cut off switch question...

[Dale M.]

As for "normal" light switches.... Most DO NOT have a DC "rating" on them only a AC rating, that has to tell you something.....

I personally like the DC "Master Disconnect" switch for automotive/boat application.... Contacts in switch are rated something like 100 AMPS, that means it will cycle on/off about a jillion times with out wearing out....

Dale

[planovet]

Just giving you a hard time Doug

[doug hodder]

Sorry Mark....I dumped it before you posted. I hadn't used a switch like Jack suggested didn't know they had them as inexpensive as that. Doug

[caseydog]

So....do you all have on board extinguishing systems as well? Doug

If you are going to race it, it has to have that, too. Both the kill switch and the fire system have to be accessible by safety crews on the outside of the car.

In addition, the driver can also activate the fire system.



If you put the kill switch in the cockpit, or under the hood, you need to run a cable from the hole in the paddle to the outside with a pull handle.



The lightning bolt indicates the kill switch, and the "E" is to set off the fire system.

[planovet]

So....do you all have on board extinguishing systems as well? Doug

[caseydog]

Looks like Mark got into the catnip, again.

CD

[Arne]

As for "normal" light switches.... Most DO NOT have a DC "rating" on them only a AC rating, that has to tell you something.....

Dale

They do not have a dc rating because they are made for 115v a/c.... I use them in my tears with no problems.

The recommendation is that you cut the watts in half when using for 12v. That leaves you with 72 amps with 12v... since I use a 30 amp fuse, I am not concerned.

[caseydog]

My thinking -- call me crazy -- is to pay seven bucks for the switch they use on race cars. Yeah, it's seven big ones, instead of a buck-fifty, but that's how I roll.

CD

[satch]

Looks like Mark got into the catnip, again.

CD

Doug, HF has them for under $5, not sure if you would want HF. I picked one up for my boat at Kragens, I think it was around $10.

[Joanne]

Doug,

Couldn't ya just strip the wires back and twist them together? You could pull 'em apart when you didn't want'm hooked together....

Sure look'n forward to seeing your next trailer!

Joanne

[doug hodder]

Hey Joanne....the light switch was a step up for me. I usually just disconnect the hot wire...guess I could still do that, it's always worked. Doug

[Joe G]

I've been eyeballing this one:

$ 6.37 HD push-pull switch rated at 75 amps, made by a reputable mfr (Cole-Hersee)
I like this style because it is more compact than the big plastic ones and has a similar continuous use rating (75A vs 100A). Plus it has sort of a vintage look to it.

[Larwyn]

Hey Joanne....the light switch was a step up for me. I usually just disconnect the hot wire...guess I could still do that, it's always worked. Doug

That's actually my choice. One case where I prefer to keep it simple.

[Juneaudave]

I've just got to ask (because I didn't add a master switch and now I feel insecure )

I guess I thought you put a master switch in to prevent drawdown during long term storage...and if that were the case...am I goofing up? I put in a three stage charger with the intent to just leave it plugged in and fully charged during non-use. Is there a reason you want to disconnect the battery for towing?

I'm so confused

[alffink]

I went with a classic blade or knife switch, a bit pricy and it was probably over-kill, but it works for me and oh so positive and simple to boot.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7110k23/=4n5fvi

and just a glance you know your dis-connected.