Balance question

[05liberty]

Well Im starting the planing stage of my little TTT rebuild and have a problem with the tongue ! I cannot couple to my jeep liberty with out removing the spare tire because where the tongue jack is !(red square ) I don’t want to be removing the spare from the Jeep every time I tow so I was thinking of removing the existing coupler and extending the tongue about a foot with a piece of 2" x 3" x 3/16 ?? My next issue ( yellow square ) , I would like to put a tongue box here and keep the propane carrier . Could I extend this also & will this throw the balance of the trailer off ?

[bobhenry]

Dave before you go to all that trouble you might look for an extended ball mount. I purchaced one so I could drop the tail gate on the pickup without interference from the jack.

[rainjer]

I understand your problem. I have a Liberty also. You can get a extra long ball mout at most U-haul stores. It is about 3-4 inches longer than the standard one. I think this would get you clear of the tire. I have not bought one yet but I intend to at some time.

I would 2nd think the tongue box idea. I would be afraid you would be pushing the limits of your tongue limit on the Jeep.

Jeremy

[05liberty]

bobhenry & rainjer;
I was thinking about the extended drawbar also but I understand it drops the tongue weight , probally not enough to make a difference though
As far as the tongue box I was also thinking of a rack on the back but that might make the trailer "tail" heavy. I might beable to counteract that with load storage inside ?!?
About 90% of my camping is "boondocking " so storage & the ability to bring what I need is important .
Ill have to do some thinking about this
Thanks for the responce

[synaps3]

I keep one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=97685 on the back of my CR-V at all times. Our two pups sit in the trunk of the CR-V (the whole trunk is their "seat"), and the little one needs the step to get in unassisted.

They also have an extension: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=98677

Any hitch extension (this step included) will increase sway -- but if you are making the tongue longer, that will reduce sway. Any hitch extension will also effectively INCREASE your tongue weight, because it is more strain on the back mounting point. If you've got a huge, beefy aftermarket hitch, then it shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't want to put any extension on a 1 1/4" hitch or a stock hitch though.

If I were you, I would get the step or extension, and not extend the tongue. Extending that tongue will be a nightmare...

What is the current tongue weight, and how much will you be putting in the tongue box? If your tongue weight is several hundred pounds heavier than it needs to be, a rear rack might be a better idea...

[Cliffmeister2000]

Jeeps have a short wheelbase (as do CR/Vs). If you extend the hitch, you increase the likelyhood that your trailer will "wag the dog" and you could lose conrol. On a long wheelbase vehicle (like a pickup), the increased length will have negligible effect. On a Jeep, I would avoid this! I would have your tongue extended.

[05liberty]

synaps3;
Im in the same boat regarding the doggy , the back of the jeep is her area and that’s part of my problem with the jack that is on the trailer I cannot open the rear gate , maybe I will just change the factory jack for a folding one .

I have often thought the hitch extension was another point of movement that might cause a problem (sway) so Im not really to keen on that

As far as changing the tongue , we have two welder fabricators at work ( heavy construction equipment) so I am not really concerned about it being done right and strong enough .

I am thinking if I remove the factory coupler and have the welder add a piece of 2" x 3" X 3/16 steel extending 1 foot longer than the end of the existing coupler leaving the “A frameâ€

[bobhenry]

I have a little Ritz travel trailer almost identical to yours and there are cubby holes under every seat and cabinet inside.

I can not begin to imagine needing more storage in a trailer of this size.
I would just invest in some totes or grab a few milk crates or even build a few wooden boxes to go under the benches.

Mine DOES has a rear trunk over the watertank in the rear as well.
( which I have never used ).

Rethink this a bit and this time think INSIDE the box

[05liberty]

Cliffmeister2000;
I was just relaying that in my last post ...

bobhenry;

Well the best thing , or worst , about mine is that its gutted .. Not a thing in it , so I guess I should think about designing some storage inside ! Im still working on the interior design ! Im going to put the tongue box on hold for now I think ,

I have to take it down to the frame & build it back up so I can do it any way I need to .

I found an example of what im thinking of for extending the tongue ( sorry the photo is not the greatest ) the red arrow is approximately where the factory coupler is / was and the yellow line is where I am thinking of adding the new tongue extending a foot forward

[synaps3]

That's called a composite tongue.

It's a good idea -- you need to make sure the center span extends all the way back to the chassis or you lose strength. I had the same idea on my TTT:


I was also concerned about space -- then I looked at the way I was making my bed, and realized that there would be a 2'x6.5'x5' volume of storage under the bed alone! I agree with bobhenry -- design the inside and go from there!

[angib]

Most commercially built trailers don't have a huge excess of unused strength in the A-frame. Your plan to extend it will increase the bending load on the existing tongue by as much as 50% (because that's how much more overhang you'll have), so you might push it over its limit and start it cracking.

To reinforce the existing A-frame would take quite a bit of work - there is no point just reinforcing the exposed bit of A-frame as the biggest bending load is right under the front edge of the body. As a rule of thumb, the reinforcement under the body should be as long as the exposed length of the A-frame.

Please note that I'm not saying the A-frame is not strong enough to be extended much - but I am saying it may not be strong enough to be extended much.

Andrew

[eamarquardt]

I agree that with the short wheel base of the jeep and the additional leverage using an extender on the tow vehicle isn't such a great idea.

If you cut off the existing coupler you could add a section of 3" square tubing and then use a piece of 2" or 3" tubing under it to connect the addition to the existing first and second cross members of your frame. Given the strenght of the existing rails I think 2" 1/8 wall would be plenty strong for the additional length.

Here's a pic of my tongue.



Just imagine cutting off the tubing right behind the hole for the tongue jack and putting a tube underneath to connect the additional piece and two cross members.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[05liberty]

I have decided not to bother with the tongue box & mess with the A-frame
I do still have to extend the coupler part though and it seems to be that alot of , like my self , dont like the idea of a drawbar extender .
I think what I will do is add the 2x3 box channel from the middle crossbar forward ( 1foot past the existing coupler) I feel this shouldnt add any additonal stress to the existing A-frame ( Andrew ???)
Thanks every one for your responce post some more photos when I get this part done ...

[05liberty]

I have decided not to bother with the tongue box & mess with the A-frame
I do still have to extend the coupler part though and it seems to be that alot of , like my self , dont like the idea of a drawbar extender .
I think what I will do is add the 2x3 box channel from the middle crossbar forward ( 1foot past the existing coupler) I feel this shouldnt add any additonal stress to the existing A-frame ( Andrew ???)
Thanks every one for your responce post some more photos when I get this part done ...

[bobhenry]

Hey Dave

On the interior remodel here is a couple of thoughts.

I have a fellow locally that has a residential salvage store. He has his finger on all kinda overrun and slightly imperfect cabinets , windows , doors and what ever. IT is a hoot everytime I get over there. If you could find a source like this you might concider the 15 to 18" over the fridge type cabinets to mount high on the side walls over the setting area.
If you construct some legged benches you could probably order doors only and make below the seats storage lockers. If you have a spare 36" of floor space you might concider stacking 2 or even 3 12" deep by 28 - 36 wide wall cabinets one on top of another and make a standing llocker/pantry. Another tip baby safety latches will keep cabinets closed and things in place in route. I bought 5 cabinets for the barn all matching for about $150 and I am almost sure I would have had as much or more in lumber stain and all the hardware.