Hitch size and many other questions from a newb.

[BillZ]

I am in the beginning stages of planning my tear. It will be a 4x8 with a back hatch, probably a Generic Benroy. I know next to nothing at this point so please bear with me. This forum is an excellent resource and I have done several hours of reading but have trouble getting a clear consensus on a few things.

Question on hitch size- the oem Subaru hitch offered for my Forester I believe is 1.25" but some have told me to at an aftermarket 2" hitch. The harbor Freight trailer I am looking at says it has a 1 7/8 ball receiver. I may be getting the hitch receiver measurement and the ball measurement mixed up, can someone explain what I need to look for?
I will likely be using the hitch for only the tear, but I don't want to limit my options in case I change my mind and want to hitch something else.

On the harbor Freight Trailer, specifically this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90154
what is involved in moving the axle/wheels back for better weight distribution? Is it just a matter of drilling a few holes or is welding required? Is it recommended that a welder reinforce any of these less expensive trailers?

I guess what I am looking for is a suitable trailer for a 4x8 that will be sturdy enough for a cross country trip and will allow any needed modification without welding if possible. I know nothing about welding.

Will 12" tires be sufficient as long as I repack the bearings and keep an eye on them? If not, how difficult is it to upgrade?

I have seen lots of pics showing builders wooden frame base on their trailer but not a close up showing exactly how it is attached. Is it usually a matter of drilling holes for carriage bolts and applying a strong adhesive? If so, will drilling possibly weaken the frame?

Any help is appreciated and I'm sure these questions have been asked before so if you have a link, please post. So much info on here, I have trouble keeping it straight!

[TPMcGinty]

1.25" is the receiver size. 1 7/8" is the ball size. You can put a 1 7/8" ball on a 1.25" receiver. Hope this helps.

[bobhenry]

Your forester more than likely has a 1 1/4 class 2 reciever type hitch. This 1 1/4 square hole recieves the "draw bar" this is also called a ball mount. They come in 2" incrament of raise (or drop by turning it upside down). You will want a draw bar that measures about 15"-16" from the ground . By the time you insert the 1 7/8 diameter ball that will fit you HF trailer coupler you should be about 17" at the top of the ball. This should tow your trailer level to slightly nose down which will be fine. The 2000# rated class 2 is an excellent choice for the tiny trailers as it is plenty husky enough without being large and bulky. The removable drawbar allows you to tow multiple trailers that may rest level at different heights.
If you feel you need a bit more coaching a u haul company store can size you up with what you may need to get ready to tow.

Bob

[synaps3]

Question on hitch size- the oem Subaru hitch offered for my Forester I believe is 1.25" but some have told me to at an aftermarket 2" hitch. The harbor Freight trailer I am looking at says it has a 1 7/8 ball receiver. I may be getting the hitch receiver measurement and the ball measurement mixed up, can someone explain what I need to look for?
I will likely be using the hitch for only the tear, but I don't want to limit my options in case I change my mind and want to hitch something else.

Bobhenry's response says everything I would have. Bottom line -- your hitch is fine. Buy a draw bar and a 1 7/8" ball, and put them in the hitch to tow.

On the harbor Freight Trailer, specifically this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90154
what is involved in moving the axle/wheels back for better weight distribution? Is it just a matter of drilling a few holes or is welding required? Is it recommended that a welder reinforce any of these less expensive trailers?

You just drill holes to move it back. The trailers are made of steel that is overkill enough that a few holes won't affect the structure in any way.

The bolt-togethers can come apart, so at the very least apply loc-tite to each bolt, and tighten it as much as you can without shearing it. Drive over some washboard roads, and retighten again. Then, build on it. You could also weld -- that is certainly the best option, but for the cost of doing that, you might as well just buy a prebuilt trailer from Northern Tool or TSC. Many, many people have used the bolt-together with no welding, with no problems.

I guess what I am looking for is a suitable trailer for a 4x8 that will be sturdy enough for a cross country trip and will allow any needed modification without welding if possible. I know nothing about welding.

Then the simple Harbor Freight trailer will work great! Be sure to get the one with 12" wheels!

Will 12" tires be sufficient as long as I repack the bearings and keep an eye on them? If not, how difficult is it to upgrade?

You probably won't want to upgrade to tires larger than 12" -- that would put too much strain on the spindles. Just repack the bearings yearly, and you'll be golden.

I have seen lots of pics showing builders wooden frame base on their trailer but not a close up showing exactly how it is attached. Is it usually a matter of drilling holes for carriage bolts and applying a strong adhesive? If so, will drilling possibly weaken the frame?

The former, not the latter. Carriage bolts will work well, adhesive might break.

Welcome to the forum.

[BillZ]

I meant using both adhesive and bolts. I realize adhesive alone would not be smart.

Thanks for the info. It is very helpful. After looking at the TSC trailer,
http://www.tractorsupply.com/trailers-t ... wr-1000215
I like it but shouldn't the tongue be reinforced with some angle iron going from just behind the tongue to the sides of the frame? Is that a simple mod?
can you buy the parts for that purpose or is it something that one has to make?