Ground???

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Ground???

Postby timlsalem » Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:22 pm

This is probably a simple answer. I know the battery in the car is grounded to the chassie. Should the battery in the TT be grounded to the frame too? If your wondering, it isn't. Could this be causeing the problem I'm having with the inverter?
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Postby Dale M. » Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:45 pm

If "ALL" ground circuits in TD are tied "common" (at one single ground bar) there is no real need to attach it to frame or metallic body except for safety purposes if you are NOT using frame or body as a "return" path for wiring...

In any case bonding chassis (frame) and body to "single ground point" can not hurt....

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Postby timlsalem » Mon Jul 26, 2010 2:43 pm

My commons run to a seperate bar in the breaker box. The grounds run to a dedicated ground bar in the breaker box which is grounded to the frame of the tear.
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Postby parnold » Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:40 pm

By having the grounds (negative) go to a bar, which goes to the frame, you have grounded your battery.
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Postby timlsalem » Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:54 pm

Oh, okay, then I'll just ground the inverter and see if that works. If not, I guess I will be stuck listening to the news on the radio. :lol:
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Postby Dale M. » Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:26 pm

What does the instructions for wiring converter say?

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Postby diy4life » Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:37 am

The following is related to the UK...230v! I assume it's similar in US for 110v.
By "ground" do you mean that there is an extra terminal on the body of the inverter as well as the two connections to the battery?
By "frame" do you mean the METAL chassis connected to the axle or a METAL frame for the tear itself?
In the SBMCC I belong to it's suggested that if you should aim to use double insulated appliances. Otherwise this should be connected and the frame should then be connected to earth, as in the land you are parked on and the item fed by a 3 wire cable and plug.
Thats the definition of "Belt and Braces"...If you don't do so you might need to Brace yourself for a Belt from the electrics :lol:
Also use flexible cable instead of single-strand home wiring - it doesn't break as easily under vibration.
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Postby diy4life » Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:40 am

I forgot to say - some electronic equipment only works with an inverter that produces close to a sine wave.
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Postby kstephenson » Sat Aug 14, 2010 4:53 pm

I d recommend grounding to your chassis of your trailer and also running a 10 guage ground to your tow vehicle.
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Postby PaulC » Sat Aug 14, 2010 7:38 pm

The wiring in all my TD's (I'm on No5 build) has never been grounded to the chassis. The reason being is that none of the car electrics are connected to the wiring to run my TD. The trailer lights(brakes, tail,indicators) are separate. If you think of a torch circuit, you will understand. Even the inverter does not need to be grounded to the chassis if you have a separate earthing point for your mains appliances.
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