Top to teardrop

[Dragonryder]

Has anyone used the rubber membrane covers for the top of their teardrop? I need to attach it to plywood. What do you guys use to cover the wood? I'm not covering my tear with aluminum, I'm just painting it. At least for now. I found a brush/roll on rubber for roofs that is supposed to work. Any one have any other ideas?

[mikeschn]

It's not much but here's a tidbit on alternative skinning...

http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

You might want to PM Bev for details on her PVC or Chip for details on his TPO.

Mike...

[mechmagcn]

I hope to install the EPDM rubber roof on my tear by this weekend. The material I have is left over from a RV roof job, but you might find some scraps at a roofing co. that installs rubber roofs. A teardrop roof really doesn't require that much material.

[Dragonryder]

I've heard of the Dr. Rot CPES. I think it is a bit pricey by the time you buy the filler, CPES and top coat. I'm guessing I would need the two gallons. Ouch!!! 184 dollars for 2 gallons. I guess anything you pick will probably be pricey.

I was thinking of using Kilz exterior house paint on the walls but I need something to seal the seams on the roof. I figure that I paint my garage with exterior paint and it is over ten years old. I'd like to eventually put aluminum on it but that will have to wait for another year or so. I was reading where someone was putting the rubber membrane on their camper and was wondering if that would work on a teardrop.

Just kicking around some different ideas.

[Cliffmeister2000]

I've heard of the Dr. Rot CPES. I think it is a bit pricey by the time you buy the filler, CPES and top coat. I'm guessing I would need the two gallons. Ouch!!! 184 dollars for 2 gallons. I guess anything you pick will probably be pricey.

I am in process with the Rot Doctor products. Have one coat of CPES (took over 1/2 gallon of mixed product to cover once), and using the FILL-IT epoxy fill now. It is hot here, so I am mixing very small amounts and working fast. I did about 75% of the fill last night, it was sandable this morning. Will finish the fill process tonight, sanding this weekend, use the balance of the CPES to coat the sanded areas. Next weekend will be the application of the Uniflex 255 Aliphatic top coat. I have 2 gallons.

It is expensive, but as I read about so many folks having water issues that I don't want to have, I want to make sure I have done everything I can to do this part right the first time.

[b.bodemer]

I'm building a convertible td and for sure wanted to protect the edges of the side walls.

I decided on epoxy. I have a Rockler store near me and picked up some West System epoxy. Matter of fact it worked so nice I used epoxy on the exterior surfaces as well.

You can then paint over the epoxy...............

Barb

[Cliffmeister2000]

Just to make sure I was clear, all the Rot Doctor products I mentioned are epoxy based.

[Dragonryder]

Hey Cliffmeister2000, If you were able to do your camper with 1 gallon of CPES, I probably could do mine with that much. Your tear looks to be about the same size as mine. I hear ya on the wanting to get it right. Not that there aren't other effective methods out there but I have heard so many good things about this product (Rot Dr.). I think I will save the money up and get this product. I just want this camper to last. I'm thinking that I probably won't be ready until sometime late fall or early winter. With the winters we have here in Ohio, I probably won't be able to put a good coat on it until early spring. No big deal really, I don't want to rush it at this point in the game.

Be sure to let me know what you think about it.

[Cliffmeister2000]

With the winters we have here in Ohio, I probably won't be able to put a good coat on it until early spring. No big deal really, I don't want to rush it at this point in the game.

The CPES has a consistancy like water, or turpentine. How much it takes is a component of the square footage you are covering and the thirstiness of the wood being applied to. Also how much end-grain you are applying it to, as end grain is thirstier.

There is a cold weather formula of CPES made specifically for OHIO.

I will have used $108 worth of this by the time I'm done.

Oh, yeah, you will lose a bit onto the floor because this stuff is runny, so cover the floor if you care. If you use it in an enclosed area, wear a good mask. It wasn't too bad in my open garage applying it, but the garage is bug free now, I'll guarantee! Man that stuff puts out the fumes as it cures!

http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

[len19070]

I hope to install the EPDM rubber roof on my tear by this weekend. The material I have is left over from a RV roof job, but you might find some scraps at a roofing co. that installs rubber roofs. A teardrop roof really doesn't require that much material.

I'm with Jeff on this one. This stuff is great. Its a sheet good and the only way it can leak is if you have a physical hole in it. Cheaper than Aluminum (if you can find certain aluminum widths), very forgiving, Goes on easy, if you goof up you can pull it up and do it over (as long as the glue is still wet,,,apx 1hr) No thin spots, a guarantee. You can buff it with Protect-all and it comes up "Shiny"





The stuff's around, you can get it here in small amounts, http://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/catalog ... ct_id=1883

and (for such a small amount) ask them to fold it (saves on shipping)....BUT open it as soon as you get it and roll it up.

But as others have stated, check with an RV dealer or roofer for scraps or left-overs.

I have years of experience with this stuff, as I'm sure Jeff has as well.

BTW I'm and Master Certified RV Tech too.

Happy Trails

Len

[Hoosier Greg]

I am also going to use a comercial grade rubber roof on my build.
The benefits I see beside already mentioned is that I will not have to worry about road dings on the rubber.

Greg.

[prohandyman]

I used rubber roofing that is installed on RVs. Bought a remnant piece from a RV dealer, as well as the glue they use. Worked very well, and is paintable!

[Dragonryder]

I didn't know that you could paint it. I would like to match the rest of the camper. I've seen this type of roof in action. I guess I should specify what I'm talking about, the rubber roof. My sister lived in a trailer for a year and they put this stuff on a flat roof. They never had any problems with it. What type of paint can you use on it? I see that some of you have it in white. That wouldn't be so bad.

Thanks to all of you for the input. It never fails to amaze me how many ideas are out there. You are all very talented and I'm very excited to be a part of this forum.

Thank you and keep'em coming!!!

[mechmagcn]

Uh, correct me if I'm wrong, but I have seen very little that will stick to an EPDM rubber membrane. Another consideration, if any solvents are used, the membrane will fail, I have replaced several where folks have rolled on a topcoat of sealer the was solvent based and the membrane just fell apart.
If you use the EPDM, only use the suggested glue, a water based product, and I only use the Dicor lap sealant for any seams and to seal around trim.
The EPDM rubber membrane is some great stuff if used and cared for properly, but the application of the wrong cleaners or other chemicals can ruin it quickly.
I'm not trying to scare anyone away from this product, just giving a heads-up before mistakes are made.

[Cliffmeister2000]

Uh, correct me if I'm wrong, but I have seen very little that will stick to an EPDM rubber membrane. Another consideration, if any solvents are used, the membrane will fail, I have replaced several where folks have rolled on a topcoat of sealer the was solvent based and the membrane just fell apart.
If you use the EPDM, only use the suggested glue, a water based product, and I only use the Dicor lap sealant for any seams and to seal around trim.
The EPDM rubber membrane is some great stuff if used and cared for properly, but the application of the wrong cleaners or other chemicals can ruin it quickly.
I'm not trying to scare anyone away from this product, just giving a heads-up before mistakes are made.

I have also heard that this must be applied to un-treated and unsealed wood. In your experience, is this correct?