Advice please-used pop-up trailer frame to teardrop convers.

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Advice please-used pop-up trailer frame to teardrop convers.

Postby jon p » Wed Sep 22, 2010 9:23 pm

I picked up a used frame today for $100 bucks. I want to make the deck of my teardrop 6ftx10ft and was happy that this frame is exactly that. My plan is to cut off the old bumper mounts, either grind it down or have it sandblasted, and paint it. My dad is a master welder and I will also have him inspect the frame and weld some spots that looks to be separating where the frame joins in places. The guy was honest with me and told me he thinks the frame has been overloaded. The wheel are toed in and the axle is arcing. I have a list of questions I was hoping you all could help me out with and give me advice.
1.Sandblast or grind down? Pros/cons of each?
2.What type of paint to use? Por-15?
3.New axle and if so where to buy? New hubs?
4.Keep the brakes or remove them.
5. Upgrade from 12 inch to larger wheels?

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Re: Advice please-used pop-up trailer frame to teardrop conv

Postby Dale M. » Wed Sep 22, 2010 9:59 pm

jon p wrote:I picked up a used frame today for $100 bucks. I want to make the deck of my teardrop 6ftx10ft and was happy that this frame is exactly that. My plan is to cut off the old bumper mounts, either grind it down or have it sandblasted, and paint it. My dad is a master welder and I will also have him inspect the frame and weld some spots that looks to be separating where the frame joins in places. The guy was honest with me and told me he thinks the frame has been overloaded. The wheel are toed in and the axle is arcing. I have a list of questions I was hoping you all could help me out with and give me advice.
1.Sandblast or grind down? Pros/cons of each?


Sand blast will be quickest and most efficient way to clean it up, otherwise expect to spend hours with grinder and wire wheel...

2.What type of paint to use? Por-15?


Good product but maybe not necessary, Rustoleum primer and semigloss black paint may sufficient....

3.New axle and if so where to buy? New hubs?


If axle is solid and spindles are not damaged, why not clean up and reuse, may only need new seals and maybe a replacement bearing or two..

4.Keep the brakes or remove them.


Keep them, the are a plus as long as the work properly...

5. Upgrade from 12 inch to larger wheels?


Maybe not a bad idea, more choices on tire sized and load rating with larger tire, also look more "in style" with traditional TD design..

Dale
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Postby bobhenry » Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:20 am

I have an opinion on the " toed in and bent axle topic "
Many of these units have pre cambered axle sets. As the axle is loaded it actually flattens out. I think you have found a gem. I would use it much the same as you have found it. Were it mine I would very lightly sand or wire brush the frame simply to knock off scale and road grime and apply 3-4 rattle cans of automotive undercoating to the frame saving you hours and hours of hard work. If you are building "wheels under" tires are not as much of a feature so if they appear sound and roadworthy use them.
Most are 6 or 8 ply so they are far more stout than you give them credit. If you really want to spend $$$ Get 2 brand new tires and keep an original for a spare. That is a surge brake system and they are excellent. Very low maintainance and the only time you feel them working is if you attempt to back up uphill. (You need to block them out to do this)Pull the hubs and make sure all parts move freely and by all means change out the brake fluid. While it doesn't wear out it gathers moisture and looses the anti rust additives over time so remove and replace with as much fresh fluid as you can.
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Postby jon p » Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:17 am

bobhenry wrote: Were it mine I would very lightly sand or wire brush the frame simply to knock off scale and road grime and apply 3-4 rattle cans of automotive undercoating to the frame saving you hours and hours of hard work.

Thanks for the advice. Do you have any experience using this method? If so how long could I expect the coat to last as opposed to sandblasting? I'm hoping to not have to repaint the frame every year to keep it looking good.
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Postby bobhenry » Thu Sep 23, 2010 4:29 am

It's damn tough stuff !

3 years under "Chubby" (The tear) and still lookin good. I recently added a tongue reinforcement to the tear and we had to grind the areas where we were to weld and it was tough getting it cleaned off. Used a heavy wire cup brush an about when you thought you were winning it simply melted and ran back together. When applied this product (advance autoparts) left a nice textured finish.



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Postby J.Heyboer » Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:29 am

I would recommend sandblasting, You could spend an entire week grinding and you would never get all the rust out.

Also, the sandblaster will get in all the hard to reach places that you can't get to with a grinder.

Check out my build thread

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=37014

I sandblasted mine and it came back looking brand new! I spent $150 and it was worth every penny.

Grinding and sanding with a cup brush and sandpaper is terrible work!

I covered mine with a red rust oxide (similar to rustoleum) rust preventing primer. Then covered with two coats of impliment paint. Both from tractor supply.

The implement paint is VERY durable, and I am very happy with it.

Not an expert but just my experience....

John
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Postby Lesbest » Tue Sep 28, 2010 7:48 pm

If your going to use POR 15 you just knock off the loose stuff and paint it.
Sandblasting takes off the rust, rust that the POR product uses to adhere to the steel.

If you clean it then you need to let it sit for a week outside to form a rusty sheen and then paint.

Clean steel and POR= flaking paint in a couple years.

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Postby teardrop_focus » Tue Sep 28, 2010 11:32 pm

Well, you have the frame coating and prep advice covered...

So I'd like to add that if you're going to really build a traditional teardrop... where people won't be literally standing on the floor of the trailer... then you could eliminate almost half the steel components on that chassis and save some weight. No sense dragging a bunch of extra weight around.

The trick is knowing what to leave intact.

:lol: :pipe:

If the wheels are to be exposed, say, on the outside of a 4-foot-wide teardrop, then, yes; definately invest in some 14" or 15" wheels. You can still use the leaf springs that are on the chassis now, depending on what the original curb weight and load capacity was and how that might compare to a 1200 lb teardrop (loaded w/ your gear).

Good luck and have fun!

:vroom:
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