Modifying Axle on TSC Carry on Trailer

[Keith.B.Nimble]

If I were to purchase a Carry on trailer from Tractor Supply Company and cut the axle to make it long enough to build a 5' wide trailer would I need to do anything else to the frame? I know that I would need to also modify the wheel well but the frame itself shouldn't need any further modification would it?

Thanks
Keith

javascript:emoticon(':thinking:')

[angib]

...but the frame itself shouldn't need any further modification would it?

Just about everything....

Extending the axle, so that the wheels overhang the springs by 6" more than they did before, will lead to collapse - it just can't be done safely.

The axle will be strong enough to get split in the middle and widened (carefully) - but that means the springs have to move out an equivalent amount, which means you have to widen the whole frame. An alternative which someone here has done is to build a 5ft wide subframe that connects the 5ft wide springs to the 4ft wide original frame.

Andrew

[Keith.B.Nimble]

Thanks Andre

That wasn't the reply that I was hoping for but at least now I have an answer.

Keith

[Mary K]

Thanks Andre

That wasn't the reply that I was hoping for but at least now I have an answer.

Keith

Hey, At least you asked before you did it.

[len19070]

Why not try an "Over the Wheel Build.

It can be done with no fender wells inside.





http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c106/ ... ?start=all

The trailer above is 65" wide.

The axle has to be flipped, to ride under the springs, fenders adjusted.



I think its easier on a TS frame.

Happy Trails

Len

[madjack]

...you must also keep in mind that many(if not most) axles have a slight bow in them...this bow goes in the UP position and flattens as load is applied...if a bowed axle is simply "flipped" it CAN lead to catastrophic failure........
madjack

[bbarry]

Keith,

Don't give up! All is not lost!

I did just what you described by cutting and extending my axle. I did move the spring mounts outboard to keep the stresses on the spindles about the same. I didn't find it prohibitively difficult. If you have the wherewithal to cut and extend the axle, you can certainly build the subframe. I just added angle iron to move the spring mount outward. Here's a shot of how I did it:



There are a few more photos of my solution here

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=27225&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

and there are other examples on this forum (I can't seem to find any right now).

Tips:
1) Keep the crown of the axle oriented correctly (up) as others have mentioned
2) Be careful not to change any geometry when building the subframe. I measured the diagnals from the tip of the tongue to the corners of the added angle iron to certain I was square to the hitch.

Good luck whatever you decide!

Brad

[bobhenry]

here is mine



Added 2 layers of 3/4 foam on top and covered all with a 7/16 subfloor and the wheelwells disapeared.

I have a great deal of tongue flex and it makes me nervous.

I intend to add a 2x2x1/4 center tube as reinforcement this summer.
Wish I had done it while it was just a frame to deal with like this forum member did.

[john]

I widened my axle without changing the frame. The original axle was something like a 1x1 square tube. The replacement was a 3500lb round tube type axle 3" or so in diameter. I used 500 or 750 pound leaf springs.

I only have before and after pics.

[brian_bp]

I widened my axle without changing the frame. The original axle was something like a 1x1 square tube. The replacement was a 3500lb round tube type axle 3" or so in diameter. I used 500 or 750 pound leaf springs.

I agree that this can be a valid approach, because the axle which has a 3500 lb capacity with a normal overhang (of the hubs beyond the springs) might still have enough capacity after the increase in overhang. That's very different from extending the original barely-adequate axle tube to have more overhang.

When going to a higher-capacity axle, I think it's important to still select springs to suit the actual load, as John has.

My travel trailer has a 3500 lb axle (equivalent to a Dexter D35) which specifically allows a maximum of 9" per side of hub overhang past the springs... and the trailer's original design is already right out at that limit.


By the time one of these generic base trailers has had the axle replaced, or the axle and frame modified, I personally don't see any value in having bought the trailer in the first place, instead of just buying the right one or having one made to suit.

[Keith.B.Nimble]

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. Please keep them coming.

I don't actually have access to a welder but I was kicking the idea around. I would be willing to go the extra expense of hiring someone to cut the axle and lengthening it if that was all that needed done. That does not appear to be the case though.

I also thought of building up the base to cover the wheel wells. Would that make the unit more unstable during transportation?

Anyone have any idea how much it costs (on the average) to have a 5x8 trailer made?

Also I found this website while surfing this forum.
http://www.littleswissteardrop.com/buildpictures.html
Click on the second picture. I wonder how much that frame cost them.

Keith

[Keith.B.Nimble]

Len

I really like your idea. That would be the easiest of all so far.

Is that 2x4 laid on its side? Did you just bolt that to the metal frame?

Any further information that you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Especially if you have pictures of the underside.

Keith

[len19070]

Len

I really like your idea. That would be the easiest of all so far.

Is that 2x4 laid on its side? Did you just bolt that to the metal frame?

Any further information that you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Especially if you have pictures of the underside.

Keith

There laid on the "flat"....But the photos show this on a Harbor Freight Frame. A TS frame is easier!!

Find out your fender height and get lumber that will reach that height. (I did it with a TS frame but no Photos)

Since the TS frame is an angle iron frame. Just place the 2X's upright and make a saw cut to fit into the frame.

* sub note....Then I removed the wood frame, covered the underside with Masonite and coated it with Driveway sealer. Then re assembled it.

You can leave it as is and "Goop the daylights" out of it and it should be fine. (I just think a smooth bottom shows I thought about it, but I'm weird like that)

Any questions PM me.

Happy Trails

Len

[Elumia]

If you want the wheels on the outside, isn't it easier to buy the carry on 5' wide frame than modify a 4' wide one? Might be special order, but a whole lot less work!

Mark

[Ron Dickey]

Keith,

Keep asking your questions as you can see you started with one idea and the folks on this forum are trying to get you where you want to go and doing safly with style.

what is your next step??

Ron Dickey