Does it matter where I put the ground screw?

[S. Heisley]

Does it matter where I put the grounding screw and if so, where’s the best place? Should I hide the ground under the chassis or take it out to near the end of the tongue or …?

[eamarquardt]

Not clear on what the ground screw will ground. In general you have to get rid of paint on the frame so you have a good electrical connection. If your frame is bolted together all frame members may not be making good electrical contact with each other. Keeping the connection out of the weather and covered in grease (to exlude water to prevent corrosion) are good things to do.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[S. Heisley]

Huh? It's grounding the electrical so it'll work. Where would you put it, Gus?

[Corwin C]

I'm assuming that you're grounding your battery or TV connection to the frame.

I would put it wherever is protected from the weather as much as possible and easy to get to (because you will be visiting it from time to time). I use a little di-electric grease on it as well to help keep corrosion at bay. If you're using a bolt-together trailer, I would still run a separate ground to each fixture rather than relying upon the frame.

[Greg M]

I'll second what Corwin said. Good grounding is the easiest way to ensure your lights work right. On a welded trailer you should be able to attach your ground almost anywhere though I'd suggest an easily accessible place on the tongue, so you can re-do it later if/when it corrodes. On a bolt together, separate grounds to each device is highly recommended. Bring them all back to the ground wire from the harness, and you should never have trouble.

-Greg

[S. Heisley]

Thanks, Corwin and Greg. Out on the protected inside of the closest 'C' channel tongue member is probably best then. The converter handles all the grounding except the actual connection to the frame; so, I think I'll be okay. If not, I'll send up another 'smoke signal' later.

[eamarquardt]

I'm assuming that you're grounding your battery or TV connection to the frame.

I would put it wherever is protected from the weather as much as possible and easy to get to (because you will be visiting it from time to time). I use a little di-electric grease on it as well to help keep corrosion at bay. If you're using a bolt-together trailer, I would still run a separate ground to each fixture rather than relying upon the frame.

I agree that each load should have it's own ground wire back to the battery or convereter. Fiberglass and wood boats have no metal frame and all fixtures are hard wired back to the battery buss. Relying on the frame to as a conductor is a PITA in the long run. If you are talking AC ground, I'm not sure and couldn't find any info on line.

Cheers,

Gus

[angib]

Does it matter where I put the grounding screw?

Nope. Won't work for long wherever you put it....

Like everyone says, wire separately from the frame.

Andrew

[Miriam C.]

Does it matter where I put the grounding screw?

Nope. Won't work for long wherever you put it....

Like everyone says, wire separately from the frame.

Andrew

I did mine both ways. Overdone---you bbetcha....... I have separate grounds to the frame for all the 12vdc lighting. The trailer lighting (running, brakes) are grounded to the vehicle. And the tail lights have a separate ground to the frame.

[S. Heisley]

Thanks, Andrew and Miriam. My running lights are already wired and grounded separately. The cabin is being wired as a separate unit and according to converter instructions. ...I'm getting there....

[Off Grid Rving]

just to clear the air a little, you can ground to the negative terminal of your battery? (well to a grounding block/buss thats attached to the negative terminal of the battery)

[bobhenry]

Nothing in my sleepy side is grounded to the frame!

All inside and galley courtesy lights ( other than the running trailer lights) and outlets simply return to the battery via a grounding block.

[dh]

Yup, I would skip grounding to the frame on the 12V system, run the negatives to a buss bar off the battery or converter. My power center has a negative buss bar built in to it for this, then two 10g wires going from it to the + and - bettery terminals.

Now, on the 120V side... Definately ground the frame.

[S. Heisley]

Thanks, all. I did it both ways, so, I'm covered.

[dh]

Thanks, all. I did it both ways, so, I'm covered.