frozen bearing please help **update**

[dh]

Can't quiet tell from the picture, does the spindle have a step in it or is that a sleeve? Some spindles have a replaceable sleeve on them. You might have to resort to profesionals to get it off though.

[bobhenry]

Grinder ( One of my best HF buys at $14.00) This little tool has become indispensable for everything. With a sanding head attached you can shape all kinda wooden things. Wife caught me sharpening my carpenters pencil with it one day.

But back to the topic Gringer , chisle and hammer. One step everyone seemed to miss is to dress the axle with some real fine emery paper after removal. The new bearing should slide right into place with out a snag and with no slop in the fit. If the axle shaft is scored deeply those tools will be a small investment compared to your new replacement axle assembly.

[Larwyn]

Since WD-40 has been mentioned, I thought I might mention this, I have read that a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone will result in a more effective penetrating oil than any of the commercially available products.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 ............... 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ........... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........... 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

I have not used it myself but I do have the ingredients sitting on the shelf waiting for a likely suspect. I have heard that the mixture does not store well so it is better mixed in small batches as needed.

[eamarquardt]

I have a lead hammer I have for this type of thing, you can give it hell and not worry about dinging anything. Brass hammers work well too, but with lead I can re-cast a head in house.

I beg to differ. You can ding things with a lead or brass hammer. When I worked as a maintenance supervisor in a paper mill I threatened to take one of the mechanic's brass hammer away as he would beat on things, file them back into shape, and would (in the process) ruin a machined fit. Brass and lead hammers have uses but they will ruin a machined surface.

Maybe you "tap softly but carry a big hammer".

If you are careful, the grinder option, IMHO, is the best bet. You won't gaul the shaft removing the bearing, a grinder is inexpensive and has (as pointed out many) uses, and cleanup of the shaft will be minimal as compared to pulling off a rusted, stuck bearing.

There you have it, again, the "World According to Gus".

Cheers,

Gus

[Dale M.]

I would go with grinder option....

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty ... 91223.html

Get a package of "cut off" wheels along with tool....

And Safety glasses....

http://www.harborfreight.com/scorpion-s ... 90436.html

Or full face shield...

http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable ... 46526.html

Besides you WILL find many uses for it in future once you have it....

I chose a better quality than HF (Craftsman) but this will do the job....

Dale

[eamarquardt]

I chose a better quality than HF (Craftsman) but this will do the job....

My Makita is still going strong after almost 30 year of use!

Cheers,

Gus

[Larwyn]

I chose a better quality than HF (Craftsman) but this will do the job....

My Makita is still going strong after almost 30 year of use!

Cheers,

Gus

I have a couple of older grinders by Milwaukee (10+ years old) that run smoother, quieter and better than my 3 or 4 year old DeWalts. The only one I have from Harbor Freight that still runs, shakes like a paint shaker and sounds like a klaxon. But if you are already half deaf and can hang on for the ride I suppose you could say that it still works......

[eamarquardt]

But if you are already half deaf and can hang on for the ride I suppose you could say that it still works...... :lol:

As a matter of fact I am half deaf. Lost pretty much all the hearing in my left ear during brain surgery at the University of Pittsburg where the "pro from Dover" for my "disease" hangs out!

Cheers,

Gus

[BillZ]

Since WD-40 has been mentioned, I thought I might mention this, I have read that a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone will result in a more effective penetrating oil than any of the commercially available products.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 ............... 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ........... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........... 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

I have not used it myself but I do have the ingredients sitting on the shelf waiting for a likely suspect. I have heard that the mixture does not store well so it is better mixed in small batches as needed.

That is interesting info. I would need to get some acetone to try it out but I have to do something. I just tried using a frozen towel on the axle while I heated up the bearing with the torch-still not budging. I am going out to the local RV supply store right now to get replacement bearings and seals for the bad side and will check with the guy there about removing the stuck bearing. Maybe he has some good ideas.

[starleen2]

I'll wager that he says - grinder/chisel or bearing puller. If penetrating lube doesn't get it right away - they don't waste any more time with "exotic" stuff

[BillZ]

Well, I went to Harbor Freight and at one point had a grinder in one hand and a bearing/gear puller in the other. I opted with the puller, figuring that it is something handy for the trailer's tool box in case I had a bearing issue on the road. It turned out to be the wrong choice.

When I tried it, another problem came to light. The bearing backs up to a step in the spindle resulting in only about 3/16" of the back of the bearing to grab onto. The hooks on the puller are rounded and chromed and they slip off as soon as I start cranking on the nut.

So, I thought about putting my heavy duty pipe wrench around the back of the bearing and hooking the puller to the wrench...



It got much tighter than I could get it before, so much so that I had to put a pipe on my wrench handle for extra leverage. I cranked on it with all my strength before the puller post bent and the claws slipped off.

Needless to say, I need to calm down and find something else to do for a few hours before I take this @#$ trailer and dump it in the river!

[teardrop_focus]

Late to the thread here...

In the pic above, is it the bearing's inner race that's glued (sic) to the spindle?

In that case then cut a couple of v-grooves into the race approx 180 degrees apart, almost to the spindle but not quite; then take a chisel and crack that puppy off o' there...

[Arne]

wear eye protectors.. my nephew has a piece of steel in his neck from hard steel shattering when whacked.....

[eamarquardt]

Late to the thread here...

In the pic above, is it the bearing's inner race that's glued (sic) to the spindle?

In that case then cut a couple of v-grooves into the race approx 180 degrees apart, almost to the spindle but not quite; then take a chisel and crack that puppy off o' there...


:hammer:

You, sir, are not paying attention. I suggested the grinder and chisel approach yesterday.

A "convertible" teardrop is not, IMHO, a fully monocoque structure.

Cheers

Gus

[BillZ]

Late to the thread here...

In the pic above, is it the bearing's inner race that's glued (sic) to the spindle?

In that case then cut a couple of v-grooves into the race approx 180 degrees apart, almost to the spindle but not quite; then take a chisel and crack that puppy off o' there...

.

That is going to be my next approach. I remembered a neighbor that works on cars and asked him if I could borrow his grinder. He was happy to lend it to me.