Axle question w/pics

[mezz]

OK, here is what I got.. It's a 5X8 and I'm looking to do an off-road setup.



Here is a shot of the axle..



And here is the info tag



Now, is the the type of axle I can "Spring Over?" I would like to just unbolt it, rotate the axle so the perches are up and rebolt it to the bottom of the springs.. Yes? No? help a newb out

[PaulC]

Yup, you can do that. Remember that you are only gaining extra clearance, consider shock absorbers as part of the conversion.

Cheers
Paul

[StormRider]

At a minimum, replace the u-bolts. Seeing the rust on the threads, it'll go a lot faster if you cut the bolts anyway.

You should also strongly consider having spring perches welded to the top of the axle, as most axles have a slight upward bow in them, so they are straight under full rated load. If you simply rotate the axle, the bow will point down, and get worse under load, possibly leading to poor tire wear.

This is also a great time to add shocks, either using a u-bolt plate that has a shock mount, or having tabs welded to the axle.

[PaulC]

At a minimum, replace the u-bolts. Seeing the rust on the threads, it'll go a lot faster if you cut the bolts anyway.

You should also strongly consider having spring perches welded to the top of the axle, as most axles have a slight upward bow in them, so they are straight under full rated load. If you simply rotate the axle, the bow will point down, and get worse under load, possibly leading to poor tire wear.

This is also a great time to add shocks, either using a u-bolt plate that has a shock mount, or having tabs welded to the axle.

They must build axles differently up there, especially the round type pictured, as all of ours a perfectly straight.

Cheers
Paul

[eamarquardt]

They must build axles differently up there, especially the round type pictured, as all of ours a perfectly straight.

Cheers
Paul

Yup, but I've seen em both ways!

Cheers,

Gus

[Trackstriper]

Probably want to lighten up on your springs too.

Since you already have springs in place, build the trailer then weigh it loaded with gear. Then remove some leaves from the existing springs or look into replacing the springs with appropriately rated new ones, they're not that expensive.

[madjack]

...first take a straight edge and place it along the bottom of axle...if there is no bow, you can rotate the axle...if there is an upward bow, you will havvta cut off the old spring perches and have a set mounted on top of axle...removing one leaf from each spring pack may be advisable as well as adding taller tires............................
madjack

[StormRider]

At a minimum, replace the u-bolts. Seeing the rust on the threads, it'll go a lot faster if you cut the bolts anyway.

You should also strongly consider having spring perches welded to the top of the axle, as most axles have a slight upward bow in them, so they are straight under full rated load. If you simply rotate the axle, the bow will point down, and get worse under load, possibly leading to poor tire wear.

This is also a great time to add shocks, either using a u-bolt plate that has a shock mount, or having tabs welded to the axle.

They must build axles differently up there, especially the round type pictured, as all of ours a perfectly straight.

Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:

You need a straight edge to see it.

[mezz]

Awsome.. Thanks for all the info.. I will take a straight edge to it and see whats going on. I have some old 31X10.50X15 Radial tires/wheels I plan on using, so springing over will prolly look good with those. Have happy thoughts about a straight axle! I dont want to bug my neighbor (who has a welder).

Cheers!

Mezz

[Forrest747]

I had my axel on the outside of teh spring and decied i didnt like that too high. So i moved it to the inside and instead of removing the bracket i bought two new ones, and welded those into place. Alot less hassle that way.

[sschevel]

Could you do me a quick favor?
What is the distance between the top of the axle to your frame. Well the top of the axle mount on the top of your axle to the frame?

I am trying to determine what travel you have.

[Forrest747]

Could you do me a quick favor?
What is the distance between the top of the axle to your frame. Well the top of the axle mount on the top of your axle to the frame?

I am trying to determine what travel you have

If I recall correctly I have 2-3/4" travel before the frame and spring mount touch.

[meach4x4]

Let me toss a few more considerations into the mix here:

- One of the builders here on the forum (schancy) built an off-road version of his lightweight Explorer Box trailer. To get a great ride and enough lift for a bit larger tires, he welded on shackle mounts to fit springs from a YJ Wrangler ('89-'95-) and removed leafs from the springs to get a good rate for the weight of his trailer (~1,000 lbs). He noted that the longer springs were way more supple, and 40 mph across washboard was no problem with no bouncing.

- Nice idea using the factory trailer for a base. They are a great start for a trailer. I let one slip through my fingers (sold it to buy my Wells Cargo V nose, and now I am looking at building another trailer, I am kicking myself for not hanging on to it.

- If you are going to tow on trails (which is how I translate "off road") I would recommend keeping lightweight constructon at the head of the list of goals. I didn't see what you are planning on using for a tow vehicle, but any off road tow rig will be limited by the amount of weight you are pulling behind it. Instead of using 2x4s, or 2x2s, and 3/4" ply, consider using 1x1 framing and Luan or 1/4" Birch. For walls, if you are using foam board insulation, you can glue the insulation between the paneling for a sandwich that will give a lot of strength without the weight.

- Consider adding brakes to the trailer. Even a lightweight trailer is going to try to push your towrig down a steep trail. With brakes on the trailer, you won't be fighting a trailer when you're going down a steep slick trail. Be sure to tune the brake controller for the load AND the trail traction. Another advantage of trailer brakes is on slick trail you can use the brake controller to manually apply a little brake on the trailer and straighten it out behind your tow vehicle.

- Build the trailer so the center of gravity is low, and build the load restraints to keep the center of gravity low after you load it. I have footman loops and cargo loops in the floor and low along the walls so everything is on the floor during transport. This makes a big difference in how the trailer reacts on off-camber trails and roads.

- Pay attention to being able to seal up the trailer during transport. If you have non-closeable vents and leaks around doors, driving over dusty roads will fill your trailer with dust. Make sure door frames are solid and tight when they are closed.

- I have 31x10.50x15 BFG All Terrain KO's on my cargo trailer, and they work great. A good tire is critical, since you will be working it harder on a rocky trail or washboard than most trailer tires. One of the places I like to camp has 70 miles of washboard road followed by 10 miles of rocky trail to get to the campsite. Normal trailer tires won't hold up. According to the park service, 1 out of 4 vehicles on that road have a flat. Carry a spare!

I hope some of this is helpful,

Gil