Paint decision.....

[jollymon1375]

So the carpentry portion of my build is almost finished and I'm hoping to start the finishing stage very soon. I've already purchased the CPES and the 2 part epoxy filler. I've done some research on "big box" paint products and I think that this stuff might to the trick with 3 coats on top of the CPES.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=47541-4-47541&lpage=none





What I like most about it is that I can have it tinted in just about any color that I want, I'm going with desert tan. Plus, if I need more, it's literally 8 min from my house!!

Thoughts? ideas?
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[madjack]

I'm not a fan of house paint for a finish but more importantly is what is underneath it...with epoxy/CPES sealing all wood(you do have it all sealed...doancha), you should be able to get away with house paint...have you checked on the cost/availability of marine urethane paint...it is available in several colors and I can buy it at my local hdw and box stores..........
madjack

p.s. keeping the tear under cover while stored will go a loooooooong way to protecting that paint finish...........MJ

[starleen2]

While not a big fan of Latex paints, I'm not sure what they mean by "Severe weather". While it suggest the durability of the paint, they surely didn't mean for it to be going down the road being bombarded by bugs, rocks, and road debris. I have used House paints on other builds and they worked just great, however they were all ENAMEL - which speaks to the hardness of the paint. Whether latex or oil based - enamels are harder and resist more handling than most paints.

[jollymon1375]

Good points, I overlooked the enamel option. As for the marine paint, I was finding it for like $80 a qt....OUCH! That's what I'd like to go with but I simply can't afford it.

[planovet]

Try somewhere like a West Marine. There is one about 30 miles from you. They will have Polyurethane Topside Paints for around $100 a gallon. Not cheap but it will last a while.

[Arne]

my take is do not use house paint of any type..... use one part marine polyurethane.

The finish is great and it cleans up much easier. twice the cost, but after my adventure with high grade ben moore high gloss (it was a disaster dirt wise), I'd never use house paint again.

google blue water paint if you want more information.

in my opinion, house paint sucks, especially in white... I could not get it clean.

[ssample]

I'm not a fan of house paint for a finish but more importantly is what is underneath it...with epoxy/CPES sealing all wood(you do have it all sealed...doancha), you should be able to get away with house paint...have you checked on the cost/availability of marine urethane paint...it is available in several colors and I can buy it at my local hdw and box stores..........
madjack

p.s. keeping the tear under cover while stored will go a loooooooong way to protecting that paint finish...........MJ

Hi,
I am almost to the exterior finish stage and would appreciate your opinions on if I should seal the entire body? I have sealed all of the plywood edges already with CPES from Rot Doctor. I plan a Filon or epoxy based paint as the exterior finish. It seems a waste of money if I use the Filon, because the contact cement will cover all the wood. Thanks

[madjack]

I'm not a fan of house paint for a finish but more importantly is what is underneath it...with epoxy/CPES sealing all wood(you do have it all sealed...doancha), you should be able to get away with house paint...have you checked on the cost/availability of marine urethane paint...it is available in several colors and I can buy it at my local hdw and box stores..........
madjack

p.s. keeping the tear under cover while stored will go a loooooooong way to protecting that paint finish...........MJ

Hi,
I am almost to the exterior finish stage and would appreciate your opinions on if I should seal the entire body? I have sealed all of the plywood edges already with CPES from Rot Doctor. I plan a Filon or epoxy based paint as the exterior finish. It seems a waste of money if I use the Filon, because the contact cement will cover all the wood. Thanks

...if you are going to paint, I would certainly seal everything with the CPES(or regular epoxy) first...a marine urethane based paint over that and you should be good to go...the filon...if ya want it...use it..............
madjack

p.s. any epoxy, CPES or otherwise, should have a minimum of 3 coats for best sealage...the same applies to the paint as weil...any sharp edges on exposed wood should be relieved somewhat to eliminate those sharp edges which will turn into a point of failure if not......MJ

[ssample]

Thanks for the reply,
I went on to the Rot Doctor web site and noticed that they have a two part, UV resistant and stable polyurethane coating, called Uniflex 255. According to Rot Doctor this is a preferable finish to either Filon or aluminum, because water can get under these two and rot can occur. They also say that the product has at least a 10 year life. It sure would be a lot easier to apply. How does Uniflex 255 look and does anyone have long term experience with? I will use Fill It epoxy filler and prep the surfaces very well in order to have a smooth surface. Thanks again, Steve

[Arne]

uniflex 255 is a very tough finish. I used it on my first tear.... once it got dirty, I could not get it any where near clean again. I tried bleach, scrubbing bubbles and a lot of other things.

on no. 2, i used cpes and marine top deck paint... worked out much better.