I've got a bad delema here

[timlsalem]

Okay madjack. I've got the plastic one also. got it from one of the distributors on here. I'll order another one in the morning.

[eamarquardt]

I think you have a plan. Build the hatch both in place to get an exact fit and in two pieces that are hinged together to eliminate the lower doors originally planned. The only question I have about the plastic hinge is: will it bend the amount required? Madjack can probabaly answer that one! It comes in 50 foot rolls. Maybe someone on the forum has some they can sell you so you don't have to buy a full roll.

Once you get it all done, and recieve kudo's for a clever arrangement say: "Yup, I planned it that way!". That should be your "story" and you should stick to it!

"Stuff" happens to anyone who gets off their posterior and attempts something new! In the book "From a Bare Hull" which is the chronicle of the building of a Westsail 32 sailboat from a "kit", the author burned a hole in his brand new teak deck with a lightbulb (as I recall). His solution: An elaborate circle of trim pieces around an existing or added fitting to fill a fuel or water tank. I can't remember if the fitting was existing or he added it to have a reason for the elaborate trim. He did stop at just the one elaborate trim ring as he said: "Only so many elaborate trim rings are required on a 32 foot sailboat".

Keep the "secret" and no one will be the wiser and everyone will marvel at how clever you are!

Cheers,

Gus

[madjack]

Gus, the hinge in question will do as near to 360*s as can be, the only restrictions are screw heads bumping each other...ALSO, Tim, you need to put a metal strip under the screw heads all the way across the length of the hinge to prevent "puckering" of the plastic...I found that a strip off the skin(.040) works but I usually get a piece of 1/2"x1/16th flat stock from the hardware store and use it for the strip...if you drill your holes for the screw in the AL first, you can then use it to screw down the plastic on each end and then predrill all your screw holes, using the ones in the strip as a guide so it will all fit when installed..........
madjack

[alftinc]

That's why ours came by the name, " Square "Not".

[parnold]

I used the living plastic hinge.

Madjack: Was this stuff pricey? Monroe PMP is one of my vendors, we buy from them every other week. I never knew they made half the stuff I see on that link.

Sorry for borrowing the thread.

[madjack]

Paul, it was around a buck a foot bought in 50' rolls(couple a yrs ago)...the same stuff sells for around 5 bucks a foot from McMaster.........................
madjack

p.s. I used it for all of my hinge needs...galley hatch, doors, cabinets and for several projects around the house...really good and tough stuff........MJ

[parnold]

Paul, it was around a buck a foot bought in 50' rolls(couple a yrs ago).

Sweet!

I'm already thinking about #2, I have a Fleetwing I can't sell so I'm thinking of stripping it to the frame for my next. I'll check on the current wholesale price and maybe order a roll.

Thanks!

[afreegreek]

this is not a problem. just build the hatch in place or you can build it separate but leave the skin wide. then fit the hatch in place and use the outer face of the side as a guide to mark the finish line on the skin.. then trim the excess off..

[bfitz]

I bought 50' a while back...it was about $50 + shipping if I recall correctly. I do have extra.

As for building in place... I learned long ago that I can scribe a line better than I can match 30 measurements and angles in a complex structure. So far, I measured everthing on the frame and the rough profile. Everything else has been done "in place" using gauge marks, rather than actual measurements. It really is the way to go.

[timlsalem]

The hinge I got came in 6' length. I wish I could remember where I got it but it was from an advertizer from the list area here. The guy also sells tear parts and things for doors ect. maybe that will help figure out who I'm speaking of. Your right, I did need to put a metal strip over top of it and had to drill holes also.

[timlsalem]

Madjack is right. It is really good stuff. I was going to go with hurricane hinge but there were so many positive remarks about this product I decided to go with it.

[bobhenry]

I am getting into this kinda late but here is my 2 cents.

Is there any chance the counter was not cut square?

Wether it is or not , can you remove 5/8 from the passenger side rear of the counter and suck in the side to square it.

When I wind up with an out of square minibarn during a build I will use the large truck ratchet straps and pull corner to corner to square the box before installing the roof trusses.

I built one out of square 1 time only and fought it all the way. It looked like crap to me when done I could see the out of square in the drip lines of the shingles but the homeowner was delighted so I said nothing. It was a cosmetic issue and the barn still stands so what the hay. However I learned my lesson and never did it again.

Back to yours if after removing the counter top the left side can be pulled out and the right side can be pulled in by placeing the rear of the trailer in a garage door and ratchet from the trailer to the garage studding. The existing counter top may be able to be cut to fit the newly formed opening if not it may need to be replaced with a new one cut to fit. As the counter top is the only structural member keeping the rear square it will have to be right wether or not it is square trapazoidal or whatever it will need to fit snuggly but without forcing. Build a cabinet front to fit as well this will help hold the sides in position. Again square or not it should be built to fit the newly formed opening after the sides are aligned.

Fix it or fight it. It will haunt you to the final piece and part.

Just my 2 cents. Bob

[timlsalem]

I posted 2 more pic's after using your ideas to work out the problem. Am I on the right track now? The panels are temp. tacked to the frame. I decided to abandon the door idea completely and make a full length one piece hatch to cover all of the galley. I think now I mark the outline of the back and build the frame work. If I'm forgetting something let me know. I'd hate to get this thing started and forgot to take into account something major.

[eamarquardt]

Is the piece on the top going to be permanent or hinged? If hinged, I think I might consider making the lower half in two pieces so it will be easier to fold up on top (a tri fold rather than bi fold as originally suggested). It seems as though you have pretty good access to the top shelf, so not sure what benefit of having the top piece hinged would be.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,


Gus

[timlsalem]

I was thinking just one hinge Gus. The top would be hinged because I have an AC outlet on the bulkhead you can't see from these pic's Also I am going to be putting more cabinets above the table. At this point I'm not too sure I want another hinge on it. Seems like it would be another place moisture would be able to get into. My other idea I've been kicking around in my head is to have a fold down hatch that will come right to the top of the table when closed. Kind of like a pickup tailgate.