Cutting Out Doors...Router or Jigsaw.....

[madjack]

...just to throw my 2cents worth in...I use a template and a plunge router with a guide bushing...this is a kinda advanced technique and takes some practice...if you don't have the tools or skils, a good jig saw and blades are probably your best bet...one of the main reasons I like the router, is you can use the proper sized bit to get the proper gap around the door much easier than you can with a jig saw.............
madjack

[caffeine]

I have to agree with madjack. Next time I'll be using a router, but I didn't want to deal with the learning curve seeing as how I've never used one. I used the cheapest jigsaw, with the blade that came with it, and just really took my time. I'm very proud of my door.

[Ageless]

Well . . . . .to be factual . . . . .it's a sabre saw

[Gage]

Well . . . . .to be factual . . . . .it's a sabre saw

.........

[BrwBier]

I see Gage cutting thin material. My question is do any skill/saber/jig saws cut thick material well. My problem is when cutting a curve in anything thicker than 3/4" the bottom of the cut is a smaller radius than the top. How do you stop this? Is this where a better saw will help?
Brwbier

[Ageless]

The normal 'handyman' types have really poor guides and blade mountings. You have to go to professional quality to get a really good straight cut

[Gage]

I see Gage cutting thin material. My question is do any skill/saber/jig saws cut thick material well. My problem is when cutting a curve in anything thicker than 3/4" the bottom of the cut is a smaller radius than the top. How do you stop this? Is this where a better saw will help?
Brwbier

I don't see that. Although I do cut almost every thing with that saw. On my Scotsman build I cut 3/4" cabinet grade birch with the saber/jig saw with the blades that I pictured with no problem. If you go any thicker than that, maybe it's time to break out the band saw.

......one of the main reasons I like the router, is you can use the proper sized bit to get the proper gap around the door much easier than you can with a jig saw.............
madjack

Need advice and/or direction. Where can you get a 1/4" router bit with a 1/4" roller guide? I've been looking but can't find one.

[Miriam C.]

I see Gage cutting thin material. My question is do any skill/saber/jig saws cut thick material well. My problem is when cutting a curve in anything thicker than 3/4" the bottom of the cut is a smaller radius than the top. How do you stop this? Is this where a better saw will help?
Brwbier

I found (after making a lot of yucky cuts) that a finer blade and a slow hand will get a straight cut. When you push it you can get the guide off the material. Slow and steady. . . .

[madjack]

......one of the main reasons I like the router, is you can use the proper sized bit to get the proper gap around the door much easier than you can with a jig saw.............
madjack

Need advice and/or direction. Where can you get a 1/4" router bit with a 1/4" roller guide? I've been looking but can't find one.

...since I was referring to a plunge router with a template bushing guide, I am not exactly sure what you are wanting BUT you might try here
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... tom_anchor

madjack

[Gage]

...since I was referring to a plunge router with a template bushing guide, I am not exactly sure what you are wanting BUT you might try here
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite ... tom_anchor

madjack

Seems like what I’m looking for are called 'Flush Trimming Bits'. Thanks for the web site. That'll work. Oh and I use a palm router for all my router work. Drill hole, insert router and start routing with the template being an exact trim guide.

[Larwyn]

I see Gage cutting thin material. My question is do any skill/saber/jig saws cut thick material well. My problem is when cutting a curve in anything thicker than 3/4" the bottom of the cut is a smaller radius than the top. How do you stop this? Is this where a better saw will help?
Brwbier

I'm sure you already know this but when you are guiding a jig saw you should put no pressure side to side on the saw. If you do this will deflect the blade causing it to cut at a angle (bevel) and could result in the bottom of the cut being smaller or larger than the top side. Try to only push the saw forward in the direction of the cut with no pressure to either side.

[aggie79]

Here's a short tutorial on how to use a router with guide bushings:

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/158/videos/using-router-guide-bushings/

[Arne]

I used a skil saw, and finished up the corners with a fine toothed hand saw. It gave me a gap the width of the saw blade. Just what I wanted.

and a straight edge. see second pic on link below.. very handy for cutting long straight edges.

To make the straight edge, I attached a straight 1x4x8' to a piece of 1/4 ply, then cut off the excess 1/4 ply with the saw. That gave me a straight edge I could just lay down on the marks, and use the skil saw. Each side of the straight edge was the exact with of the cut using either side of the saw.

[LDK]

I made this crude straight line router jig out of 3/4" angle iron to cut my door out with. I havn't done it yet but it seem to work pretty good on the scrap piece I tried.

[Woodbutcher]

I like the router myself. This is a simple pattern I made to cut out my doors in my Club Car build. Simply add the distance from the bit to the edge of the router base. Double it to account for both sides and clamp it down. Screw it down if the sides are being covered. Drop the router in place with the base firmly against the pattern and drop the bit half way in and make a pass. Stop and repeat dropping the bit till it goes all the way through and make a final pass. It is hard to mess up this way. Not saying it can't be done but it is hard!