black goo

[timlsalem]

It was almost dry this morning. Tacky just in spots. I went ahead and scraped about 1/4 of a gallon off the floor panels. FYI, If I had used the 4" putty knife, I used to scrape with, to apply it, it would have been easier and uniformed. Oh well, don't mean nothing.







KIA'S--MIA'S--POW'S--DAV'S--are what our freedom cost us

[planovet]

Patience Grasshopper

[synaps3]

I used the Henry stuff last night, and it's completely dry already. I put 3/4 of a gallon over a 6'8"x12' surface, using a standard brush. Went on easier than paint.

I'll take a pic of my can later tonight...

[doug hodder]

Has anyone just used tar paper? When I roofed a house we put the roofing paper down and used light tar sealant and flashing on the edges. Would this work?
Just a thought.

Claw...I think the drawback here is the the tar paper is suspended or would sag under the tear and might help hold in moisture unless it's completely adhered underneath, I guess you could paint it out with tar and flop the paper over it all. However, I just can't see tar paper holding up to rocks etc...that may kick up. On a roof, it doesn't allow for moisture to lay under the paper as it's roofed over. I had a 49 Kit that was just painted ply and was still in good shape in '91 when I sold it. It was kept in Colo. most of it's life however and most of the paint was gone. It all sort of depends on how you store it and the humidity of where you live.

Here in N. Cal and out west, many of us don't use the tar, (however I can't speak for all of us) but just prime and paint with a good oil based enamel. I've built 5 like that. Others opinions may vary, just my experience. Doug

[bobhenry]

Has anyone had experiences with both Henry's Asphalt Roof Coating and the Black Beauty Asphalt Fence Post Paint? Are there pros/cons to each? How do they compare?

vs.

I used a very similar fence post product on the top and bottom of "the barn"



Poured out a puddle and rolled it out with a floppy roller and also used a 4" paint brush to work it into tight corners. It had the consistancy of pancake syrup. On a 5 x8 surface was able to cover a coat in 4-5 minutes. I found I could recoat in 25 - 30 minutes (it was a hot dry day with a good breeze) I put 3 real heavy coats on the underside and the picture above is a single coat on top. The fence post product is designed to flow into the wood so it is well diluted with a quick flash off diluant I am simply guessing but with the quick flash off it was probably a naptha MEK combination as a carrier. This allows the heavier bodied smackover oils to be used in the product and will keep it in suspension until the carrier is gone. It dried to tacky in 30 minutes left a glass like hard surface in 48 hours. I was very please at ease of application and the final coating thickness and even the look.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I used a very similar fence post product on the top and bottom of "the barn"


It dried to tacky in 30 minutes left a glass like hard surface in 48 hours. I was very please at ease of application and the final coating thickness and even the look.

So thats what your's looked like when it dried?! That glossy?! Mine dried with an almost rubberized texture.

[synaps3]

^ That's what I used. Henry 107 Asphalt Emulsion paint. I think it was $11/gal.

[synaps3]

^ That's what I used. Henry 107 Asphalt Emulsion paint. I think it was $11/gal.

[claw73]

Doug-
Thanks! It sounds like the emulsion doesn't take too long and will still dry so I'll go with that. I didn't want you to think I wasn't listening though!

[Jerry Bleeg]

I used the Henry's 107 also. A nice thing about this product is it is water based. So it's easy to clean up splatters and your hands, it's low odor, and it dries pretty quickly. Some of the other oil based products smell bad and take a long time to dry.
I spritzed water onto the bottom of my floor before applying this as per the instructions to help with penetration and retard drying times. (it was a warm evening). I used a mini roller and applied a second coat the next morning. At 12.00 per gallon, it's competitively priced against paint and a good choice for the bottom of a trailer. I agree with Doug, that here in N. Cal, just painting is a good choice also.

[Hikerjohnd]

Is there any difference in fibered vs non-fibered asphalt emulsion? For coating underside of trailer that will definitely see it's share of wet conditions?

I read one journal that specified he used fibered but see online that non-fibered seems more common.

Also I plan to order marine-grade plywood for the floor. Not sure what that is exactly but my dad made our garage doors out of that stuff and 40 years later, they are still hanging strong (the right one sags a bit but we used to swing on that one). I figure that grade of ply will make a sturdy floor!

[alffink]

hikerjohnd

My tear is in southern CA and admitedly we don't see the rain that you will, but mine has been thru rain, snow, desert dirt roads, muddy desert roads....etc for nearly 4 years now, and the bottom of the railer is nearly as clean as when I first coated and insulated it

Does not see much spray, splash etc, now, I haven't forded any creeks or streams as yet.....not in the plans either, but ya never can tell.

[Nosty]

I mentioned this in an earlier post, but beware the Henry's 501. I made the foolish mistake of thinking more was better. It hardened really well on the bottom of the deck boards, (which I had to apply with a trowel), but when I put it around the inside wheel wells, it never hardened. It's been consistently in the 90's down here and, eight weeks later, the inside stuff is still gooey. I'm considering scooping it off and spraying it with undercoating when I spray the outside fender wells. The 501 was a little more expensive, too. Right stuff for the right job, I guess. Live and learn.

Zach, love the basset hound in your picture. I love that breed. Dedicated and loyal to the end, but as stubborn as can be.

Brian

[ebonbetta]

HeyTim in salem, wondering how big your storage unit is ?

[SmokeyBob]

On our first camper I use the roofing asphalt. Thick stuff and a lot of work to apply.

On our second build I used the fence post stuff. A lot thiner and easier to apply.