Ideas please for a drop-floor mechanism

[S. Heisley]

Here's another idea: Instead of dropping the floor in the center, why not have pull-out trailer sides (in the door area, from the front to the wheel) with a drop floor in the pull-out part? That way, you end up with a walking/dressing aisle on either side of the small trailer's bed and a person is less likely to trip or fall on a recessed floor. It might be less weight, too.

[john]

Going with the one man operation condition got me thinking about pop ups.

Perhaps a hand crank similar to the ones used on boat trailers could be mounted on the tongue. From there a cable could run under the trailer and then branch off to the necessary corners or sides of the drop floor.

Although likely more complex than the spring method there may be some unexpected complexity in getting the springs to raise the floor uniformly.

[wannabefree]

Go to www.surpluscenter.com and search for linear actuators. The problem will be keeping them in sync.

Their prices seem cheap until you start talking postage!

[bobhenry]

RED NECK FLOOR LIFT

Inflate 1 large innertube to lift floor unpin transport lock. Deflate innertube to lower. Reverse order to raise.

Total cost $10 - $15 for good used truck or tractor tube.

[Elumia]

A scissor jack would make a nice operator. Could run it with an electric drill or a speed wrench. If you were so inclined you could put in a reversing motor - maybe from a power window? Seems to me, that one jack should opperate a small drop floor. I would mount it on the center of one of the long sides - possibly use an angle frame to support a plywood floor. It would probably need a guide opposite of some sort. Guides could come up into cabinetry

Side walls could also be fabric. Use a bungee cord loop in the middle to create tension so the sides go in when the floor goes up.

If it rests on the ground, how do you ensure it is level other than choosing a level parking spot?

Mark

[moreforles]

metal frame with holes to slip pins through to hold it in place while raised and down. lifting mechanism... cable system attached to 12 volt winch from harbor freight for $79.

If designed right (meaning by someone smarter than me) with an additional access port... when not in use raising or lowering the drop floor, the winch could be used for any other winching needs.... mount on swivel plate on tongue.


planning on enclosing most of the tongue on mine, use the inside space to hold battery(s), power inverter, propane tank and winch (if I go with adjustable floor, although will most likely use a permanatly dropped floor if I go with a dropped floor)

[angib]

Well, John, here's your idea modelled - and I think it should work just fine.



The springs are rubber-cored ones from McMaster Carr (8433K21):



Four of them provide ~90lb upthrust in the raised position (about 30lb more than the drop floor weighs) and ~130lb upthrust in the lowered position. The (red) 'strings' are 3/16" diam and run round small (blue) boat cheek blocks.

When the trailer is being towed, the floor is held up with one (adjustable) over-centre latch on each side (McMaster 1525A31):



To lower, undo the two latches, gently step inside, the floor will go down (unless you weigh under 60lb!) and you insert one pin (not shown) either end to lock the floor down.

The drop floor might tend to tilt to one side and jam on the way up or down - but a judicious tap with the foot should cure that.

The only downside is that these mechanics take up an extra 1-2" all around the drop-floor, so bang goes my chance to fit the trailer's frame tightly around it.

Andrew

[john]

I'm glad to be of help.

Your rendering is more compact than what I had in mind. Better. Nice!

Are you building a camper?

[Mini Renegade]

Well, John, here's your idea modelled - and I think it should work just fine.



The springs are rubber-cored ones from McMaster Carr (8433K21):



Four of them provide ~90lb upthrust in the raised position (about 30lb more than the drop floor weighs) and ~130lb upthrust in the lowered position. The (red) 'strings' are 3/16" diam and run round small (blue) boat cheek blocks.

When the trailer is being towed, the floor is held up with one (adjustable) over-centre latch on each side (McMaster 1525A31):



To lower, undo the two latches, gently step inside, the floor will go down (unless you weigh under 60lb!) and you insert one pin (not shown) either end to lock the floor down.

The drop floor might tend to tilt to one side and jam on the way up or down - but a judicious tap with the foot should cure that.

The only downside is that these mechanics take up an extra 1-2" all around the drop-floor, so bang goes my chance to fit the trailer's frame tightly around it.

Andrew

very similar operation to a 4 poster vehicle lift but they have hydraulic rams to shorten the cables that are run around pulley blocks on each end.
You could always try a length of threaded bar as the actuator. One end fixed and the other end moving up and down when turned, could be accessed with a speed brace from the front/ side of the trailer.

[starleen2]

Well, John, here's your idea modelled - and I think it should work just fine.



The springs are rubber-cored ones from McMaster Carr (8433K21):



Four of them provide ~90lb upthrust in the raised position (about 30lb more than the drop floor weighs) and ~130lb upthrust in the lowered position. The (red) 'strings' are 3/16" diam and run round small (blue) boat cheek blocks.

When the trailer is being towed, the floor is held up with one (adjustable) over-centre latch on each side (McMaster 1525A31):



To lower, undo the two latches, gently step inside, the floor will go down (unless you weigh under 60lb!) and you insert one pin (not shown) either end to lock the floor down.

The drop floor might tend to tilt to one side and jam on the way up or down - but a judicious tap with the foot should cure that.

The only downside is that these mechanics take up an extra 1-2" all around the drop-floor, so bang goes my chance to fit the trailer's frame tightly around it.

Andrew

I know this is a little off topic - but do I see some sort of pop up mechanism? I know it's for a dropped floor but could be adapted for the reverse

[angib]

do I see some sort of pop up mechanism?

Probably not - a pop-up has to be external, so that water flows off it, whereas this is internal and so nearly impossible to seal.

But the same springs could be used for a lifting Vardo roof, for example, instead of wires and a winch.

Andrew