my subaru forester just laid down on me...

Things that don't fit anywhere else...

Postby steve smoot » Thu Aug 12, 2010 4:38 pm

Hi Miriam,

I hear what you are saying...but, these guys are busier than the Subaru dealer next door. They have 6 bays and they are full.

I do trust the fellows. They just have not had time to get to my car.

Steve
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:07 pm

I finally invested an OBD II reader as I was having a dispute with the dealer and yes it should tell you there is a timing issue.
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Postby emiller » Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:16 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:The timing belt etc may be covered by warranty as it is part of the emissions system, (used to be any way), depending on what is found I would be A) checking the warranty information and B) talking with Subaru of America, and remember they do not want to pay for it so you have to know what your rights are, and hold their feet to the fire!
The belt is supposed to last 115,000 miles.

Most belts are recommended to be changed at 60,000 miles. And are not covered under warranties.
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Postby steve smoot » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:25 pm

emiller wrote:
Shadow Catcher wrote:The timing belt etc may be covered by warranty as it is part of the emissions system, (used to be any way), depending on what is found I would be A) checking the warranty information and B) talking with Subaru of America, and remember they do not want to pay for it so you have to know what your rights are, and hold their feet to the fire!
The belt is supposed to last 115,000 miles.

Most belts are recommended to be changed at 60,000 miles. And are not covered under warranties.


Yes, 60K may be true for some timing belts, but the 2001 Subaru Forester is suggested for replacement of the rubber belt on the 2.5L 4 cyl at 105000 miles. ...
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:26 pm

Subaru scheduled cam belt replacement is 105,000 miles (just checked the manual).
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Postby stumphugger » Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:31 pm

An evil Subaru dealer told me that my car needed a new head gasket. That would be $800 and they could not do the work for a week. I took it to the messy but always busy mechanic in the town I lived in. They asked if the evil dealer had done a compression check. I answered no. They went to work and made a diagnosis, which proved to be correct. My radiator plug was leaking. I think it cost $20. This made me a little bit skeptical of dealers.
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Postby WarPony » Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:10 pm

Miriam C. wrote:Um shouldn't the computer have told the mech. if it was a timing issue. I mean .........

My truck stalled again even after I got it tuned. Just stalled out and the check engine light came on but it started back up.


Ah, alot of people have the misconception that the "computer" will tell you EXACTLY what's wrong with the vehicle. A diagnostic scanner is mearly a "tool" for the mechanic, he/she can use the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) to help figure out what the problem may be but they aren't a tell all. Most but not all DTC's are caused by something other than what the ECM (engine control module) has detected. For instance, I work on GM diesels with Duramax engines and I see alot of "Low Fuel Rail Pressure" codes. It doesn't necessarily mean the fuel pump is bad, could be a plugged fuel filter, pinched fuel line, bad injectors, air intrusion, etc..... a hammer is a tool, also but give it to the wrong person and some serious damage can result.

Steve, I'll be watching this thread...... I'd like to hear what the outcome is.

Miriam, as far as your truck stalling after you got if fixed......... bad mechanics-manship. A good test drive should've revealed the problem.

Jeff
Last edited by WarPony on Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Cliffmeister2000 » Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:15 pm

As far as dealers go, some are real good, some are real bad. I had a front bearing freeze on an old Geo Tracker. The Chevrolet dealer wanted $1,500 to fix it. The Tracker was not worth $1,500, so I had it towed home.

A friend has a shade tree mechanic for a cousin. He fixed it for $150.00. I really enjoy a good 90% discount!~

However, our Mazda dealer is top notch. They are fast, and always come in below their estimate - even on oil changes! :thumbsup:
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Postby emiller » Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:07 pm

Wow your right. 105,000 miles replacement. But it also says in my maintenance manual that the belt should be inspected at 30,000- 60,000 and at 90,000 miles.
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Postby caseydog » Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:36 pm

emiller wrote:Wow your right. 105,000 miles replacement. But it also says in my maintenance manual that the belt should be inspected at 30,000- 60,000 and at 90,000 miles.


Yeah, I saw that, too. The 2.5 has a recommended replacement of 105,000 miles, which is a lot for a timing belt. But, I also saw the "Inspect" every 30,00 miles, which was kind of odd.

With a timing belt, you also have tensioners, and they can go out, too.

On my Audi, the manufacturer recommends replacement at 100,000 miles, but Audi performance junkies suggest 75,000 miles. I have an interference engine with five valves per cylinder -- that's a lot of valves to crush if the belt breaks. So, I figure I will do mine at 80-90,000 miles. Better too safe, than very sorry.

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Postby Miriam C. » Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:40 pm

WarPony wrote:
Miriam C. wrote:Um shouldn't the computer have told the mech. if it was a timing issue. I mean .........

My truck stalled again even after I got it tuned. Just stalled out and the check engine light came on but it started back up.


Ah, alot of people have the misconception that the "computer" will tell you EXACTLY what's wrong with the vehicle. A diagnostic scanner is mearly a "tool" for the mechanic, he/she can use the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) to help figure out what the problem may be but they aren't a tell all. Most but not all DTC's are caused by something other than what the ECM (engine control module) has detected

Miriam, as far as your truck stalling after you got if fixed......... bad mechanics-manship. A good test drive should've revealed the problem.

Jeff


:lol: Well REally I got exactly what I asked for. A tune up, plug wires, fuel filter (which was stuck on :lol: ) and air filter. I probably should have gone with the flush considering how trashed the gas is here.... Think I have a leak in the exhaust too... :roll: I didn't actually ask them to do anything else and these people do good tune ups but I don't know about the rest. :worship:
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:43 pm

I agree the DTC's only tell you so much but one of the codes specific to Subaru's includes timing (I checked). It does not tell you what causes the problem but I would think it would be a darn good indicator that the mechanic is right about the belt jumping.

The 2.2L engine is a non interference engine and the 2.5L is an interference engine, Unfortunately Subaru interference engines, when the belt breaks or jumps you bend valves when they hit the top of the piston which ruins the pistons. It will still turn over and may fire but it will not run well. Nancy's OBW did not make it to 80,000 before one of the idlers and the tensioner started making noise, they were replaced before they failed.

I do not trust the local Toledo Subaru dealer and have all warranty and service work done by competent mechanics.
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Postby steve smoot » Fri Aug 13, 2010 6:34 am

Good morning everyone. I got up at 4:30 this morning, just could not sleep after 3am. I logged on and checked T&TTT. Not much going on at 4:30 in the morning.

I checked Kelly Blue Book price on my Subaru. KBB says $6995-$7820-$8295. Well, my Sub has a few dents, so I would pick the $6995 range.

If the timing belt needs to be replaced, it should cost $700-$800. If it damaged the valves and/or pistons...who knows what it will cost. I will weigh the cost of repairs vs what I could get for the car.

Anyone on here drive a Toyota Tacoma 4x4 extended cab?
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Postby Cliffmeister2000 » Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:05 am

And that's how it all starts... :lol:

My son has a Toyota Tacoma 4X4 Crew cab. He's a little disappointed in it, but I think his expectations are a little out of whack. He has always had Ford F150s and Expeditions. (he has 4 kids). He also has a pretty nice boat. The Tacoma pulls the boat just fine, but the gas mileage tales a beating. The F150 and the Expedition did a better job with the boat.

You will be pulling a teardrop. The Tacoma will handle that nicely. :thumbsup:
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Postby steve smoot » Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:30 pm

Well folks, I just got home with my Subaru...as I parked in the driveway, I swear this to be the truth...the damn 'check engine' light came on... :cry:

Let me tell you what the shop found wrong with the Subaru, which I might add, cost me $376.83 to have it fixed...

First, let's talk about my hearing which must be worse than I thought. My wife is always saying stuff like "what's that noise" to which I always say "what noise"...okay, I have hearing aids, but I just don't like to wear them...

Did you know that the cover over the timing chain on a Subaru Forester is plastic.. I did not know this...also, at least one pulley on the belt for the AC compressor is plastic too...again, I did not know this...well, that plastic pulley had frozen up and it actually melted and fell off. The pulley was so hot it melted a round piece of plastic from the cover which then fell inside the cover which then caused the dang timing belt to jump time which caused me to loose $376.83...

If I had been wearing my hearing aids or at least had paid attention to the "noise" that wife was asking about, it would have only cost a couple bucks to replace the damn pulley in the first place...

just though I would be honest and admit that "it was my fault"...exactly what the therapist had told me "you do not listen to your wife"...geez...
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