Floor overhang

[jandmz]

If I use 1/2 in plywood over 2x2 framing for the floor, would that type of structure hold up building a 5x9 on a 4x8 trailer frame?

It seems like it would be a robust enough design to handle a 6 inch overhang all around. I have an old popup that uses the 3/4in plywood floor as a structural member. It has a "X" frame with the plywood floor screwed to it, and the perimeter of the floor supports the sidewalls, the bed mechanisms and the roof with no other metal or wood framing.

It would seem that a framed floor could support a TD if lightweight wall construction was used.

Any experience with floor overhangs on an HF trailer?

[Toytaco2]

Here's a pic of mine that is 5'x9' by 5' tall on a 4x8 frame. I used 1/2 Baltic Birch with 2x2 framing just as you described. I don't have that many miles on it yet, but, it seems to be holding up just fine. I put 8" of the overhang on the rear.

Good Luck,

Mike

[Nobody]

Yep, it'll work with no problem! My TD is 60x114x52" on a 4x8' HF trailer. Current weight is around 1150-1250# & I'm unable to find ANY 'give' or 'flex' in either the chassis or trailer body. Even after being rear-ended last Labor Day weekend, doing considerable damage to the rear of my TD, the cabin & front 85% of the chassis show no racking/twisting - My walls are 'stick' built with 3/4" foam for insulation & rigidity; 1/4" oak ply interior, 1/8" luan exterior covered by .040" aluminum -

[jandmz]

Thank you for the advice.

That's the great thing about this forum. If you have an idea, somebody has probably already tried it...

[Min]

I already have a 4 X 8 utility trailer. I have built it in two components.

One is the frame, 3" channel with cross members. 4' x 8' platform. 3500 # torsion axle, mounted about 1/2 way on the platform.

The other is the utility box. Built the box with metal tabs that are clamped onto the frame, making the box removable.

I was thinking about doing the same with a 'tear' body. I would probably have to move the axle back a bit, for the balance? I would probably have an overhang, at the rear, of around 12". I would probably build with a sandwich/insulated floor and sandwich walls.

I am considering making an attempt at storage under the bed area, possibly this storage would be accessible from outside.

I have read many posts on this forum, and, it will probably be at least the fall before I get started. After all, summer is for fishing and camping.

Just one question, about doors.

There seems to be a number of designs with doors on both sides of the sleeping compartment. Any particular reason? Also, what is the reason for the rear entrance door on some of the 'standies'?

Thanks, Min

[bobhenry]

In my case a one word answer

BEER !



it's gotta go somewhere

[Min]

I like your answer Bob.

Probably is the reason that progress is sooooo slow!!!!!

[len19070]

I went 65" on a 4' frame w/no inside wheel wells...no problems.



Happy Trails

Len

[Min]

That little guy looks awesome Len.

Looks like 2X4 floor components?

Nice looking work on the aluminum exterior. Awning looks great also.

[starleen2]

How about 14" (each side of overhang with no support on the over hang with 5/8 plywood for a floor? Remember that the walls act as supporting beams on the sides and keep it from sagging down. No need for a supporting structure underneath the overhang if the plywood is thick enough
From the green lantern build: