Am I missing something?

[satch]

I agree with Rich. Since he has mastered the art of Wally World parking lot repair jobs, he should know his TDs

[starleen2]

Well...since we're all here and on this subject, let me ask. Do I need 2X4's for a floor frame that hangs out past the trailer frame about 12 to 14 inches? If so, should they be upright, or flat?

Johnny, mine overhangs about 14 inches past the trailer frame with no other support - I used 3/4 inch ply for the floor - no sag yet

[Ivar the Red]

Well...since we're all here and on this subject, let me ask. Do I need 2X4's for a floor frame that hangs out past the trailer frame about 12 to 14 inches? If so, should they be upright, or flat?

Johnny, mine overhangs about 14 inches past the trailer frame with no other support - I used 3/4 inch ply for the floor - no sag yet

Ok, Scott, I know you and Rich have looked at my build thread so, even with the extra length and more wall space, is it still feasible to go with out the frame?

[Jst83]

I must be different I bolted the plywood right to the frame and built stud wall on top of that. I've thought on another one I'd frame about 6" or 7" off that frame to put in a full basement that accessed from the outside by multiple doors.
But I would have to agree why build a frame floor when the trailer is the frame.

[Juneaudave]

Uhh...I didn't listen too well...but I know why I did what I did...

When I started...I thought about it alot and had some requirements that were important to me...

I wanted a 4 season camper suitable to the wet cold Juneau, Alaska weather...so...I wanted insulation in the floor, walls, and ceiling...

This is a hobby for me and time wasn't an issue. I wanted to build really sealed tight. My ideal Tear would be something that would stand the test of time and still be around for my daughters and grandkids...

I was comfortable with my thoughts on how I wanted to build...I wasn't real comfortable with a sheet of ply with black goo..

Uhh...Did I overbuild?...Most definately...Am I happy about what I did?...Pretty much...Would I do a more traditional ply floor?...Maybe, after I get some experience on trailer two, three or four..

Here's what I ended up with. 1 inch foam...5/4 ripped frame...1/4 ACX bottom...3/8 birch ply top...glassed...What a dance floor!!!

[jplock]

I have 1/2" plywood flooring attached directly to frame. This design has been on the road for 2 years now with about 10,000 trouble free miles.


1/2" BC Plywood attached with panel adhesive and zinc coated countersunk head screws

another view of plywood attached directly to frame

Prefab wall framing attached to floor with screws and titebond glue.

Finished framing attached to trailer.
jplock

[Nitetimes]

Well...since we're all here and on this subject, let me ask. Do I need 2X4's for a floor frame that hangs out past the trailer frame about 12 to 14 inches? If so, should they be upright, or flat?

Johnny, mine overhangs about 14 inches past the trailer frame with no other support - I used 3/4 inch ply for the floor - no sag yet

Ok, Scott, I know you and Rich have looked at my build thread so, even with the extra length and more wall space, is it still feasible to go with out the frame?

OK, here's my assessment of the situation.
If you are going to have, scratch that, you are going to have your walls sitting directly on the ply that is sitting directly on the frame so if you use a good attachment between the floor and front and rear walls and floor you should be able to fore go the framework under the floor provided you also use a good attachment between the sidewalls and the floor.
Something with lots of glue and screws would be my first choice.
I don't see it really being that tough to do but you could always use 1X3's laid on their side every couple of feet for insurance and it will also give you something to attach your ply to where it buts together.

[starleen2]

Well...since we're all here and on this subject, let me ask. Do I need 2X4's for a floor frame that hangs out past the trailer frame about 12 to 14 inches? If so, should they be upright, or flat?

Johnny, mine overhangs about 14 inches past the trailer frame with no other support - I used 3/4 inch ply for the floor - no sag yet

Ok, Scott, I know you and Rich have looked at my build thread so, even with the extra length and more wall space, is it still feasible to go with out the frame?

Ditto with Rich - Based on your sketch, you should be just fine with 3/4 ply for a floor and with no subfloor.. With the lenght that your talking about, 3/4 ply multiplied is very strong. mine is 10 ft length walls glued and screwed from the bottom up (from the floor into the wall) 14 inches over the frame the entire length. The wall sitting on the 3/4 plywood flooring. My walls are 3/8 ply with 3/4 strips and 1/8 paneling (also with foam insulation) very strong wall and lightweight. The entire wall acts as a carrier for the floor as well. Use the plywood to your advantage. Its hard to twist it when all four edges are secured. The same principle will keep the floor from sagging - to a point. The extera framing under the trailer might be overkill IMO

[jamesm]

I needed the extra space for insulation, it gets a bit chilly up here in the winter, I was really thinking of standing the 2X4's on edge for even more space for the foam sheets. I have 3/4" ply on the bottom 1 1/2" of foam and 1/2' ply on top, mostly for to keep out the cold. Jim G

Dito for me...granted it does not get cold here...but I like to camp in the snow. So I built it like that also...plus it was left over construction material I was given for free.

[Gage]

I needed the extra space for insulation, it gets a bit chilly up here in the winter, I was really thinking of standing the 2X4's on edge for even more space for the foam sheets. I have 3/4" ply on the bottom 1 1/2" of foam and 1/2' ply on top, mostly for to keep out the cold. Jim G

Dito for me...granted it does not get cold here...but I like to camp in the snow. So I built it like that also...plus it was left over construction material I was given for free.

You need to rethink that. I've camped in the snow and cold (below freezing in Utah & Colorado) several times. Snug as a bug in a rug and no insulation underneath. But I also don't camp in Alaska so I can understand why Dave added insulation. I do have insulation in my walls and roof for those extra cold nights. It also helps to keep the inside cool durning the hot summer.

So tell me Jamesm. Do you really have 1 1/2" of insulation in your floor?

Like I said, I think 2x4 framing is to much and really not needed for the average teardrop build. If I was to insulate my floor, I would start with a sheet of 1/4" birch, add 1/2" framing and insulation and another sheet of 1/4" birch. And if assembled correctly, would make for a strong light weight floor.

[looped]

i built mine with a 2x4 frame due to the box portion of the trailer being 42 wide by 36 long and my floor is 42 wide and 61 long with quite a bit of overhang to the front. another reason is i have the sidewalls overlapping the frame sides and they are screwed/glued on the sides to secure them so i wanted a larger bite area.

click for larger,, this is aproximately the overhang




now this bit i will admit might be a little overkill but i have no regrets.

it is a spacer made to give a solid resting point onto the tongue and was drilled out to accept a U bolt

click for 800x600




and the hole is center front on the floor




I also have an oval cut through the floor and frame to access the nuts for the u bolt this hole is also where the wires come out of the wall and pass under the floor to ride the tongue to the hitch.

[jamesm]

I needed the extra space for insulation, it gets a bit chilly up here in the winter, I was really thinking of standing the 2X4's on edge for even more space for the foam sheets. I have 3/4" ply on the bottom 1 1/2" of foam and 1/2' ply on top, mostly for to keep out the cold. Jim G

Dito for me...granted it does not get cold here...but I like to camp in the snow. So I built it like that also...plus it was left over construction material I was given for free.

You need to rethink that. I've camped in the snow and cold (below freezing in Utah & Colorado) several times. Snug as a bug in a rug and no insulation underneath. But I also don't camp in Alaska so I can understand why Dave added insulation. I do have insulation in my walls and roof for those extra cold nights. It also helps to keep the inside cool durning the hot summer.

So tell me Jamesm. Do you really have 1 1/2" of insulation in your floor?

Like I said, I think 2x4 framing is to much and really not needed for the average teardrop build. If I was to insulate my floor, I would start with a sheet of 1/4" birch, add 1/2" framing and insulation and another sheet of 1/4" birch. And if assembled correctly, would make for a strong light weight floor.

Yup a whole 1 1/2" I did camp in Fairbanks in a homemade camper up there for a whole winter in -30 to -40 some nights. The cold coming from below was rough. I buillt another floor over that one and ended up with 3" of insulation. It did make a difference.
But all in all to each his own. If I build another camper I will probally build a floor again with 1 1/2" of insulation.

I agree with you this is way overkill on the average teardrop build.
edit...Like I said before the materials were free...My benroy is built with mostly left over stuff. I was not worries about the weight, but the cost!

You can see how thick my floor is.

[Arne]

I went with 1.5" wood/insul in the floor because I got rid of most of the x-members in the trailer... needed the 1.5" for bridge beam strength from one side rail to the other. 5' wide, no flex in the floor...

[Ivar the Red]

I went with 1.5" wood/insul in the floor because I got rid of most of the x-members in the trailer... needed the 1.5" for bridge beam strength from one side rail to the other. 5' wide, no flex in the floor...

I don't think I'll have that problem, my frame is just a tad bit heavier duty than your average, run of the mill ute trailer.

[let's went]

Like several of you have mentioned we built an insulated floor to better enable winter camping. It is a sandwich with xynole covered 1/8" ply, 3/4 foam and 1/4" ply top. I now wonder if the insulation was overkill. How do you all balance the need to stay warm with the need to keep vents and windows open for fresh air? It seems like these values are in conflict. Obviously, there are other means to stay warm. An extra blanket seems alot more simple and cheap than an insulated floor.