Stretch Benroy 10/20/13 Update - Campable at last!

[parnold]

That looks like a real good platform for your build!

I'm keeping my eyes open for an old popup to use as a base for my next build!

Love the progress.

I'm wondering if that trailer at one time had breaks. It looks like it has drums on there! That would be a real plus.

[Greywolf]

Hi. We're starting with the same pop-up but we're going to narrow the frame down to 5 feet. Also thinking about switching to a torsion axle. You think yours will be too low? I thought ours would be too high. Have to check some numbers. Good luck. Can't wait to compare progress.

[DudKC]

Hi. We're starting with the same pop-up but we're going to narrow the frame down to 5 feet. Also thinking about switching to a torsion axle. You think yours will be too low? I thought ours would be too high. Have to check some numbers. Good luck. Can't wait to compare progress.

Once we put the new axle on we realized that it will either be too high or too low. The axle we found was a 3,500# axle, with about a 4 inch drop. So if we turn it so the drop is facing up I am thinking it will be too low (bottom of frame less than 10" off ground and springs about 5 or 6 inches off ground). If we flip the springs so the drop is facing down, the top of the frame will be 24" off the ground (which I think is too high). I did these measurements assuming we are going to put 15" rims (which have a tire diameter of 27.4"). If anyone has any thoughts on this they would be much appreciated.

[Greywolf]

I also want to use 15" rims but if I use the original axle and leaf springs my drawing shows the floor level about 21" from the ground. If I want a counter height of 36" that only leaves me about 14.5" for cabinet underneath. I'm also narrowing the frame to 5' because I want the wheels outside of the body. That means I would have to lengthen the existing axle. I also would like to have brakes. That's why I figure the torsion axle would be the least painful way to go.

[DudKC]

Last night we got the axle mounted, after welding new spring seats on the other side to fix our height issue. Now the problem we have, is changing a flat tire will be as close to impossible as it gets with those new 14 inch wheels and tires.

[down under tech]

Hello Dustin: I like the larger wheels and tires. That will make a difference in the ride of your Benroy. You can use those wheels but I would modify your frame and make the piece that goes in front of the wheels. The outside of the trailer. You can have a welder cut them out and make them so you can remove them from the frame if you need to change the wheel and tire. They would have to make a couple of extensions on the part that is cut out and make them so they bolt back on to the trailer frame. This will keep most of the stiffness that was designed in the frame as before and tire changes would be accessible. Just my thoughts on your dilemma.

Good luck on your build.

[DudKC]

Down Under - You pretty much saw our problem without even seeing my other thread I started this morning.

http://mikenchell.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43449

We need to modify the frame somehow, either like your idea, or like the reply I got in the other thread. FWIW, we were originally thinking something more along the lines of what you came up with, so we'll see where we go from here. It's been interesting so far and we haven't even began to make sawdust yet.

[DudKC]

We got our wheel well issue solved by welding some supports into a wheel well. The frame is just as sturdy as it ever was thanks to a couple tubes welded to the underside of the frame, going the entire length, from the tongue to the back.



This weekend we got the floor framed out, and coated with 2 coats of varnish. We'll paint it and add a couple coats of automotive undercoating to really seal it. We also got the wheel wells cut out and varnished. We used 1/2" ply for that, pictures forthcoming.

[DudKC]

Got the frame painted.



Propane line installed.



Floor cut out and dry fit, wheel wells varnished and painted.

[RN]

I have the same frame. I got mine from a 1969 Starcraft Constellation Popup. I am about to post some new pics of structural supports that have been welded at strategic points. I am pondering about sandblasting and powdercoating my frame.

[DudKC]

I have the same frame. I got mine from a 1969 Starcraft Constellation Popup. I am about to post some new pics of structural supports that have been welded at strategic points. I am pondering about sandblasting and powdercoating my frame.

It is a very sturdy frame that's for sure. We were pleased with the decision to get it sandblasted. We didn't go the powdercoating route, but just getting it sandblasted made it look real good once we got it painted.

[RN]

The front support is in that large space in front of the wheel wells where the A-frame connects to the trailer sides. The other is placed from side to side 96 inches from the front of the trailer frame. I plan on my teardrop being 10 feet long.

[DudKC]

The welder who made our wheel wells for us put those 2 supports going from the front all the way to the back out of steel tubing to make up for the lost strength from cutting the sides out.

[DudKC]

We got some more work done yesterday. Pretty soon I think we'll be done with the floor and we'll be moving on to the walls. We got our 2x2 framing and the underside of the 1/2" plywood floor sprayed with the automotive undercoating. If it looks a little light in the pictures, it is. The cans were $7.50 each and we used 8 to get everything covered (mostly) in 1 coat, and 2 coats on some. Hopefully the 2 coats of spar varnish and marine paint will help out on those light areas.



Here is a pic of one of the wheel well pieces while my dad is trimming some sheet metal for a lining. The wheel wells are 1/2" ply, just like the flooring, with 2 coats of varnish, 1 coat of marine paint, and as much of the automotive undercoating as we could get on there. Hopefully the sheet metal will protect all that from flying rocks and it will last a long time.



We got the 2x2 framing attached to the trailer frame with self tapping screws (20 total). So after we get the 1/2" ply screwed to the framing, insulation installed, wheel wells screwed to the 14 ga. angle iron, and vinyl tiles laid down, we'll be ready to move on to the walls. Have we forgotten anything?

[DudKC]

Floor down! Bring on the walls, we're thinking 1/2" oak ply outer, pine 1 x 2 frame, 1/4" ply inner, maybe beadboard.