Red Oak Ply or Hardwood Ply sides?

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I'm pricing the parts for my build and wanted everyones opinion on wood for the sides. I'm only doing a 3/4" side, no insulation or interior panels.

At Home Depot, they have 3/4" C-3 Red Oak Plywood for $39.95,

and 3/4" Sandply Hardwood Plywood for $45.88.


Which would you suggest if the wood is just going to be stained/sealed inside and out?

Pros/Cons?

Thanks!

[cocobolo]

just my opinion, and keep in mind that is is coming from a life long woodworker, but If you are leaving the sides exposed and staining/sealing them, I would not use a big box stores ply. Very rarely is it perfectly straight, and It is usually 5 to 7 ply where a good piece cabinet grade ply is 11 to 13 ply. You will find if you ever get water intrusion, a good piece of plywood will be your best friend.

Saying this, and noticing that your in york, pa. I would take a run up to middletown lumber. [url]middletownlumber.com[/url] Great products and service. Keep in mind, you will also be paying more for your ply, but I think its worth it. Prices will start at around $60ish for red oak and work there way up to well over $100 for products such at mohogony.

chad

[danlott]

If you look at the box store plywood you will also see that the "oak" vaneer is only paper thin. If you damage it in anyway it will show. Look around and find better plywood. Plus you should be able to find other types of hardwood plywood that you might prefer over oak.

Dan

[planovet]

just my opinion, and keep in mind that is is coming from a life long woodworker, but If you are leaving the sides exposed and staining/sealing them, I would not use a big box stores ply. Very rarely is it perfectly straight, and It is usually 5 to 7 ply where a good piece cabinet grade ply is 11 to 13 ply. You will find if you ever get water intrusion, a good piece of plywood will be your best friend.

Saying this, and noticing that your in york, pa. I would take a run up to middletown lumber. [url]middletownlumber.com[/url] Great products and service. Keep in mind, you will also be paying more for your ply, but I think its worth it. Prices will start at around $60ish for red oak and work there way up to well over $100 for products such at mohogony.

+1

I agree that the extra that you spend on a better quality ply will be worth it in the long run. It might be one thing if you were going to cover it with aluminum or such. But for exposed ply, I would go for the higher ply plywood.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Thanks for the input! But since this is my first build, the appearance of the wood isnt really a concern. I'm not worried about the grain being straight, I'm just looking to do a budget teardrop. Also, the trailer will be stored in a garage year round, so the only time it will be exposed to elements is on weekend trips in good weather and maybe 1 or 2 trips/ year that will require advance planning (thus possibly introducing foul weather).

This may go against my "budget" but I am planning on finishing the wood with CPES and Spar Varnish as many people have used, so will that protect the wood as long as I pay special attention to the exposed edges?

I was just trying to keep my main wood costs less than $50/sheet.

Thanks again for the suggestion of better ply! I will certainly keep that in mind for a better teardrop build down the road a little, when my budget will allow for it.

[synaps3]

I did calculations on my build, and found it would cost me about $100 less to coat the whole shebang myself with truck bedliner. They make it in a smooth, white, UV proof flavor now, for around $140 per gal.

Of course, your mileage may vary. Just trying to make a suggestion

[bbarry]

Thanks for the input! But since this is my first build, the appearance of the wood isnt really a concern. I'm not worried about the grain being straight, I'm just looking to do a budget teardrop.

I was just trying to keep my main wood costs less than $50/sheet.

You seem to have made up your mind (and it is your money after all), but what's the difference between $40/sheet and $60? For your sides, can't be much more than $60 total (3 sheets). Even on a budget (as I did mine), you'll still be over $1000 in total cost. I think you'll find a quality plywood easier to work with and be happier with the results.

Just my two cents, have fun regardless of what you do!

Brad

[NathanL]

I did some pricing of my own this week.

Lowes and Home Depot came up losers in every respect. Not only can you not buy wood with an "A" face at either of those locally they were just as expensive for an inferior product.

For what Lowes and Home Depot wanted for import plywood I could buy domestic AC Fir from a true lumberyard (and we are a LONG way from where they make anything out of Doug Fir as we are in the Pine belt and have 2 plywood pine plants in town), or for $5 more per sheet I could buy MDO which I feel is a superior product as well.

To me the only advantage for HD/Lowes is not price but convenience because most places have access to one (even here in the sticks). It's kinda like WalMart...they have one everywhere but limited stuff and to be honest if you start pricing some of their stuff it's not all that cheap.

I didn't price any hardwood but I wouldn't be suprised if it was the same story.

[afreegreek]

Thanks for the input! But since this is my first build, the appearance of the wood isnt really a concern. I'm not worried about the grain being straight, I'm just looking to do a budget teardrop. Also, the trailer will be stored in a garage year round, so the only time it will be exposed to elements is on weekend trips in good weather and maybe 1 or 2 trips/ year that will require advance planning (thus possibly introducing foul weather).

This may go against my "budget" but I am planning on finishing the wood with CPES and Spar Varnish as many people have used, so will that protect the wood as long as I pay special attention to the exposed edges?

I was just trying to keep my main wood costs less than $50/sheet.

Thanks again for the suggestion of better ply! I will certainly keep that in mind for a better teardrop build down the road a little, when my budget will allow for it.

yes, pay special attention to the edges of the plywood. keep putting on coats of CPES or my favourite S-1 sealer. (it's an epoxy too and very thin) until it won't soak anymore in. the best way is to keep adding a little more before the previous coat sets up. keep it wet with epoxy in other words. this will give you the best penetration. (I've done comparative experiments with dye tinted epoxy and sawn them open to see.) then put a coat on after to give you a good film thickness on surface of the wood. make sure it's a good coat too as you'll want to sand it a little before gluing anything to it or paint over it. the amine blush is the thing you'll need to get rid of..

[Sam I am]

You might try Industrial Plywood in Reading, PA. I got good Baltic birch for my tear from their Lewistown store. Reasonable prices, too. Way better wood than the box store stuff!

[cocobolo]

I did some pricing of my own this week.

Lowes and Home Depot came up losers in every respect. Not only can you not buy wood with an "A" face at either of those locally they were just as expensive for an inferior product.

For what Lowes and Home Depot wanted for import plywood I could buy domestic AC Fir from a true lumberyard (and we are a LONG way from where they make anything out of Doug Fir as we are in the Pine belt and have 2 plywood pine plants in town), or for $5 more per sheet I could buy MDO which I feel is a superior product as well.

To me the only advantage for HD/Lowes is not price but convenience because most places have access to one (even here in the sticks). It's kinda like WalMart...they have one everywhere but limited stuff and to be honest if you start pricing some of their stuff it's not all that cheap.

I didn't price any hardwood but I wouldn't be suprised if it was the same story.

This is so true. Alot if not most people dont realize how bad the quality of wood is sold at the big box. They buy lower grade wood and buy in bulk and have to take what they get. A lumber yard can and will be more selective and usually have a higher grade of lumber all around. I understand the convenience of the big box, but there is nothing like having to sort through 25 sheets of ply or a 100 2x4's to get a few that are almost to your standards. The few cents I save on products is not worth the hassle to me.

chad

[toypusher]

....................
Saying this, and noticing that your in york, pa. I would take a run up to middletown lumber. [url]middletownlumber.com[/url] Great products and service. Keep in mind, you will also be paying more for your ply, but I think its worth it. Prices will start at around $60ish for red oak and work there way up to well over $100 for products such at mohogony.

chad

I have done business with Middletown lumber and you can NOT go wrong doing business with them.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Ok, so I should be looking at an actual lumber yard to source my panels. Beyond that, which would be better... A birch hardwood , or oak?

As I had stated before, I will be sealing them. Looks like CPES and spar varnish is going to be the way I'm leaning towards.

[cocobolo]

if your comparing the same type of quality ply, the veneer type(oak, birch, etc) should be the same quality, so its up to your taste. Pick the one you like best. If you are trying to save money and you are doing a woody, the oak for your trim etc. will be more costly than birch(I have seen quite a few that use aspen to match up to birch also) That may be something you may want to think about also.

chad

[Cliffmeister2000]

Ok, so I should be looking at an actual lumber yard to source my panels. Beyond that, which would be better... A birch hardwood , or oak?

As I had stated before, I will be sealing them. Looks like CPES and spar varnish is going to be the way I'm leaning towards.

Birch = light color, very smooth grain.
Oak = darker color, coarser grain.

As was said, personal prefrence.