Installing fixed windows

[greasywheats]

I am at the design stage looking to incorporate a single oval window in my TD in approximately the same location as the Camp-Inn windows on the front curve (my profile is almost exactly like the CI profile, to give you an idea of the curve there). Do any of the window afficionados here have any comments on using the method by 48Rob for my application. Being on a convex surface, will the force of a piece of 3/16" lexan/plexiglas be too much for the window seal to remain water tight? I am not familiar with glass/rubber sealants, but I'm guessing that there are some pretty heavy-duty sealants that you could put in the window seal channel to lock the glass in place. I read the post about how Camp-Inn does their windows, but I'm a novice, so I didn't really get it. I'd really like to pursue a front window, so any other ideas would be welcome!
Thanks!

[Cary Winch]

The method Rob shows is basically the same as we do on our Raindrop. The exception being that rather than solid plwood it is thin paneling and a sheet of aluminum outer skin sandwiched there.

Beetle side windows use a different gasket actually that is meant for a formed opening in the sheetmetal. That is the style that we use on our 550 front windows. That is why they have a nice flush look to the gasketing. But of course that requires the skin to be formed in like on a beetle. That is what we do on ours.

Greasy wheats, if you profile is similiar to ours you should be able to use the flat 3/16 Acrylic and it will flex enough. The radius is large enough that the gasket will compensate. Now, our front Raindrop quarter windows have a smaller radius and we form those in a oven first. But the larger front picture window is in a body curve with a larger radius and we don't need to.

The problem with using Rob's method on a front window is mainly how to trim out the window opening inside decently. Your have to have a thin section of roof in that area. I know one guy who did a oval in his and it didn't work out too good because the aluminum alone wouldn't hold it's shape and did some wierd stuff. This would mean you can't just attach to the aluminum but would need to sandwich to a plywood paneling or something with that glued to a structure close to the window.

Cary

[greasywheats]

Cary- thanks! Took some re-reading there, but i think i understand now... So the problem is that you need to provide a solid "frame" (approx. 3/4") for the gasket to be seated on, in a section of the roof where the curve is made by bending the outer aluminum/plywood skin and thin inner plywood/beadboard ceiling. So there is no substantial framing there to hold the gasket all the way around the opening (and maintain the front radius)....

[Cary Winch]

That is pretty much the idea, there needs to be some support or after the hole in the aluminum is cut it will flare out. Though making it 3/4" thick there might not be the solution. That style of gasket is very common but not for thick wall like Rob used. 3/16" is more likely what you will find. That is what we used on the Raindrop, go to this page and look at pictures of it and you will see how we made a framed opening inside to allow for this:

http://tinycamper.com/topsecret

Pictures 22-26 kind of show the inside and picture 4 shows the outside of a window.

Cary

[MikeDrz]

so you would have to work the aluminum around the corner into the window opening?

That is pretty much the idea, there needs to be some support or after the hole in the aluminum is cut it will flare out. Though making it 3/4" thick there might not be the solution. That style of gasket is very common but not for thick wall like Rob used. 3/16" is more likely what you will find. That is what we used on the Raindrop, go to this page and look at pictures of it and you will see how we made a framed opening inside to allow for this:

http://tinycamper.com/topsecret

Pictures 22-26 kind of show the inside and picture 4 shows the outside of a window.

Cary

[JunkMan]

Can you tell I'm not a Volkswagen man
Rob

I've got several of them, including a "Thing" which I hope to get restored, and possibly build a "weekender" style TD to pull behind it.

We had a heck of a time finding a set of the pop out type windows for my wifes 1956 bug, but I probably have some of the fixed windows laying around if anyone is thinking about trying some.

[angib]

Rob,

Fitting that rubber section looks like hard work! I've only done a rubber into a thinner wall, so the rubber could go on the window first and then both of them get fitted in the body. This means you can just wind a piece of string all round, laid into the body groove - when the window is fitted, pulling on the string rolls the lip in over the body opening. Did that make sense?

Andrew

[Cary Winch]

Michael,

That is exactly the idea. We have a large heavy forming block that the roof skin gets clamped to. The window opening is already cut out. It then gets hand hammered around the former and trimmed flush on the inside edge. The preformed skins then get installed on the roof which also has some structure in place to locate the formed edges.

Andrew,

You got it right on, we use a piece of small gauge wire to do the trick. The window gasket Rob used is a two piece which is easier to pop in than a one piece but then you have the fun of installing the lock strip. Fortunetely there is a simple tool for making that easier.

Cary

[48Rob]

Andrew,

The first one was, but then it got easier.

Getting the glass cut small enough to have just a little "extra" working room makes a big difference.
After cutting out the template, I set my dividers to just over a 1/4" and then trimmed that off too.
Lots of soap made a big difference between easy and hard.


I put off the window job for several months as I was intimidated by the lack of flexibility of the rubber channel, and the fact I'd never done it before.
After a while though, I got to wondering how I could build a tear, and all the other things I've ever built, and be afraid of a piece of rubber

In the end, I won!!

Took about an hour per window including prep, cleanup, and re hanging the blinds.

Rob

[Cary Winch]

Rob,

Bravo, those sure did turn out good though.

Cary

[greasywheats]

Thanks for the replies everyone (especially for 48Rob's post with Pics and Cary's input). Figuring out a front window was my last big task left, and everything here has been so helpful. Now I just hafta get it built. Thanks Again!!

[PaulC]

the beetle came to the US in 1949, was first made in 1945 in germany.

I may be wrong here but my history book shows the first "peoples car"(VW) was built in the 30's. As a side note, it was originally designed by Ferdinand Porsche. Same bloke who designed and built Porsche cars.
Cheers
Paul

[Kevin A]

the beetle came to the US in 1949, was first made in 1945 in germany.

I may be wrong here but my history book shows the first "peoples car"(VW) was built in the 30's. As a side note, it was originally designed by Ferdinand Porsche. Same bloke who designed and built Porsche cars.
Cheers
Paul

Right you are, Paul,
http://people.westminstercollege.edu/st ... istory.htm

[greasywheats]

Hey 48Rob- I am going to be doing a front window on my TD...Thanks for the instructions... I am going to get my gasket from Austin HW as well. I am looking at AS 1706 for a body panel 719" to .782". Is this the gasket you used? If so, do you have leftovers (I see they sell in 50' minimum rolls). If you have 10' extra, I would be interested in buying some from you if you have a bunch extra. This stuff isn't cheap! Let me know.
Thanks!

[Cary Winch]

Greasywheats,

Hey, by the way. Kind of off subject but we have a couple of units landing in the Portland area later this week. In case you are interested in looking at one of ours, at least to peek at front windows, I am sure one of the customers would let you see it. One is going right to Portland, the other to Seaside.

Cary