Tilt trailer?

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Postby bobhenry » Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:26 am

Yep

Mine is done and the tongue flex bothers me.

I intend to do just what Harvey did also. I do plan on taking it clear to the rear crossmember and then it can be used as a rear reciever for 1 1/4 type accessories like a bike rack or removable spare tire rack.
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Postby Geron » Thu Nov 12, 2009 7:59 am

synaps3 wrote:Thanks!

I couldn't seem to look up the number that Chris sent me. Odd. I'll order this tomorrow :thumbsup:


Dave,

You might save some shipping if you pick it up at Harbor Freight off Bells Ferry road. Exit 4 off I 575. Exit and turn left coming from Big A. Shopping center on the right.

Geron
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Postby alffink » Thu Nov 12, 2009 9:04 am

I haven't lengthend mine but, I had the twisting of the toung jack & "C"chanel.
added 1/4" aluminum plate, top and bottum of the aframe, kinda boxed it in, then added 1" X 1" X 1/4" aluminum angle to mount the toung jack (got rid of that ugly clamp) it is now very solid, no twist, no flex.

Sorry no pictures of this mod, yet
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Postby synaps3 » Thu Nov 12, 2009 10:58 am

Geron wrote:
synaps3 wrote:Thanks!

I couldn't seem to look up the number that Chris sent me. Odd. I'll order this tomorrow :thumbsup:


Dave,

You might save some shipping if you pick it up at Harbor Freight off Bells Ferry road. Exit 4 off I 575. Exit and turn left coming from Big A. Shopping center on the right.

Geron

That's exactly what I did 8)

Where did you guys get the 2x2 tubing, and how much was it? I'm a bit poor right now :oops:
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boxing it in

Postby eamarquardt » Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:03 am

alffink wrote:I haven't lengthend mine but, I had the twisting of the toung jack & "C"chanel.
added 1/4" aluminum plate, top and bottum of the aframe, kinda boxed it in, then added 1" X 1" X 1/4" aluminum angle to mount the toung jack (got rid of that ugly clamp) it is now very solid, no twist, no flex.

Sorry no pictures of this mod, yet


Good idea boxing in the foretriange (a sailing term but I think everyone will get my meaning). IMHO 1/4" was overkill, 1/8" would be more than sufficient. However, you probably had the 1/4" "in stock" and a good engineer always uses the materials "locally available". I was asked why I used 1/8" al for the siding on my dump trailer and when I explained that I had it in stock (saw it at a scrap yard, didn't need it at the time, but couldn't pass it up and bought 7 or so 4X12 sheets and 20 years later they''re nearly all used up) that when I got the "good engineer" quote! It's a good line.

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Postby bobhenry » Thu Nov 12, 2009 11:13 am

In our area 2x2 x 3/16 sq tube is currently $2.60 per L/F . I am going all the way to the rear member and figured 13'6" ( about 35 dollars ) . This length should extend the tongue about 18" +/- .

Look for structural steel in the yellow pages !

I did this on my 40 x 48 HF trailer and simply drilled and bolted thru each and every cross member with 2 grade #5 bolts at each member. Took less than an hour to install on the little trailer.

Don't put it off it is much more difficult with a teardrop body in the way. I won't be able to weld Chubby's frame without risking a fire and the body wont allow me to drop a bolt thru the cross members I am still trying to figure out the best attack.
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Postby synaps3 » Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:37 pm

I'll lose my tilt functionality if I add the beam (can't believe I didn't notice that before...)

I need to have the tilt to properly load / unload my motorcycle! I could leave off the tilt and go with that, but then I have to have a long ramp to make sure it clears...

Perhaps I can add (or move) a crossmember and bolt-on a heavy-duty hinge there. I am quite concerned about the flex. I think alfink's idea would be easier though, although it may cost more. :cry:
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Postby ARKPAT » Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:37 am

I used my trailer for four years with out it. I bent my tongue when I "Jack-nived" my trailer into the jack while backing. Lesson learned ! :oops: :cry:

If you want to keep the tilt-bed function just have a welder ( a beer trade for work works good ):lol: :lol: make a new tongue ( 10' - 15' of tubing needed ) and weld a "Good Atwoods Jack to the strengthened tongue. Always make sure the jack you buy has no "Wobble-to it". It if does "Go to the next jack in the stack". 8)


That can be at any time you wish. ;)

:thumbsup:

Pat

PS: The 2" x 2" x 1/4" tubing was $2/ft here and I welded it up myself and tapped the screw holes as descrbed above. seven foot and a three foot lengths equaled ten feet, so $20 plus rod / electricity ( money saved on the coupon ).
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Postby synaps3 » Thu Nov 19, 2009 6:44 pm

I got some 2.25x2.25 @ 1/4" thickness for $18, in a 10ft section from a scrapyard. 8)
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