HF trailer mod question

[SteveSS]

Hi,
Somewhat new here. Been doing a lot of reading. I'm about to start my project of a teardrop using a HF 4X8 trailer.
However, can't find wat I need to know.

----The trailer measures 49" wide. If the top (skin) is 1/8" plywood, I need the 'body' to be exactally 48". Obviously the sidewalls should be on the outside of the deck(floor) and not set ON the deck, so therefore I'll cut the deck to 46 1/2" (using 3/4" sidewalls).

The Benroy plans say the sidewall should overhang the trailer frame. Is that necessary? Do I need to make the trailer frame narrower?

[toypusher]

What is you final exterior going to be. If you are skinning with aluminum, then the 1/8" on the roof skin would not have to be the exact width and you could be short by as much as 1/4" on each side because it can be covered nicely by the outer skin and the trim.

If you are doing all wood exterior, then you could just get the 1/8" in 5ft x 5ft size. No worries on the width then.

[Steve_Cox]

Hi,
Somewhat new here. Been doing a lot of reading. I'm about to start my project of a teardrop using a HF 4X8 trailer.
However, can't find wat I need to know.

----The trailer measures 49" wide. If the top (skin) is 1/8" plywood, I need the 'body' to be exactally 48". Obviously the sidewalls should be on the outside of the deck(floor) and not set ON the deck, so therefore I'll cut the deck to 46 1/2" (using 3/4" sidewalls).

The Benroy plans say the sidewall should overhang the trailer frame. Is that necessary? Do I need to make the trailer frame narrower?

Will look better (to me anyway) if the frame isn't exposed. It is so easy to modify an HF trailer with a drill and some kind of saw or grinder.

[aggie79]

Steve,
Don't know what part of the world you are in, but you might be able to get baltic (or Russian) birch plywood in 5' x 5' sheets. That is what I'm using.
Tom

[satch]

I built the box to sit on top of the frame, then wrapped it with a "skirt"

[SteveSS]

Oops. Put my post in the wrong forum. Here it is again.

Rick,
What did you use for a skirt? How'd you do that?

I just priced aluminum. No way on my salary. So I guess it's varnish
or CPES or whatever.
I want my 'box' EXACTLY 48X96 so I don't have expense of special order
plywood. But then, my 'box' will leave 1/2" of trailer frame exposed.
Probably all the way around. Excellent place for water to collect.
A short skirt would solve part of the problem. Just don't drive thru
puddles.
Is CPES a really, really good sealer?

Hope I get a gallon of CPES for Christmas.
Steve

[synaps3]

I haven't used CPES yet -- but its reputation precedes it, especially on this forum.

My understanding is that CPES is a penetrating epoxy, that gets sucked through all the grain of the wood, chemically bonding to the grain. This completely prevents any and all rotting, or stops any preexisting damage in its tracks.

You will need to use a nice UV-resistive automotive-type paint on top though, that will set you back even more.

Plan on spending at least $150 on your exterior finish! It's worth the end result. If you need proof, look in the Hall of Fame (top-right) and compare some of the "finished" tears to the less-finished ones. Many of the finishes there are beautiful!

[satch]

Rick,
What did you use for a skirt? How'd you do that?

It's just a strip of trim that covers the frame (1/2"x 4")

[Steve_Cox]

Oops. Put my post in the wrong forum. Here it is again.

Rick,
What did you use for a skirt? How'd you do that?

I just priced aluminum. No way on my salary. So I guess it's varnish
or CPES or whatever.
I want my 'box' EXACTLY 48X96 so I don't have expense of special order
plywood. But then, my 'box' will leave 1/2" of trailer frame exposed.
Probably all the way around. Excellent place for water to collect.
A short skirt would solve part of the problem. Just don't drive thru
puddles.
Is CPES a really, really good sealer?

Hope I get a gallon of CPES for Christmas.
Steve

Pretty good. 2 coats of CPES will make plywood water resistant. 3 will make it waterproof. I fill the end grain of plywood with 3 or more coats of regular epoxy until it is filled to the surface.

[Arne]

cpes does not chemically bond to wood, it physically bonds by soaking in. The second coat chemically bonds to the first coat if put on within 24 hours.. on ply it will only soak the first layer to the glue.. the biggest benefit is on all end grains, joints, etc... it basically turns your tear into a solid box and protects against moisture penetration....

I highly recommend it.. and used 2 coats, but slathered extra on the joints...

I build my first wood t/d in 2004 and after 30k miles and 4 years, had not one wood problem... my new one has about 8k miles on it and is rock solid..

2 coats cpes, 2 coats marine primer, 2 coats marine top deck paint.... and it is easy to clean up, even though it is white.