Attention used frame builders!!!!

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Attention used frame builders!!!!

Postby doug hodder » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:08 pm

Here's a gadget from 3M that really cleans up the rust, faster than a sanding disc and cheaper than media blasting. It's called a Roloc Disc. I've only seen them at the auto body shop suppliers. the 3" discs are pretty tough stuff impregnated with an abrasive. The adapter kit allows them to be attached either to air or electric grinders/drills, and you have to have the backing pad for them. A 4" grinder works great! They are quick change and good for 20K RPM. You can cover a lot of ground fast when frame prepping. Don't let them get into skin...eats it up fast as well. Just an idea. Doug



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Postby Lou Park » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:11 pm

Make sure you wear safety glasses with these, or you'll be sorry.
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Postby Dale M. » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:26 pm

Lou Park wrote:Make sure you wear safety glasses with these, or you'll be sorry.


With ANY power tools.....

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Postby doug hodder » Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:27 pm

I agree...anytime you use any abrasive on steel to remove material/ paint or rust you ought to wear eye protection. These are a whole lot more user friendly than a wire cup however. Those little wires are like stainless arrows! Doug
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:13 pm

My experience derusting the Saab Sonett (rust belt car) is they were not very durable/long lasting and marginally effective.
I bought a 9" grinder (HF) and bit the bullet and bought a cup wire wheel. VERY effective but wear a face shield AND HEAVY pants welding leathers or just plain armor, as the wires are projectiles (I looked vaguely like a porcupine the first time) I had worn the face shield.
Or buy a 4 1/2" grinder and supply of wire wheels but still use the face shield!!! the wires don't embed them selves quite as deeply BUT... Also use some sort of gas mask, I used a surplus Israeli mask with NBC filter and I usually came out rust colored. Best is to get to white metal with zero rust present and prime immediately.
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Postby doug hodder » Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:36 pm

Well, I don't live in a rust belt....it works for me...do whatcha' want.
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Postby Dean in Eureka, CA » Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:15 am

A face shield offers more protection than safety glasses...
I've had stuff get in my eyes while wearing a face shield and safety glasses at the same time. Pay attention to the rotation of the tool and postion your body away from the line of fire if at all possible. :SG
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Postby 48Rob » Sat Sep 25, 2010 5:41 am

Doug,

Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:

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Postby starleen2 » Sat Sep 25, 2010 10:25 am

:thinking: :twisted: :thumbsup:
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Postby Zollinger » Sun Sep 26, 2010 2:22 pm

Used one of those two weeks ago on our Vagabond frame and it worked great. Safety glasses with side shields are a must.
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Postby parnold » Sun Sep 26, 2010 2:49 pm

Those are called "cookies" in the business. They also come in 4" size. I sell a ton of them. It's one of the patents that 3M (Money, Money, Money) has a tight grip on, so no one really copies them. Used in auto body shops to remove seam sealer (the paste they use where two metal surfaces meet), but they work great on rust as Doug found out, they don't clog as quickly as surface prep discs do.
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Postby Kevin A » Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:11 pm

They work great on oil pan/valve cover gaskets too. But for some reason they don't work on Saabs. ;) :lol:
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Postby dh » Mon Sep 27, 2010 8:46 pm

Nobody else mentioned it, so I will. It isn't a bad idea to wear some type of dust mask while using this type of tool as well.
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