Wall protection above a stove - ideas requested!

[ajricher]

In the rebuild of my Skyline Week-N-Der (got the first replacement wall frame in last night!) I've found that anything attached to the walls was junk - and this included the metal wall protection panels that had been mounted above the stove on the two corner walls.


Now, what to replace them with? Ceramic tile seems a bit heavy, Formica is flammable, and stainless steel a bit pricey. Suggestions from those who have built-in appliances would be sincerely appreciated, as a cursory search of the site didn't turn up a lot of data.

Thanks - Al

[48Rob]

Hi Al,

There are many choices of materials out there, personal choice and budget are the limiting factors.

Some material, like ceramic or asbestos can be applied directly to the wall and offer adequate protection.

Metal panels, be they steel, aluminum, copper, etc, are all "heat proof" but rely on proper installation to perform the required task.

A metal panel nailed, or otherwise directly attached to the wall will offer minimal protection, but will transfer heat to the wood/wall behind.

For a metal panel to do the job, it must be attached so there is an air space between the wall and the metal panel.

As little as 1/4" will do the job.
Thin strips of trim, or like material can be used to create the gap.

Rob

[ajricher]

Re: Metal panel:

Thanks for the reminder - familiar with the properties of conduction but it never hurts to stir the synapses on such things.

I think the materials suggestions are what I need, here. I really don't want to go ceramic - weight and what it will do after X000 miles is in mind - but what to use that's commonly available and won't look horrid is what I'm trying to get a handle on.

Cost is always an issue - my funds on this job are more than adequate but I don't want to spend needlessly.

Thanks - Alan

[kennyrayandersen]

Stainless isn’t cheap, but you don’t need a full sheet or anything. You aren’t cooking right on it, but next to it, so if it gets a bit warm it shouldn’t be a big deal. Was there a big gap there in the original installation? I suspect not. Even though the metal has a fairly high conduction coefficient, it’s really acting to reflect quite a bit of the heat, so the total amount that gets transferred to the wall behind is not going to start a fire or anything. Since it lasted so long the first time I would tend to put something back that was kind of equivalent – if it had a gap put another back in that is similar – if it had an actual heat shield (asbestos), then you can get similar material from an auto parts store (though you can’t get, and don’t want asbestos anyway). I suspect it was just metal on the outside of some paneling [but I’ve been wrong before].

[aggie79]

Here's a thought - and probably too heavy if you use too much - but you might be able to used Hardybacker cement board as an underlayment followed by a plastic laminate or other finish material. The Hardybacker is about 1/4" thick and weighs about 2# per square foot.

[Elumia]

Stainless is pricey? What is your safety worth? what are you looking to save $20?

Mark

[ZendoDeb]

Go to a ferrous metals recycling company and see if they have small pieces.

Stainless will last a good long time.

If you like a more industrial look, there are places on the web that will sell you a reasonable piece of diamond plate for a reasonable price. (Folks use these are rock-guards on the front and sides of tears)

Copper roofing material might work, but I have no idea how thick it is.