. Got to see if the orange boxes have any on the shelf.
On a side note, I cut one side panel to fit yesterday and it went easily. I borrowed a Kett metal shear from a friend that made cutting the door out very simple. Do I just rely on all the trim (door, floor, roof) and hinge to hold the sides on?
99% of the way done with a Generic Benroy. Only because these might never be done if you like to tinker. But it's on the road!
User avatar
shoeman
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 162
Images: 22
Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:03 am
Location: Bangor, Me.
Top

Postby QuietOutdoorsman » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:30 am

Aircraft aluminum skin joins typically have 3 rows of bucked rivets and very often have an internal stringer common to the skin lap joint. And everything is all covered with sealant. Of course the airplanes I'm most familiar with, that lap joint has to be air tight and able to hold pressure near 14 psi.

So MadJack's recommendation isn't that far off from actual aircraft design. ;) Definitely pre-drill and deburr all the holes and run a good bead of sealant in the overlap of the panels. A plain steel screw will eventually react with the aluminum and cause corrosion (in the aluminum), but a good quality stainless screw should be ok.

Dirk
QuietOutdoorsman
Teardrop Advisor
 
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:46 pm
Location: Everett, Wa
Top

Postby madjack » Mon Jul 21, 2008 9:46 am

Shoe, the SS screws can be expensive from a box store, I get mine from FASTENAL...here is a list of locations nearest you http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.e ... r&state=ME ...you may have other bulk fasteners suppliers in your area...
madjack 8)
...I have come to believe that, conflict resolution, through violence, is never acceptable.....................mj
User avatar
madjack
Site Admin
 
Posts: 15128
Images: 177
Joined: Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:27 pm
Location: Central Louisiana
Top

Postby BPFox » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:17 am

I used rivets on my first trailer and I wouldn't hesitate to use them again. That said, it kind of depends on what you are fastening your skin to. In my case, I was attaching directly to 1" square tubing. If you are attaching to wood, screws are the way to go. On a side note, I didn't bother to seal my pop rivet heads since the holes did not penetrate the inside of the trailer. I suppose eventually the metal frame could rust out, but after 15 years, there is no real sign of this. I will soon find out, however, since this trailer will be scrapped to provide a platform for my new trailer.
User avatar
BPFox
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:41 pm
Location: Saginaw, MI
Top

Postby Jim55 » Mon Jul 21, 2008 10:18 am

Yes, one can use rivets. But, having built homebuilt aircraft, I can testify that rivets vary much in strenght. Check John Monnett's Sonex website for good information on "blind" or "pop" rivets.

Conqueror's Commander is one of the most well built campers I have ever seen. I was fortunately to walk through their factory a few months ago. They build for the off-road market, where sealing for dust is important. --- :shock: And they rivet their panels on! They use rivets with very large heads. --- Looks almost like buttons. I have no idea where they get these.

Photos of the Commander are at: http://www.callofafricatours.com/offroad01.htm
and
http://www.safaricentre.co.za/Conqueror.htm
These photos do not do justice to the camper. It really is something to see!

Jim
Jim55
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 35
Images: 1
Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:19 am
Location: Canada
Top

Postby shoeman » Mon Jul 21, 2008 11:06 am

madjack wrote:Shoe, the SS screws can be expensive from a box store, I get mine from FASTENAL...here is a list of locations nearest you http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.e ... r&state=ME ...you may have other bulk fasteners suppliers in your area...
madjack 8)


Dang! That's about 3 miles from me. I was just in that neighborhood shopping for electrical parts and stuff. I'll have to check them out. I'm wondering if the rivet-look nails that the Teardrop Repair Shop would work? I may have to give him a call and see what he thinks.
99% of the way done with a Generic Benroy. Only because these might never be done if you like to tinker. But it's on the road!
User avatar
shoeman
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 162
Images: 22
Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:03 am
Location: Bangor, Me.
Top

Rivet skin panels together?

Postby durant29 » Thu Jul 24, 2008 10:04 am

How about if you already have riveted panels, and you want to re-seal (or just seal in the first place) the joints? Has anyone had experience with a product that would "wick" in between the already assembled skins, then set-up so as to seal / reseal the skins?
Tony B.
durant29
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:14 pm
Location: Pomona, California
Top

Postby mikeschn » Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:09 pm

Here's food for thought...

Image

Image

Mike...
The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
User avatar
mikeschn
Site Admin
 
Posts: 19202
Images: 475
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 11:01 am
Location: MI
Top


Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests