My trailer

[TD_Dodger]

so far it has been a battle getting the rust off my axle and frame, but now that its all done the axle has been painted, and im primering the frame now. the bearings have been repacked and originals seals are still good. although the wheel doesnt turn as freely i think its because of the grease i used, green grease from autozone, but it does turn very well.

[doug hodder]

You might want to pull the cotter pin, back the castle nut off 1 notch and put it back in. Just might be that you have them up tighter than they need to be. You want to snug them up so that you don't get any play in the bearings, but not too tight that it restricts the roll. Some higher viscosity greases will be stiffer however. Did you put some new bearings in? Doug

[Nitetimes]

Do take Doug's advice, back of your nut at least one hole. If any resistance is there it's too tight. I don't believe the grease will cause it. I have grease here that is hard to get out of the tube with a putty knife and it's all you can do to squeeze it in the bearings and you wouldn't know it. (it was a screw up at the plant- has Slick 50 in it)

[bobhenry]

Yep just adjusted up a little too snug. IMHO

[Steve_Cox]

In tightening the axle nut the first time after re-packing the bearings, I usually try to go beyond where the final adjustment will be just a little to make sure the bearings are well seated into the races, then back off to where the hub spins well with no lateral play in the hub can be felt. If the cotter pin holes don't align at that adjustment, I always go looser not tighter to the next slot in the castle nut. I've often wondered if that was how everyone else does it.

[Mark McD]

Gotta be careful what kind of grease you use or you'll get a "hotbox"- that's when your grease overheats and catches fire. Looks cool going down the highway at 60 mph, but not cool if it's behind your vehicle. Make sure it's wheel bearing grease.

[bobhenry]

The "overheating " can be triggered by mixing different types of greases.
Not brands but types of grease ! There are many families of grease and combinations of some with others will destroy the grease and it will simply run out as oil andleave an under lubricated bearing to heat up. When repacking bearing clean all surfaces thoroughly. Solvent rinse and air dry but please don't spin te bearing with compressed air I have seen them handgrenade it can be dangerous.

[TD_Dodger]

You might want to pull the cotter pin, back the castle nut off 1 notch and put it back in. Just might be that you have them up tighter than they need to be. You want to snug them up so that you don't get any play in the bearings, but not too tight that it restricts the roll. Some higher viscosity greases will be stiffer however. Did you put some new bearings in? Doug

no i placed the same bearings. i did loosen up the nut like you said and rolls more freely now, but still a little stiff, i thinks its because the grease is thick

[bobhenry]

Well take it for a drive and thin it out !!!

[Nitetimes]

The "overheating " can be triggered by mixing different types of greases.
Not brands but types of grease ! There are many families of grease and combinations of some with others will destroy the grease and it will simply run out as oil and leave an under lubricated bearing to heat up. When repacking bearing clean all surfaces thoroughly. Solvent rinse and air dry but please don't spin te bearing with compressed air I have seen them handgrenade it can be dangerous.

I have also been told by a manufacturing that doing this also ruins the surface of the bearing withing the first 10 seconds, essentially destroying your bearings with very little effort on your part.
YMMV